Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel Spokes

In this write-up we will go over the simple installation of TruCarbon’s carbon fiber steering wheel trim. -Click Here To View In Our Store- The only tools you’ll need for this install are a deep 8mm socket & a flathead. Start by removing the two plastic covers on either side of the back of the steering wheel right before the steering column. A flathead screwdriver is the best way to pry out those covers. Under the covers you will see an 8mm bolt on either side. Remove both of these bolts and pull the airbag section from the wheel.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Once you’ve pulled the center of the wheel out, remove the two wires by squeezing the clips holding them to the airbag.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

After the airbag is free from the steering wheel pull the first trim piece off of the wheel. use a flathead or your nails to pull toward you, the trim pieces are held in by four posts.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Once the trim piece is free, unclip the buttons from the trim and insert them into the new carbon wheel spoke. Repeat the last steps for the other spoke & buttons.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

For the lower wheel spoke you’ll need a flathead to pry it off, be gentle & take your time.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Reinstall the lower trim piece, the airbag, bolts, etc & you are done!

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber GT500 Style Rear Wing

If you’re looking for the ultimate in carbon fiber body accessories look no further than TruCarbon. TruFiber’s carbon fiber division is well known for making hoods, diffusers & other high quality carbon parts for the new Mustangs. We decided to install their GT500 style rear trunk wing on our project 2013 5.0 to match our carbon hood vents. The isntall was very straightforward & took about an hour using only a flat head screwdriver, a dremel, double sided tape & a 10mm socket.

Start by opening the trunk and removing the push pins holding the inner carpet liner tot he trunk lid.

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Once the inner liner is removed locate the two 10mm nuts on either side of the trunk lid holding the factory wing in place. Remove all four bolts (2 on each side) and set them aside, they will be re-used to fasten the new carbon wing.

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After removing the four bolts the next and most difficult step is removing the double sided tape from under the factory wing. The best way to loosen the adhesive is to use a heat gun & fishing line. Be careful with the factory wing when removing it, it’s made of brittle plastic and will break if pulled too hard. Take your time with this step. Once you get a foot or two up on one side the rest gets easier.

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Once the factory wing is removed clean off the old adhesive & make sure all surfaces are clean before installing the new double sided tape. We opted to use very little tape as the four bolts do a good enough job of holding the wing in place. Use just enough tape to keep the carbon wing from rubbing on the paint.

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We needed to widen one hole slightly to make the studs line up for the carbon wing. Being a hand made part every wing will be slightly different but other than this one small fix the part’s fitment is absolutely spot-on. We used a small dremel bit to make the one hole a few millimeters wider.

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Once the wing is in place, tighten the four nuts holding the wing to the trunk lid and you’re finished! The last finishing detail is the wing lip that fastens using double sided tape. Remove the protective backing from the adhesive and stick the lip in place.

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You can find all of our TruCarbon body components for 10-13 Mustangs on StangMods.com by clicking the following link – http://www.stangmods.com/Trucarbon-Mustang-Carbon-Fiber-s/688.htm.

Here are some images of the finished product

tru-carbon-mustang-gt500-wing

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carbon-fiber-gt500-wing

tru-carbon-gt500-wing

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gt500-wing-carbon-fiber

The same GT500 wing can be found on StangMods through this link: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-DCA42KR-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Style-Wing-p/2780.htm

2005-2009 Mustang owners click here: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Wing-p/2885.htm

2010-2012 V6 Mustang Foglight Kit Installation

We teamed up with V6Mustangsonline to bring you this in depth installation article on Starkey Products V6 Mustang foglight kit.

Simple hand tools are required to perform the installation. Some wiring is required but nothing major. Follow along as we go over the complete installation process.

This is whats included in the kit. Step by step installation instructions are included for further reference.

Before starting, disconnect the negative battery terminal.

 

Now you’ll want to lift the car using a jack or ramps. This will make accessing the foglight area much easier.

 

Once the car is in the air you’ll want to remove the (9) 7MM screws holding the factory splash guard in place.

 

Next we will be removing the factory bumper bezels. Wrap a flathead screw driver in a soft cloth, and very carefully pry the plastic bezel inserts on the side closest to the center of the car. These are hooked in by plastic tabs, and take hardly any force to remove.

Bezel completely removed and ready for foglight installation.

 

Using a short flat head screw driver mount the fog lights from behind the bumper with the six included screws. Both fog lights are identical so it does not matter which side you mount them. Install the fog light with the electrical connector facing down, this will make it a lot easier when plugging in the harness later on.

