Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel Spokes

In this write-up we will go over the simple installation of TruCarbon’s carbon fiber steering wheel trim. -Click Here To View In Our Store- The only tools you’ll need for this install are a deep 8mm socket & a flathead. Start by removing the two plastic covers on either side of the back of the steering wheel right before the steering column. A flathead screwdriver is the best way to pry out those covers. Under the covers you will see an 8mm bolt on either side. Remove both of these bolts and pull the airbag section from the wheel.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Once you’ve pulled the center of the wheel out, remove the two wires by squeezing the clips holding them to the airbag.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

After the airbag is free from the steering wheel pull the first trim piece off of the wheel. use a flathead or your nails to pull toward you, the trim pieces are held in by four posts.

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Once the trim piece is free, unclip the buttons from the trim and insert them into the new carbon wheel spoke. Repeat the last steps for the other spoke & buttons.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

For the lower wheel spoke you’ll need a flathead to pry it off, be gentle & take your time.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Reinstall the lower trim piece, the airbag, bolts, etc & you are done!

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber GT500 Style Rear Wing

If you’re looking for the ultimate in carbon fiber body accessories look no further than TruCarbon. TruFiber’s carbon fiber division is well known for making hoods, diffusers & other high quality carbon parts for the new Mustangs. We decided to install their GT500 style rear trunk wing on our project 2013 5.0 to match our carbon hood vents. The isntall was very straightforward & took about an hour using only a flat head screwdriver, a dremel, double sided tape & a 10mm socket.

Start by opening the trunk and removing the push pins holding the inner carpet liner tot he trunk lid.

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Once the inner liner is removed locate the two 10mm nuts on either side of the trunk lid holding the factory wing in place. Remove all four bolts (2 on each side) and set them aside, they will be re-used to fasten the new carbon wing.

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After removing the four bolts the next and most difficult step is removing the double sided tape from under the factory wing. The best way to loosen the adhesive is to use a heat gun & fishing line. Be careful with the factory wing when removing it, it’s made of brittle plastic and will break if pulled too hard. Take your time with this step. Once you get a foot or two up on one side the rest gets easier.

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Once the factory wing is removed clean off the old adhesive & make sure all surfaces are clean before installing the new double sided tape. We opted to use very little tape as the four bolts do a good enough job of holding the wing in place. Use just enough tape to keep the carbon wing from rubbing on the paint.

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We needed to widen one hole slightly to make the studs line up for the carbon wing. Being a hand made part every wing will be slightly different but other than this one small fix the part’s fitment is absolutely spot-on. We used a small dremel bit to make the one hole a few millimeters wider.

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Once the wing is in place, tighten the four nuts holding the wing to the trunk lid and you’re finished! The last finishing detail is the wing lip that fastens using double sided tape. Remove the protective backing from the adhesive and stick the lip in place.

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You can find all of our TruCarbon body components for 10-13 Mustangs on StangMods.com by clicking the following link – http://www.stangmods.com/Trucarbon-Mustang-Carbon-Fiber-s/688.htm.

Here are some images of the finished product

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The same GT500 wing can be found on StangMods through this link: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-DCA42KR-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Style-Wing-p/2780.htm

2005-2009 Mustang owners click here: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Wing-p/2885.htm

Installing A Billet Aluminum Shorty Antenna On Your 2010-2013 Mustang

Even though they improved the look of the antennas on 2010 and up Mustangs by moving it to the rear quarter panel, it’s still too tall and looks kinda silly on the Mustang’s new sleek body. We have an affordable solution that will improve the look of the antenna while retaining radio signal and functionality. Our 4″ billet aluminum antennas come with all hardware and tools needed for the installation. Install takes about 20 minutes. View our shorty antennas here: Shorty Antennas at Stangmods.com
Tools Needed:

Pliers (optional)

Start off by unscrewing the factory antenna, it should twist off easily.

After removing the stock antenna, use the included tool to unscrew the piece that holds the stock base to the car. Ours was too tight to remove by hand but came loose easily with a set of pliers.

Once the metal part that holds the stock base is removed, the base should come right off. You will be re-using this part to mount the new billet base so make sure not to misplace it.

