How To Install MRT Hood Struts On 2010 & Up Ford Mustangs

MRT’s hood struts are one of the most useful mods you can do to your Ford Mustang. The stock prop rod is cheap & flimsy & doesn’t belong on a car like the Mustang. Many new luxury & performance cars come with hood strut systems from the factory, this simple mod will make opening your hood easier and quicker, a useful tool for those who work on their Mustangs on a regular basis. You can find this black MRT Hood Strut Kit on StangMods by clicking the following link: MRT Black Hood Strut Kit

For this install you will need a couple of tools. They are:  a 10mm socket wrench, razor cutter or scissors, flat head screwdriver, extra set of hands to help support the hood when adding the strut brackets.

Start by locating the fender bolt closest to the hood of the car, remove this 10mm bolt, place the lower bracket there & tighten it down. The RH side is the passenger side, LH is the drivers side. Each bracket in the kit is engraved with either RH or LH.

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After the lower brackets are in place it’s time to install the upper brackets. You may want to grab a friend to help with this step. Remove the upper 10mm bolt and LOOSTEN the lower one just enough to slide the braket under the head of the lower bolt. Reinstall the upper bolt once the lower part of the bracket is fastened by the lower bolt.

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Once the brackets on both sides of the hood/vehicle are installed and tightened, install the struts! You can now ditch the prop rod for good, you can even unbolt it’s bracket & throw it in the trash, up to you!

The steps above complete the install process on 05-09 Mustangs. If you have a 2010 and newer model you’ll need to modify the sound tube located on the driver’s side. This is required to give the hood strut clearance.

Start by removing the lower rubber bushing under the plastic bracket. There is a small metal guide for the bolt pressed through this bushing, you can remove it with a flathead screwdriver Do not throw this away as it will be reused. Once the rubber bracket has been removed, cut about half an inch out of the center of the rubber bushing as marked by the red lines in the photo below.

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After you’ve cut the bushing install everything backwards like shown below. The U clip that the bolt originally threaded into must be installed on the bottom of all of this.

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Once everything is lined up, bolt it down like shown below. All done!

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Now you have an attractive, useful mod that’ll give you more clearance while providing a nice visual upgrade . For more information on MRT’s Hood Strut Kits, follow this link: http://www.stangmods.com/MRT-Hood-Struts-05-13-Mustangs-p/00109.htm

Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel Spokes

In this write-up we will go over the simple installation of TruCarbon’s carbon fiber steering wheel trim. -Click Here To View In Our Store- The only tools you’ll need for this install are a deep 8mm socket & a flathead. Start by removing the two plastic covers on either side of the back of the steering wheel right before the steering column. A flathead screwdriver is the best way to pry out those covers. Under the covers you will see an 8mm bolt on either side. Remove both of these bolts and pull the airbag section from the wheel.

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Once you’ve pulled the center of the wheel out, remove the two wires by squeezing the clips holding them to the airbag.

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After the airbag is free from the steering wheel pull the first trim piece off of the wheel. use a flathead or your nails to pull toward you, the trim pieces are held in by four posts.

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Once the trim piece is free, unclip the buttons from the trim and insert them into the new carbon wheel spoke. Repeat the last steps for the other spoke & buttons.

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For the lower wheel spoke you’ll need a flathead to pry it off, be gentle & take your time.

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Reinstall the lower trim piece, the airbag, bolts, etc & you are done!

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Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber GT500 Style Rear Wing

If you’re looking for the ultimate in carbon fiber body accessories look no further than TruCarbon. TruFiber’s carbon fiber division is well known for making hoods, diffusers & other high quality carbon parts for the new Mustangs. We decided to install their GT500 style rear trunk wing on our project 2013 5.0 to match our carbon hood vents. The isntall was very straightforward & took about an hour using only a flat head screwdriver, a dremel, double sided tape & a 10mm socket.

