2010-2012 V6 Mustang Foglight Kit Installation

We teamed up with V6Mustangsonline to bring you this in depth installation article on Starkey Products V6 Mustang foglight kit.

Simple hand tools are required to perform the installation. Some wiring is required but nothing major. Follow along as we go over the complete installation process.

This is whats included in the kit. Step by step installation instructions are included for further reference.

Before starting, disconnect the negative battery terminal.


Now you’ll want to lift the car using a jack or ramps. This will make accessing the foglight area much easier.


Once the car is in the air you’ll want to remove the (9) 7MM screws holding the factory splash guard in place.


Next we will be removing the factory bumper bezels. Wrap a flathead screw driver in a soft cloth, and very carefully pry the plastic bezel inserts on the side closest to the center of the car. These are hooked in by plastic tabs, and take hardly any force to remove.

Bezel completely removed and ready for foglight installation.


Using a short flat head screw driver mount the fog lights from behind the bumper with the six included screws. Both fog lights are identical so it does not matter which side you mount them. Install the fog light with the electrical connector facing down, this will make it a lot easier when plugging in the harness later on.


Once your fog lights are mounted, go ahead and pop the new plastic bezels in that came with your kit.


Now you’ll want to focus your attention underhood for the necessary wiring. Remove the plastic radiator cover by pulling out the (8) plastic retainers as shown below.


Now locate the fusebox on the passenger side of the car and open it up. You will want to locate the 12 volt supply cable entering the box where the lid closes. Remove the nut holding the 12 volt supply in place.


Grab your wiring harness and locate the orange wire with the ring terminal at the end. Place this ring over the stud that you just removed the nut from, and reinstall the securing nut.


Remove the fuse in location 39 using a set of long nose pliers, and replace it with the supplied fuse with fuse tap attachment. Install this new fuse with the tap facing towards the drivers side of the car. On your wiring harness locate the red wire, and connect it to the just installed fuse tap. Run the wire out of the fuse box near the 12 volt supply cable so that you can close up your fuse box.


Locate the ground cable on the radiator support and attach the black cable from your wiring harness.


Take the rest of the wiring harness and route it on top of the radiator to the drivers side of the car. Try to follow the group of existing cables for a clean install when finished.


At this time run the wiring for each fog light down to the fog light locations and connect the fog light connectors to each fog light under the car. I also used some zip ties to secure the wires out of the way down there.


The next step it to run the control wires around the engine compartment and up to the firewall in front of the driver side of the vehicle. Locate the black rubber grommet in the driver side firewall between the fender and brake booster. Using a knife cut an “X” in the grommet to allow you to push the wires through.


On the inside of the car locate the headlamp switch. Using a flat head screw driver wrapped in a soft cloth gently pry out the top left side of the switch housing. ***Do not pry out the whole switch as the housing will be secured to the dash by a screw!***


Using your flat head screw driver wrapped in your cloth pry down the dash panel located just below the switch. On the bottom left hand corner of the switch is the small screw. Carefully remove this screw. Once you’ve removed it you can now pull the head light switch panel out of the dash and disconnect the wires.


Now release the three small tabs that secure the headlight switch to the housing and slide it out. Then simply slide the new one in its place.


Refer to the instructions that were included in your kit, and locate the wires in the factory harness that plugs into the back of the switch. Using one of the supplied red wire taps, close the tap around the wire and snap it shut. DO NOT CUT THE WIRE. I had to unwrap the covering from around the bundle of wires to access the individual wires. Connect the blue wire from the fog light harness to the connector you just installed. Locate the second wire listed in the instructions and connect the other wire tap to it. Connect the red wire from the harness to this connector.


Reconnect the factory wiring harness to the new switch you just installed. Reinstall the headlamp switch and panel into the dash. Make sure to replace the screw you removed earlier. Make sure that the dash panel under the switch is pressed back into place.


This completes the installation process. You now just need to reinstall the radiator cover and splash guard. Enjoy your new foglights and check out our site for upgraded H11 bulbs.