Reinstall the new billet base and screw the factory metal piece in using the included tool to secure the base of the new antenna. Do not over tighten this, just enough so the base doesn’t move around. Over tightening could damage your paint.

Once the base is secured, screw one end of the threaded pin into the antenna itself. Once this is tight, install the upper base piece and screw the antenna in through the base. Make sure this is tight enough that the upper part of the base does not spin freely.

That’s it, all done! The install is a breeze and the shorty antenna looks much better than the factory mast. Thanks for reading! You can find this part on our store in either powdercoated black like the one shown here, brushed aluminum or chrome. This antenna will fit all 2010-2013 Mustangs.

Changing Out Your 2013 Mustang’s Hood Vents

One of the most exciting changes on the new 2013 Mustang line are the new hood vents that come standard on the GT & Boss 302 Mustangs. These fully functional vents allow the engine bay to run a bit cooler which in turn improve intake temps and ultimately improve power and efficiency. Plus, they look plain awesome. Changing the vents to black or any other color is a breeze since these vents are easily removed with a deep 8mm socket and by un-clipping them from the hood. Follow along below to see how it’s done in a few easy steps.

We sell the factory OEM Ford vents on our site unpainted, these are great for someone who wants to paint them a custom color themselves. You can find them here: http://www.stangmods.com/2013-Mustang-OEM-Hood-Vents-sold-in-pairs-p/2303.htm
Tools Needed:

8mm deep socket

Ratcheting socket wrench

Start by removing all of the clips holding the under-hood insulation on. Leave the bottom row attached, as you just need to remove enough to get to the bolts and clips holding the vents on.

Next, remove the 8mm nuts on the bottom of each vent. On the passenger side, remove the plastic clip holding the washer fluid line in place.

Once the nuts are removed, squeeze the clips on either side of the vents and push upwards, use your other hand to pull gently from the top side of the hood to free the vents from the hood itself. Do not use too much force, patience is key here.

Once the vents are free of all their clips, they will easily come free of the hood. Reinstalling the new vents is just the reverse of the steps above. Make sure you get all the clips snug when installing the new vents and remember to reinstall the 8mm nuts on the bottom of the vents as well as the washer line on the passenger side vent.

Here are photos of the factory painted vents and the new vents we installed (factory unpainted). In the next few weeks we will be posting new vent finishes including matte black and carbon fiber. Stay tuned!

Swapping Steering Wheel Buttons On 2010-2013 Mustangs

When installing a new performance steering wheel on your newer Mustang, you may need to retain some function on your factory wheel that your new wheel may not come with. For example, our project 2013 GT came with Sync, and our Boss 302 alcantara wheel didn’t have the correct buttons to retain this function on the new wheel. We decided to swap the buttons from the factory wheel on to the new Boss wheel, problem solved!

For this install you will need to remove wiring harnesses, remove the buttons from the steering wheels and swap them around. Doing this took about 30 minutes and a lot of patience. There are small parts and springs you must be careful not to lose track of.

Tools Needed:

Torx T27

Torx T20

Assuming you already have the airbag removed, (See this link for instructions on removing the airbag HERE) begin by removing the trim pieces surrounding the buttons on either side of the factory wheel. These trim parts are held on by plastic fasteners that seat in rubber behind the trim. Carefully pull them toward you with even pressure to ensure you don’t crack them. There are no clips or anything, just pull them with enough force and they will slowly come out. Once they are out, the buttons will come free.

Next, remove the tree T27 torx bolts that hold the horn bracket in place. This bracket has three springs on the backside of it, make sure you don’t lose these or your horn will not work. Once the three bolts are removed, pull the bracket and springs off. There is a red wire clipped to the top of the bracket, remove this and pull the bracket free from the wheel and set it aside with the springs and bolts.

Next, remove the single T20 torx bolt that grounds the wheel harness to the wheel itself as shown below. Once this is done, remove the harness and it’s two white clips.

Here is the factory Sync harness removed. Set this harness and it’s buttons aside and repeat the process above on the Boss 302 wheel, removing it’s harness and buttons.

Below are the buttons that come on the Boss 302 wheel, remove these and it’s harness and replace them with the harness and buttons from your factory wheel with Sync.