Start by opening the trunk and removing the push pins holding the inner carpet liner tot he trunk lid.

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Once the inner liner is removed locate the two 10mm nuts on either side of the trunk lid holding the factory wing in place. Remove all four bolts (2 on each side) and set them aside, they will be re-used to fasten the new carbon wing.

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After removing the four bolts the next and most difficult step is removing the double sided tape from under the factory wing. The best way to loosen the adhesive is to use a heat gun & fishing line. Be careful with the factory wing when removing it, it’s made of brittle plastic and will break if pulled too hard. Take your time with this step. Once you get a foot or two up on one side the rest gets easier.

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Once the factory wing is removed clean off the old adhesive & make sure all surfaces are clean before installing the new double sided tape. We opted to use very little tape as the four bolts do a good enough job of holding the wing in place. Use just enough tape to keep the carbon wing from rubbing on the paint.

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We needed to widen one hole slightly to make the studs line up for the carbon wing. Being a hand made part every wing will be slightly different but other than this one small fix the part’s fitment is absolutely spot-on. We used a small dremel bit to make the one hole a few millimeters wider.

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Once the wing is in place, tighten the four nuts holding the wing to the trunk lid and you’re finished! The last finishing detail is the wing lip that fastens using double sided tape. Remove the protective backing from the adhesive and stick the lip in place.

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You can find all of our TruCarbon body components for 10-13 Mustangs on StangMods.com by clicking the following link – http://www.stangmods.com/Trucarbon-Mustang-Carbon-Fiber-s/688.htm.

Here are some images of the finished product

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The same GT500 wing can be found on StangMods through this link: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-DCA42KR-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Style-Wing-p/2780.htm

2005-2009 Mustang owners click here: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Wing-p/2885.htm

2010-2012 V6 Mustang Foglight Kit Installation

We teamed up with V6Mustangsonline to bring you this in depth installation article on Starkey Products V6 Mustang foglight kit.

Simple hand tools are required to perform the installation. Some wiring is required but nothing major. Follow along as we go over the complete installation process.

This is whats included in the kit. Step by step installation instructions are included for further reference.

Before starting, disconnect the negative battery terminal.

 

Now you’ll want to lift the car using a jack or ramps. This will make accessing the foglight area much easier.

 

Once the car is in the air you’ll want to remove the (9) 7MM screws holding the factory splash guard in place.

 

Next we will be removing the factory bumper bezels. Wrap a flathead screw driver in a soft cloth, and very carefully pry the plastic bezel inserts on the side closest to the center of the car. These are hooked in by plastic tabs, and take hardly any force to remove.

Bezel completely removed and ready for foglight installation.

 

Using a short flat head screw driver mount the fog lights from behind the bumper with the six included screws. Both fog lights are identical so it does not matter which side you mount them. Install the fog light with the electrical connector facing down, this will make it a lot easier when plugging in the harness later on.

 

Once your fog lights are mounted, go ahead and pop the new plastic bezels in that came with your kit.

 

Now you’ll want to focus your attention underhood for the necessary wiring. Remove the plastic radiator cover by pulling out the (8) plastic retainers as shown below.

 

Now locate the fusebox on the passenger side of the car and open it up. You will want to locate the 12 volt supply cable entering the box where the lid closes. Remove the nut holding the 12 volt supply in place.

 

Grab your wiring harness and locate the orange wire with the ring terminal at the end. Place this ring over the stud that you just removed the nut from, and reinstall the securing nut.

 

Remove the fuse in location 39 using a set of long nose pliers, and replace it with the supplied fuse with fuse tap attachment. Install this new fuse with the tap facing towards the drivers side of the car. On your wiring harness locate the red wire, and connect it to the just installed fuse tap. Run the wire out of the fuse box near the 12 volt supply cable so that you can close up your fuse box.

 

Locate the ground cable on the radiator support and attach the black cable from your wiring harness.