 

Once your fog lights are mounted, go ahead and pop the new plastic bezels in that came with your kit.

 

Now you’ll want to focus your attention underhood for the necessary wiring. Remove the plastic radiator cover by pulling out the (8) plastic retainers as shown below.

 

Now locate the fusebox on the passenger side of the car and open it up. You will want to locate the 12 volt supply cable entering the box where the lid closes. Remove the nut holding the 12 volt supply in place.

 

Grab your wiring harness and locate the orange wire with the ring terminal at the end. Place this ring over the stud that you just removed the nut from, and reinstall the securing nut.

 

Remove the fuse in location 39 using a set of long nose pliers, and replace it with the supplied fuse with fuse tap attachment. Install this new fuse with the tap facing towards the drivers side of the car. On your wiring harness locate the red wire, and connect it to the just installed fuse tap. Run the wire out of the fuse box near the 12 volt supply cable so that you can close up your fuse box.

 

Locate the ground cable on the radiator support and attach the black cable from your wiring harness.

 

Take the rest of the wiring harness and route it on top of the radiator to the drivers side of the car. Try to follow the group of existing cables for a clean install when finished.

 

At this time run the wiring for each fog light down to the fog light locations and connect the fog light connectors to each fog light under the car. I also used some zip ties to secure the wires out of the way down there.

 

The next step it to run the control wires around the engine compartment and up to the firewall in front of the driver side of the vehicle. Locate the black rubber grommet in the driver side firewall between the fender and brake booster. Using a knife cut an “X” in the grommet to allow you to push the wires through.

 

On the inside of the car locate the headlamp switch. Using a flat head screw driver wrapped in a soft cloth gently pry out the top left side of the switch housing. ***Do not pry out the whole switch as the housing will be secured to the dash by a screw!***

 

Using your flat head screw driver wrapped in your cloth pry down the dash panel located just below the switch. On the bottom left hand corner of the switch is the small screw. Carefully remove this screw. Once you’ve removed it you can now pull the head light switch panel out of the dash and disconnect the wires.

 

Now release the three small tabs that secure the headlight switch to the housing and slide it out. Then simply slide the new one in its place.

 

Refer to the instructions that were included in your kit, and locate the wires in the factory harness that plugs into the back of the switch. Using one of the supplied red wire taps, close the tap around the wire and snap it shut. DO NOT CUT THE WIRE. I had to unwrap the covering from around the bundle of wires to access the individual wires. Connect the blue wire from the fog light harness to the connector you just installed. Locate the second wire listed in the instructions and connect the other wire tap to it. Connect the red wire from the harness to this connector.

 

Reconnect the factory wiring harness to the new switch you just installed. Reinstall the headlamp switch and panel into the dash. Make sure to replace the screw you removed earlier. Make sure that the dash panel under the switch is pressed back into place.

 

This completes the installation process. You now just need to reinstall the radiator cover and splash guard. Enjoy your new foglights and check out our site for upgraded H11 bulbs.

 

 

Installing Starkey Products Lower Valence Foglight Kit 2013 Mustang GT

The write up below goes over the installation process of Starkey Products lower valence foglight kit for all 2013 Mustang GTs. Our project car got some updated looks in the way of a Boss 302S grille a few weeks back. While we loved the factory LED foglamps, we’ve never been big fans of the upper grille mounted lamps. In removing the factory grille and LED foglamps for the Boss 302S grille we knew we’d eventually install foglights in the lower valence. The complete kit by Starkey Products makes the perfect upgrade for owners looking to do the same. Follow along as we go over the installation process and finished product.

Tools Required

  • Jack or vehicle ramps
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Plyers
  • Electrical tape
  • 7MM & 8MM Socket/Wrench

The hardest part of the installation process is removing the factory bezels. Removing your Mustang’s front bumper is not required but will make the job much easier. The first step was to get the car in the air so we had more working space. We started on the passenger side and placed the jack under the front control arm.

Once the car is in the air you’ll want to remove the undertray splash guard. There are (17) screws that need to be removed using the 7MM & 8MM socket. Once these screws have been removed the splash guard can be set aside. You now can gain access to the foglight area.

The bezels are held to the car with (5) tabs as shown below. These are fairly hard to remove and it will take some force to get them off the car. Take your time, start at the top and work your way down. It makes it easier to depress the tab as you are pulling on the bezel. Eventually it will come off.

Removing stock bezel by depressing 5 tabs shown with arrows. Top tab is hidden in picture.

Once you’ve removed the bezel the hard part is over. You are now left with an opening in your bumper that will be replaced with the new foglight/bracket.