To install the new buttons, first reinstall the trim pieces that surround the buttons then snap them into place.

Once both side’s buttons are in, reinstall the harness, connect the black ground wire and it’s T20 torx bolt and plug the harness into the new buttons. Ensure everything is plugged in and solid before moving on to the next step.

Next, reinstall the horn bracket, ensure that the three springs are seated and are properly installed before putting the three T27 bolts back. Again, if these springs are not installed properly your horn will not work right.

Tighten the three black torx bolts and replace the red wire that clips to the horn bracket.

Next, reinstall the airbag unit, plug the wires in to their corresponding colors (grey or black) and press the airbag into the wheel. Replace the two 8mm bolts on either side of the wheel as well as their cover caps and you’re done! Reconnect the battery and ensure all your buttons work properly. Enjoy your new wheel!

To view to the full wheel install guide, click HERE

To find this Boss 302 steering wheel in our online store, click here: Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel for 2010-2013 Mustangs

Installing The Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel In 2010-2013 Mustangs

If you are looking for a change from the factory cheap rubber or leatherette steering wheel we have your solution. For under $300 you can own a real Boss 302 steering wheel with the plush alcantara covering and install it in any 2010-2013 Mustang! This is a real Ford part, the same wheel you will find on all 302s that roll off the production line. The install is pretty straight forward and takes about an hour and a half, uses simple tools and will make your Mustang feel like a race car every time you put your hands on the wheel.

Tools Required:

24mm socket

8mm socket

Socket extension

Optional Tools (If swapping buttons)

Torx 20

Torx 27

Start by removing the negative terminal on your Mustang’s battery. Give the car 20 minutes to fully drain the charge to ensure it’s safe to remove the airbag from the car. It’s unlikely the airbag could deploy, but it’s one of those situations where it’s way better to be safe than sorry.

Next, remove the two caps covering the 8mm bolts that hold the airbag unit in place.

Remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the wheel using a socket and ratcheting wrench.

After removing both 8mm bolts, carefully and slowly pull the center airbag unit straight out, be careful not to tug on the airbag’s harness when removing it.

Disconnect the large black plug (steering wheel harness) next to the yellow airbag wire.

Next, remove the clips carefully on the back of the airbag unit itself. The plugs are color coded to match their clips, one grey and one black.

Set the airbag unit aside in a safe place. Now that everything is disconnected, you can remove the 24mm bolt in the center of the wheel that holds the old wheel in place.

Once this bolt is removed, the wheel will come off, be sure to thread the wiring through the wheel when removing it to ensure you don’t break any clips or wires.

Now that the wheel is removed, check out these comparison photos of the factory wheel vs the Boss 302 wheel.

If your Mustang is a 2013 or comes with sync, you can swap the buttons from your factory wheel onto the new alcantara wheel so you don’t lose any functionality. You will have to remove the buttons and the wiring harness from the old wheel and swap it to the new wheel. To view that write up, follow this link:

How To Swap Sync Buttons To Your New Boss 302 Steering Wheel

Now all that’s left is to reinstall the new wheel in the same manner you removed the factory one. Start by bolting the wheel in with the 24mm bolt. Ford says to torque this bolt to no more than 45ft lbs, do not over tighten this bolt or it could strip out. Make sure to line up the wiring harness plugs through the top hole and pull the wires through as shown below.

Plug in the main black plug for the wheel harness and put the airbag clips in their respectable plugs. It’s very important to ensure you put the grey clip in the grey plug and the black clip[ in the black plug.

After everything is hooked up wiring wise, carefully reinstall the airbag unit in the wheel. Make sure the unit is lined up with the side bolt holes and reinstall the two 8mm bolts on either side. After making sure the bolts are snug (don’t over tighten) replace the bolt cover caps and you’re ready to go!

Now it’s time to enjoy your new Boss steering wheel! Reconnect the battery once you’ve double-checked all the wiring and bolts. Make sure all your buttons are working properly. Enjoy!