 

Take the rest of the wiring harness and route it on top of the radiator to the drivers side of the car. Try to follow the group of existing cables for a clean install when finished.

 

At this time run the wiring for each fog light down to the fog light locations and connect the fog light connectors to each fog light under the car. I also used some zip ties to secure the wires out of the way down there.

 

The next step it to run the control wires around the engine compartment and up to the firewall in front of the driver side of the vehicle. Locate the black rubber grommet in the driver side firewall between the fender and brake booster. Using a knife cut an “X” in the grommet to allow you to push the wires through.

 

On the inside of the car locate the headlamp switch. Using a flat head screw driver wrapped in a soft cloth gently pry out the top left side of the switch housing. ***Do not pry out the whole switch as the housing will be secured to the dash by a screw!***

 

Using your flat head screw driver wrapped in your cloth pry down the dash panel located just below the switch. On the bottom left hand corner of the switch is the small screw. Carefully remove this screw. Once you’ve removed it you can now pull the head light switch panel out of the dash and disconnect the wires.

 

Now release the three small tabs that secure the headlight switch to the housing and slide it out. Then simply slide the new one in its place.

 

Refer to the instructions that were included in your kit, and locate the wires in the factory harness that plugs into the back of the switch. Using one of the supplied red wire taps, close the tap around the wire and snap it shut. DO NOT CUT THE WIRE. I had to unwrap the covering from around the bundle of wires to access the individual wires. Connect the blue wire from the fog light harness to the connector you just installed. Locate the second wire listed in the instructions and connect the other wire tap to it. Connect the red wire from the harness to this connector.

 

Reconnect the factory wiring harness to the new switch you just installed. Reinstall the headlamp switch and panel into the dash. Make sure to replace the screw you removed earlier. Make sure that the dash panel under the switch is pressed back into place.

 

This completes the installation process. You now just need to reinstall the radiator cover and splash guard. Enjoy your new foglights and check out our site for upgraded H11 bulbs.

 

 

Installing Starkey Products Lower Valence Foglight Kit 2013 Mustang GT

The write up below goes over the installation process of Starkey Products lower valence foglight kit for all 2013 Mustang GTs. Our project car got some updated looks in the way of a Boss 302S grille a few weeks back. While we loved the factory LED foglamps, we’ve never been big fans of the upper grille mounted lamps. In removing the factory grille and LED foglamps for the Boss 302S grille we knew we’d eventually install foglights in the lower valence. The complete kit by Starkey Products makes the perfect upgrade for owners looking to do the same. Follow along as we go over the installation process and finished product.

Tools Required

  • Jack or vehicle ramps
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Plyers
  • Electrical tape
  • 7MM & 8MM Socket/Wrench

The hardest part of the installation process is removing the factory bezels. Removing your Mustang’s front bumper is not required but will make the job much easier. The first step was to get the car in the air so we had more working space. We started on the passenger side and placed the jack under the front control arm.

Once the car is in the air you’ll want to remove the undertray splash guard. There are (17) screws that need to be removed using the 7MM & 8MM socket. Once these screws have been removed the splash guard can be set aside. You now can gain access to the foglight area.

The bezels are held to the car with (5) tabs as shown below. These are fairly hard to remove and it will take some force to get them off the car. Take your time, start at the top and work your way down. It makes it easier to depress the tab as you are pulling on the bezel. Eventually it will come off.

Removing stock bezel by depressing 5 tabs shown with arrows. Top tab is hidden in picture.

Once you’ve removed the bezel the hard part is over. You are now left with an opening in your bumper that will be replaced with the new foglight/bracket.

Comparison shot of the factory bezel (left) vs. new foglight bezel to be installed.

The next step in the process is to install the new foglight bezel. Secure the new bezel to the car using the tabs. Push the bezel onto the tabs to lock it into place. You should hear it click to know when its secured. The kit includes (4) screws that secure the bezel onto the car. Install those using the flat head screwdriver or socket. On the passenger side, the windshield washer fluid reservoir makes things a little tight. Removing the bumper will avoid this problem but we chose to work around it as best as we could.