Comparison shot of the factory bezel (left) vs. new foglight bezel to be installed.

The next step in the process is to install the new foglight bezel. Secure the new bezel to the car using the tabs. Push the bezel onto the tabs to lock it into place. You should hear it click to know when its secured. The kit includes (4) screws that secure the bezel onto the car. Install those using the flat head screwdriver or socket. On the passenger side, the windshield washer fluid reservoir makes things a little tight. Removing the bumper will avoid this problem but we chose to work around it as best as we could.


Once the new foglight bezel is installed you are ready to install the actual foglight and bracket. The process is very simple and is attached to the bezel using the supplied screws (4). There are two alignment pins as well. Line these up with the foglight/bracket and secure the screws. You are now done with the passenger side and can move over to the driver side foglight.

Foglight is shown installed in the new lower valence bezel. At this point you are half way done!

This completes the hardest part of the job. There is much more room to work with on the driver side and it will take less time to complete. You will need to repeat the process completed above on the driver side.

Now we are ready to make the necessary wiring connections to get power to our new foglights. Some of you maybe a bit apprehensive about doing any electrical/wiring work but trust us the next few steps are very simple and can be completed by anyone with limited wiring experience.

Power to your new foglights is taken from the OEM foglight harness. Included in the kit are quick splice taps which will allow you to get power to the new harness without cutting any of the factory wires. The first step you’ll need to do is remove the radiator cover which is held on with (8) plastic push pins.

Once the radiator cover is removed you’ll need to find the OEM foglight harness. Remove the electrical tape found near the plug and pull the black plastic wiring loom to uncover the wires going into the foglamp plug.  Do not cut the plug or any of these wires.

The passenger side foglamp harness with wire loom pulled back and wires exposed. We are getting ready to tap into the two wires on this foglamp plug.

There are (4) thin wires going into this plug. We will be tapping into the BROWN/YELLOW and BLACK/YELLOW wires only! The other two wires will remain untouched. Using the supplied quick splice connectors place them over the wires and use pliers to clamp the connector down. You should hear it click to know a solid connection is made.

Quick splice connectors shown installed on brown/yellow and black/yellow wire on factory foglamp plug.

We are now almost done with the wiring. Included in the foglight kit is two wiring harnesses with male spade connectors. Simply slide the male connectors into the ends of the quick splice connectors to complete the wiring portion of this job.

Included wiring harness is connected to quick splice connectors which were installed in previous step. This completes wiring portion of job.

This is optional but we chose to wrap the OEM foglamp plug in electrical tape to ensure no moisture gets inside the plug.

Factory plug covered with electrical tape will help keep moisture out of harness.

The final step in the installation process is to snake the wiring harness down to the foglight bulb. There are numerous openings that will allow you to pass the harness down to the foglight.  Once the end of the harness is passed down all you need to do is plug it into the new foglamp and you are done! You will need to repeat this process on the driver side.
Here are a couple of quick shots we took with our Starkey Products foglight kit and Go Green LED H11 foglamp bulbs installed. We love the aggressive look of the lower valence foglights!

Foglight kit installed with our Go Green H11 LED bulbs

Installing A Billet Aluminum Shorty Antenna On Your 2010-2013 Mustang

Even though they improved the look of the antennas on 2010 and up Mustangs by moving it to the rear quarter panel, it’s still too tall and looks kinda silly on the Mustang’s new sleek body. We have an affordable solution that will improve the look of the antenna while retaining radio signal and functionality. Our 4″ billet aluminum antennas come with all hardware and tools needed for the installation. Install takes about 20 minutes. View our shorty antennas here: Shorty Antennas at Stangmods.com
Tools Needed:

Pliers (optional)

Start off by unscrewing the factory antenna, it should twist off easily.

After removing the stock antenna, use the included tool to unscrew the piece that holds the stock base to the car. Ours was too tight to remove by hand but came loose easily with a set of pliers.

Once the metal part that holds the stock base is removed, the base should come right off. You will be re-using this part to mount the new billet base so make sure not to misplace it.

Reinstall the new billet base and screw the factory metal piece in using the included tool to secure the base of the new antenna. Do not over tighten this, just enough so the base doesn’t move around. Over tightening could damage your paint.

Once the base is secured, screw one end of the threaded pin into the antenna itself. Once this is tight, install the upper base piece and screw the antenna in through the base. Make sure this is tight enough that the upper part of the base does not spin freely.

That’s it, all done! The install is a breeze and the shorty antenna looks much better than the factory mast. Thanks for reading! You can find this part on our store in either powdercoated black like the one shown here, brushed aluminum or chrome. This antenna will fit all 2010-2013 Mustangs.