Installing Starkey Products Lower Valence Foglight Kit 2013 Mustang GT

The write up below goes over the installation process of Starkey Products lower valence foglight kit for all 2013 Mustang GTs. Our project car got some updated looks in the way of a Boss 302S grille a few weeks back. While we loved the factory LED foglamps, we’ve never been big fans of the upper grille mounted lamps. In removing the factory grille and LED foglamps for the Boss 302S grille we knew we’d eventually install foglights in the lower valence. The complete kit by Starkey Products makes the perfect upgrade for owners looking to do the same. Follow along as we go over the installation process and finished product.

Tools Required

  • Jack or vehicle ramps
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Plyers
  • Electrical tape
  • 7MM & 8MM Socket/Wrench

The hardest part of the installation process is removing the factory bezels. Removing your Mustang’s front bumper is not required but will make the job much easier. The first step was to get the car in the air so we had more working space. We started on the passenger side and placed the jack under the front control arm.

Once the car is in the air you’ll want to remove the undertray splash guard. There are (17) screws that need to be removed using the 7MM & 8MM socket. Once these screws have been removed the splash guard can be set aside. You now can gain access to the foglight area.

The bezels are held to the car with (5) tabs as shown below. These are fairly hard to remove and it will take some force to get them off the car. Take your time, start at the top and work your way down. It makes it easier to depress the tab as you are pulling on the bezel. Eventually it will come off.

Removing stock bezel by depressing 5 tabs shown with arrows. Top tab is hidden in picture.

Once you’ve removed the bezel the hard part is over. You are now left with an opening in your bumper that will be replaced with the new foglight/bracket.

Comparison shot of the factory bezel (left) vs. new foglight bezel to be installed.

The next step in the process is to install the new foglight bezel. Secure the new bezel to the car using the tabs. Push the bezel onto the tabs to lock it into place. You should hear it click to know when its secured. The kit includes (4) screws that secure the bezel onto the car. Install those using the flat head screwdriver or socket. On the passenger side, the windshield washer fluid reservoir makes things a little tight. Removing the bumper will avoid this problem but we chose to work around it as best as we could.

Once the new foglight bezel is installed you are ready to install the actual foglight and bracket. The process is very simple and is attached to the bezel using the supplied screws (4). There are two alignment pins as well. Line these up with the foglight/bracket and secure the screws. You are now done with the passenger side and can move over to the driver side foglight.

Foglight is shown installed in the new lower valence bezel. At this point you are half way done!

This completes the hardest part of the job. There is much more room to work with on the driver side and it will take less time to complete. You will need to repeat the process completed above on the driver side.

Now we are ready to make the necessary wiring connections to get power to our new foglights. Some of you maybe a bit apprehensive about doing any electrical/wiring work but trust us the next few steps are very simple and can be completed by anyone with limited wiring experience.

Power to your new foglights is taken from the OEM foglight harness. Included in the kit are quick splice taps which will allow you to get power to the new harness without cutting any of the factory wires. The first step you’ll need to do is remove the radiator cover which is held on with (8) plastic push pins.

Once the radiator cover is removed you’ll need to find the OEM foglight harness. Remove the electrical tape found near the plug and pull the black plastic wiring loom to uncover the wires going into the foglamp plug.  Do not cut the plug or any of these wires.

The passenger side foglamp harness with wire loom pulled back and wires exposed. We are getting ready to tap into the two wires on this foglamp plug.

There are (4) thin wires going into this plug. We will be tapping into the BROWN/YELLOW and BLACK/YELLOW wires only! The other two wires will remain untouched. Using the supplied quick splice connectors place them over the wires and use pliers to clamp the connector down. You should hear it click to know a solid connection is made.

Quick splice connectors shown installed on brown/yellow and black/yellow wire on factory foglamp plug.

We are now almost done with the wiring. Included in the foglight kit is two wiring harnesses with male spade connectors. Simply slide the male connectors into the ends of the quick splice connectors to complete the wiring portion of this job.

Included wiring harness is connected to quick splice connectors which were installed in previous step. This completes wiring portion of job.

This is optional but we chose to wrap the OEM foglamp plug in electrical tape to ensure no moisture gets inside the plug.