Once the new foglight bezel is installed you are ready to install the actual foglight and bracket. The process is very simple and is attached to the bezel using the supplied screws (4). There are two alignment pins as well. Line these up with the foglight/bracket and secure the screws. You are now done with the passenger side and can move over to the driver side foglight.

Foglight is shown installed in the new lower valence bezel. At this point you are half way done!

This completes the hardest part of the job. There is much more room to work with on the driver side and it will take less time to complete. You will need to repeat the process completed above on the driver side.

Now we are ready to make the necessary wiring connections to get power to our new foglights. Some of you maybe a bit apprehensive about doing any electrical/wiring work but trust us the next few steps are very simple and can be completed by anyone with limited wiring experience.

Power to your new foglights is taken from the OEM foglight harness. Included in the kit are quick splice taps which will allow you to get power to the new harness without cutting any of the factory wires. The first step you’ll need to do is remove the radiator cover which is held on with (8) plastic push pins.

Once the radiator cover is removed you’ll need to find the OEM foglight harness. Remove the electrical tape found near the plug and pull the black plastic wiring loom to uncover the wires going into the foglamp plug.  Do not cut the plug or any of these wires.

The passenger side foglamp harness with wire loom pulled back and wires exposed. We are getting ready to tap into the two wires on this foglamp plug.

There are (4) thin wires going into this plug. We will be tapping into the BROWN/YELLOW and BLACK/YELLOW wires only! The other two wires will remain untouched. Using the supplied quick splice connectors place them over the wires and use pliers to clamp the connector down. You should hear it click to know a solid connection is made.

Quick splice connectors shown installed on brown/yellow and black/yellow wire on factory foglamp plug.

We are now almost done with the wiring. Included in the foglight kit is two wiring harnesses with male spade connectors. Simply slide the male connectors into the ends of the quick splice connectors to complete the wiring portion of this job.

Included wiring harness is connected to quick splice connectors which were installed in previous step. This completes wiring portion of job.

This is optional but we chose to wrap the OEM foglamp plug in electrical tape to ensure no moisture gets inside the plug.

Factory plug covered with electrical tape will help keep moisture out of harness.

The final step in the installation process is to snake the wiring harness down to the foglight bulb. There are numerous openings that will allow you to pass the harness down to the foglight.  Once the end of the harness is passed down all you need to do is plug it into the new foglamp and you are done! You will need to repeat this process on the driver side.
Here are a couple of quick shots we took with our Starkey Products foglight kit and Go Green LED H11 foglamp bulbs installed. We love the aggressive look of the lower valence foglights!

Foglight kit installed with our Go Green H11 LED bulbs

Hawk Brake Pads – A Wide Range Of Compounds For All Types Of Drivers

Hawk is one of the biggest names in performance and OE replacement brake pads out there. Their superior quality to OE components makes them not only a smart buy for customers looking to replace their stock pads but also for those looking for more stopping power for spirited street driving or even track use. Hawk pads are used worldwide by weekend racers and professionals alike because of their great fitment, reliability & quality. Let’s take a look at the different pad compounds offered by Hawk & get a better understanding of each of their strengths.

Hawk Ceramic Brake Pads

Hawk’s Performance Ceramic Brake Pads are a perfect blend of improved performance with reduced brake dust and noise.  They provide consistent quiet, fast, smooth & clean stopping power for vehicles that are primarily driven on the streets. The Performance Ceramic pads feature a unique ceramic composite formulation specifically developed to meet the ultra-low dust and low noise attributes of Original Equipment ceramic brake pads while maintaining the high friction levels professional brake tuners have grown to expect from Hawk Performance. If you are looking for replacement pads that will give you more bite & less dust, look no further than Hawk’s Performance Ceramic pads.