Changing Out Your 2013 Mustang’s Hood Vents

One of the most exciting changes on the new 2013 Mustang line are the new hood vents that come standard on the GT & Boss 302 Mustangs. These fully functional vents allow the engine bay to run a bit cooler which in turn improve intake temps and ultimately improve power and efficiency. Plus, they look plain awesome. Changing the vents to black or any other color is a breeze since these vents are easily removed with a deep 8mm socket and by un-clipping them from the hood. Follow along below to see how it’s done in a few easy steps.

We sell the factory OEM Ford vents on our site unpainted, these are great for someone who wants to paint them a custom color themselves. You can find them here: http://www.stangmods.com/2013-Mustang-OEM-Hood-Vents-sold-in-pairs-p/2303.htm
Tools Needed:

8mm deep socket

Ratcheting socket wrench

Start by removing all of the clips holding the under-hood insulation on. Leave the bottom row attached, as you just need to remove enough to get to the bolts and clips holding the vents on.

Next, remove the 8mm nuts on the bottom of each vent. On the passenger side, remove the plastic clip holding the washer fluid line in place.

Once the nuts are removed, squeeze the clips on either side of the vents and push upwards, use your other hand to pull gently from the top side of the hood to free the vents from the hood itself. Do not use too much force, patience is key here.

Once the vents are free of all their clips, they will easily come free of the hood. Reinstalling the new vents is just the reverse of the steps above. Make sure you get all the clips snug when installing the new vents and remember to reinstall the 8mm nuts on the bottom of the vents as well as the washer line on the passenger side vent.

Here are photos of the factory painted vents and the new vents we installed (factory unpainted). In the next few weeks we will be posting new vent finishes including matte black and carbon fiber. Stay tuned!

Swapping Steering Wheel Buttons On 2010-2013 Mustangs

When installing a new performance steering wheel on your newer Mustang, you may need to retain some function on your factory wheel that your new wheel may not come with. For example, our project 2013 GT came with Sync, and our Boss 302 alcantara wheel didn’t have the correct buttons to retain this function on the new wheel. We decided to swap the buttons from the factory wheel on to the new Boss wheel, problem solved!

For this install you will need to remove wiring harnesses, remove the buttons from the steering wheels and swap them around. Doing this took about 30 minutes and a lot of patience. There are small parts and springs you must be careful not to lose track of.

Tools Needed:

Torx T27

Torx T20

Assuming you already have the airbag removed, (See this link for instructions on removing the airbag HERE) begin by removing the trim pieces surrounding the buttons on either side of the factory wheel. These trim parts are held on by plastic fasteners that seat in rubber behind the trim. Carefully pull them toward you with even pressure to ensure you don’t crack them. There are no clips or anything, just pull them with enough force and they will slowly come out. Once they are out, the buttons will come free.

Next, remove the tree T27 torx bolts that hold the horn bracket in place. This bracket has three springs on the backside of it, make sure you don’t lose these or your horn will not work. Once the three bolts are removed, pull the bracket and springs off. There is a red wire clipped to the top of the bracket, remove this and pull the bracket free from the wheel and set it aside with the springs and bolts.

Next, remove the single T20 torx bolt that grounds the wheel harness to the wheel itself as shown below. Once this is done, remove the harness and it’s two white clips.

Here is the factory Sync harness removed. Set this harness and it’s buttons aside and repeat the process above on the Boss 302 wheel, removing it’s harness and buttons.

Below are the buttons that come on the Boss 302 wheel, remove these and it’s harness and replace them with the harness and buttons from your factory wheel with Sync.

To install the new buttons, first reinstall the trim pieces that surround the buttons then snap them into place.

Once both side’s buttons are in, reinstall the harness, connect the black ground wire and it’s T20 torx bolt and plug the harness into the new buttons. Ensure everything is plugged in and solid before moving on to the next step.

Next, reinstall the horn bracket, ensure that the three springs are seated and are properly installed before putting the three T27 bolts back. Again, if these springs are not installed properly your horn will not work right.

Tighten the three black torx bolts and replace the red wire that clips to the horn bracket.

Next, reinstall the airbag unit, plug the wires in to their corresponding colors (grey or black) and press the airbag into the wheel. Replace the two 8mm bolts on either side of the wheel as well as their cover caps and you’re done! Reconnect the battery and ensure all your buttons work properly. Enjoy your new wheel!

To view to the full wheel install guide, click HERE

To find this Boss 302 steering wheel in our online store, click here: Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel for 2010-2013 Mustangs