Factory plug covered with electrical tape will help keep moisture out of harness.

The final step in the installation process is to snake the wiring harness down to the foglight bulb. There are numerous openings that will allow you to pass the harness down to the foglight.  Once the end of the harness is passed down all you need to do is plug it into the new foglamp and you are done! You will need to repeat this process on the driver side.
Here are a couple of quick shots we took with our Starkey Products foglight kit and Go Green LED H11 foglamp bulbs installed. We love the aggressive look of the lower valence foglights!

Foglight kit installed with our Go Green H11 LED bulbs

Installing A 3rd Brake Light Pulser In Your 2010-2013 Ford Mustang

The first mod we did on our new 2013 GT project car was Webelectric’s plug-in 3rd brake light pulser for 10′-13′ Ford Mustangs. This is an extremely easy and fast install for those of you who aren’t really comfortable taking things apart. Simply remove the trunk lid liner and plug the small harness in. Simple as that! You can find the part on our store by following this link:  Webelectric Brake Light Pulser for 10′-13′ Mustangs

Tools Needed:

Flathead screwdriver

First step is to remove the trunk lid’s felt liner. This liner is held on by a bunch of plastic clips, use the flathead to remove the clips gently as these will be used to replace the liner when the install finished.

After removing all the plastic clips, this is what you should see. Be sure to pull the emergency trunk release through the liner’s opening.

Next, remove the plug that powers the 3rd brake light.

Clip the pulser harness into the car’s plugs. You’re done!

Before reinstalling the inner trunk liner it’s a good idea to have someone put their foot on the brake to ensure the pulser is working properly. After you’re sure it’s working as intended, reinstall the trunk liner and the clips holding it on. Simple as that!

Below is an animation of how the pulser works. Please note that the light will only flash if you’ve been off the brakes for over 15 seconds as to not distract drivers in stop and go traffic or at a light.

Installing Reverse Glow Gauges in 99-04 Ford Mustangs

The white face reverse glow gauges are a popular item for 94-09 Mustangs. Follow along as we install a set courtesy of Stack Racing.

Tools Required:

  • T15 Torx Head and Driver
  • Drill and metal bit
  • Soldering gun or Quick Splice Connectors
  • Thin Allen Wrench or Paper Clip

First you’ll want to disconnect your battery by removing the negative terminal first and then the positive side. It is a good idea to disconnect your battery whenever you are working on your Mustang’s electronics. Wait 15 minutes after disconnecting your battery before you being the install.

Remove the headlight knob to the left of the steering wheel. Pull the knob out in the “lights on” position and rotate the knob counter-clockwise until the slit is facing towards the driver’s side door. Inside the slit is a metal clip. Using a thin object (allen wrench works great), release the clip by gently lifting the clip outward towards the driver’s side door. While you do this, pull firmly on the headlight knob. This should release the knob and it should slide right off.

Now, remove the two screws holding the dash panel to the dash with the T15 torx bit and driver. Once removed, the entire panel can be taken out by firmly pulling straight out. This will release the clips and pins which also secure it in place. The torx screws are shown circled in red below.

We will be removing the gauge cluster from the dash. Begin by removing the (4) T15 torx screws which secure the cluster to the dash. Once you remove the screws, gently pull the cluster away but do not completely remove. There are two electrical plugs that need to be disconnected before you can remove the gauge cluster from the vehicle. The torx screws which need to be removed are circled in red below.

The two connectors which need to be unplugged are shown circled in red below.

Using the T15 torx bit and driver, remove the (8) Torx screws holding the clear lens onto the gauge cluster. Once all are removed, gently remove the clear lens.

Now we will begin installing the new white face gauges. The great thing about our design is you do not need to remove your needles for installation! Start with the fuel and temperature gauge section and slip the insert over the existing gauges as shown below. You can then move onto the other sections. Take your time and be careful with the needles so that they are not accidently broken.

Once the new white face gauges are in place, reassemble the gauge cluster unit by reinstalling the clear lens and replacing the (8) torx screws which held it on. Finally, the hard part is over! Next, we’ll be wiring up your new white face gauges.