To find this wheel for sale on our online store, click the following link: Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel for 10-13 Ford Mustangs

Installing An Axle-Back Exhaust On The 2011-2013 Ford Mustang GT

For our second modification on our new project car we decided to try out Borla’s Atak axle-back exhaust system. Borla is one of the biggest names in domestic performance exhaust and it’s easy to see why when looking at the build quality and fit & finish on their systems. Their sturdy, lightweight construction is superb, and more importantly, the sound they produce is nothing short of stellar. Being an axle-back system we were expecting a mild sound, however this system really screams. Not in a bad way though, it really suits the new 5.0 very well. There is no rasp whatsoever, just a deep, powerful tone that screams Mustang 5 liter power! Even better than the sound when you’re on the throttle is the gurgling and popping you get when decelerating in gear. This axle-back is perfect for someone looking for a nice grunt on throttle, an aggressive deceleration pop and gurgle and when you’re just cruising around it’s very composed. Nothing that will annoy your neighbors or Johnny Law. Now on to the install guide. It took us about 2 hours to do the install with the car on jack stands. Please note that this guide is based on the new 2013 Mustang and the process may slightly differ from 2011 and 2012 GTs.

Tools Required:

13mm Socket

Socket Extension

Ratcheting Socket Wrench

The first step is to jack up the rear of the car and secure the rear of the car on jack stands. Never work under a car with a floor jack, always be sure to use jack stands and shake the car to make sure it’s safe to work under it.

After the car is safely in the air, the first bolt to remove is the bolt on the exhaust clamp that holds on the rear mufflers. This clamp will be re-used on the new axle-back system so be sure not to damage it. Once you remove the clamp bolt, be sure to retain all the factory hardware and set it aside so it can be used when installing the clamp on the new system. The clamp is welded to the stock system by a small tab that we will remove when the muffler is off the car.

Next, remove the muffler hangar from just behind the rear bumper.

Next, there are two bolts holding the hangars at the rear of the muffler tot he underside of the car. This bracket must be removed from the car and re-used on the new system. The image below shows the location of the 13mm bolts that hold the bracket to the underside of the Mustang.

Be sure to support the muffler when removing this bracket, once it is remove the mufflers will drop from under the car. We learned this the hard way! The photo below shows the passenger side muffler removed with the hangar bracket attached.

Follow the same steps on the driver’s side muffler. Remove the clamp hardware first and then the hangar right behind the rear bumper.

The driver’s side muffler has a slightly different hangar design, instead of using two 13mm bolts it uses three. After removing the three bolts in the locations shown below, the muffler will drop from under the car.

Below is a comparison of the stock muffler next to Borla’s Atak axle-back muffler. Notice how much smaller the Borla muffler is and the larger tip. It’s a fantastic looking system that fills the rear opening better as well as saves weight over the stock mufflers.

Now that both mufflers have been removed, it’s time to transfer the necessary hardware to install the new system. First remove the factory clamps from the stock mufflers. They are welded on by thin metal tabs. We simply moved them back and forth (sort of like breaking a paper-clip) until they broke free from the tabs.

The next step is to remove the hangar brackets and install them on the new mufflers. Make sure you install them in the correct orientation or the exhaust won’t bolt up properly.

Now you’re ready to bolt the new system under the car. Start by slipping the new hangar into the hangar bushing behind the rear bumper. After that’s in, bolt the hangar bracket at the back of the muffler to the underside of the car just as you removed it. Once all the hangars are in, simply reinstall the factory clamp and tighten it to complete the installation. Make sure the clamp is on straight to avoid an exhaust leak.

Repeat these steps for both sides and you’re done! Now it’s time to enjoy the new sound! The photos below show how the Borla Atak mufflers look from behind. Great fit and finish for an aftermarket system.

In conclusion, we definitely recommend replacing the rear mufflers on the new 5.0. From the factory they already sound good, but in order to really give the car that signature Mustang sound you can’t go wrong with an axle-back system. Not only are they affordable, they don’t make the car too loud. If you’re looking for something low key that will still turn heads, look great, not void your warranty and please your ears, you can’t go wrong with the Borla Atak axle-back system for the 2011-2013 5.0. You can find this system on our store by clicking the following link: Borla Atak Axle-Back Exhaust System for 2011-2013 GT & Boss 302