Hawk HPS Brake Pads

The extremely popular Hawk HPS pads really offer the best of both worlds when it comes to brake pads. The HPS compound offers a significant improvement in braking power and feel while still retaining quiet operation and low dust. Hawk’s HPS Ferro-Carbon compound brake pads provide advanced braking characteristics to enhance the driving experience. This unique compound combines the safety and quality of aerospace design partnered with the braking technology of motorsports. If you tend to drive spiritedly on the streets and occasionally do heavy repeated braking or are looking for a big improvement over stock pads without the noise & dust associated with race pads, the HPS is the perfect pad for your Mustang.

Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads

The Hawk HP Plus is Hawk’s entry level racing brake pad. The HP Plus is perfect for autocrossers or occasional weekend track warriors looking for a no compromise pad that will work well with an upgraded rotor and other supporting brake mods. Because of the more aggressive compound, the HP Plus does create noise under some conditions however they are nowhere as noisy as a dedicated track pad. The HP Plus pads are usable on the street at a wider range of temperatures vs a more serious race compound. The Hawk Performance HP Plus Ferro-Carbon compound can take the heat at the track and get you home safely without having to change your brake pads in and out. This compound was designed for the serious street and autocross enthusiast.

Hawk Racing Blue Brake Pads

Hawk’s Racing Pads are no compromise all-out performance units designed to stand the heat, wear & abuse of repeated track use. Hawk offers a few lines of Racing Blue pads depending on how much torque or friction you are looking for depending on your application and use. These pads are not recommended for street use due to their noise levels and the fact that they require heat to produce high levels of friction required for racing. If your Mustang is built for the track and rarely sees the streets or you’re looking for a set of dedicated race pads to install for an event, any of the Racing Blue pads are sure to fit your needs.

You can find Hawk’s full line of Ford Mustang brake pads for all 1994 & up Mustangs on StangMods.com by clicking here: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Brake-Pads-from-StangMods-com-s/165.htm

K&N Performance Filters – Installing One In Your Mustang

Since adding K&N’s full line of intake products on our store – Click Here For Our Full Selection – we decided to give one of them a try on our 93 LX project car. We opted for a large filter unit that replaces the stock airbox and rubber piping. The install was very straight forward and took only a few hand tools. Install took no more than 45 minutes to complete.

K&N filters are special because of their high flow characteristics and their superior engine protection. By using an oiled element they are able to trap the most dirt and dust compared to a factory paper filter or a standard replacement filter. Not only do they flow and filter better, but they are completely re-usable and will last the life of your vehicle’s engine. By using K&N’s Filter Recharge Kit you can clean and re-oil your filter back to new. They recommend you clean your filter every 20,000 miles to ensure the best protection and performance. After several years and a hundred thousand miles, the K&N filters practically pay for themselves. You actually CAN save money while gaining performance, reliability & economy…who woulda thought? Now on to the install for foxbody Mustangs:
Tools Needed:

1/4″ Drill

12mm socket

11mm wrench

Flathead screwdriver

Start off by removing the two 12mm nuts that hold the factory airbox to the engine bay.

Next, remove the clamp below the MAF sensor using a flathead screwdriver.

Once the clamp is removed, pull the factory intake assembly out of the engine bay.

Once the airbox is removed, you will need to use your 1/4″ drill bit to slightly enlarge a hole for the K&N filter’s bracket mounting position.

Once the bracket bolt fits through the hole, fit the bracket in place and tighten it. You will have to reach under the bumper to tighten the nut from the bottom of the bolt.

Once the bracket is in place and is snug, it’s time to install the new filter. Get the filter in place and make sure the threads on the end of the filter fit inside the bracket. Tighten the 11mm nut on the end of the filter.

Next tighten the hose clamp at the filter opening to ensure there will be no air leakage.

That’s it! You’re done! Below are two photos comparing the factory intake and the new K&N filter.