We will be wiring the gauges to the headlight control unit. First, remove the headlight control unit by removing the two metric hex bolts shown circled below. Once removed, gently slide the unit out. The harness attached to the headlight control unit is shown below. You want to connect the red (positive) wire coming from the invertor included with your new gauges to the large gray wire that is located on the headlight control unit harness. Attach the black wire coming from the invertor to any good ground source. You can choose to drill a small hole in the chassis and attach the ground wire with an O ring terminal or you can tap into the black wire located on the headlight control unit harness (simplest way).

We are almost done at this point. Attach the clips coming from your new gauges to the clips on the new gauge harness. There maybe some extras but its not a big deal. This is a good time to test your electrical connections. You will need to plug the harnesses going into the gauge cluster back in and then reattach the positive and negative connections on your battery. Turn your lights on and hopefully your new white face gauges come to life!

Once everything checks out, you’ll finish the install by reversing the initial steps gone over at the beginning of this guide. Thats all there is to it! In under an hour, you can totally transform the cockpit of your Mustang.

Write up courtesy of StackRacing. You can purchase your white face reverse glow gauges at StangMods.com. The direct link to each specific model gauge is below:

1999-2004 Mustang GT Gauges

1999-2004 Mustang V6 Gauges

1996-1998 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1995 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1998 Mustang V6 Gauges

Fabricating HIDs Into 1999-2004 Non-Halo Projector Headlamps

In this write-up, we go over the process of fabricating an HID kit into a Non-Halo Projector headlight for 1999-2004 Mustangs. The install is very similar to the Dual Halo Projector + HID write up we did earlier. It is important to note that the Non-Halo Projectors in this write up use an H3 bulb while the Dual Halo Projectors use an H1 bulb.


Tools Required

  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Dremel Tool with Circular Bit
  • Adhesive Sealant

Your first step in fabricating the projector housings is to remove the cover off the back of the headlamps. This is done by removing the five phillips head screws as shown circled below.

Once you’ve removed the five screws, the cover will pop right off and the picture below shows exactly what your left with. You’ll need to remove the black ground wire and stock halogen bulb (both circled in red) to prepare the housing for the new HID bulb and wiring.

Give the black wire a gentle tug and it will come loose. The bulb has to be removed from the housing by releasing the metal clip holding it in place. Depress the metal clip and the bulb will come free. Once you have the bulb free from the housing, you want to remove it from the blue power wire. This is done by taking your needle nose pliers and gently opening the female connector as shown below. Just a slight opening will allow you to remove the bulb.

Now, you are left with one blue power wire and one black ground wire as shown below. The HID bulb is now ready to be installed into the projector.

Insert the bulb in the projector and secure it by re-installing the metal clip. Please note,  the bulb fits into the housing correctly only one way. You should not have to force the bulb for it fit. This is what the headlamp looks like with the HID bulb installed.

At this point, we are almost done. Now you need to create an opening in the cover that you removed in the first step. This is required for the HID wires to pass through. Take the cover and measure 2″ from the top and 3/4″ from the right side exactly as shown in the picture below. Mark the intersection of these two locations. This is where you will need to create your opening. Please note, we are measuring from the top where the three screw tabs are located. If you accidentally take your measurements from the bottom side, then your opening will be in the wrong location.

We are using a 300 series dremel to make quick work of the opening. Notice the bit we are using.

You want to create an opening that is roughly the diameter of a quarter. It does not need to be pretty or perfectly circular. Your main concern is creating the opening in the right location. Use the dremel tool at a moderate speed and take your time.

Once you’ve got your hole cut and you’ve verified its large enough, pass the two wires coming off of the HID bulb and the blue power and black ground wire from the headlamp through the opening and re-attach the cover using the five phillips head screws you took off in the first step.

Use the adhesive sealant to seal up the opening in the cover. Be generous with the material and overlap the edges to create an air tight seal.

Your final step in the fabrication process is to connect the power and ground wires from the headlamp and HID harness. Take the red wire with male connector from the HID harness and plug it into the blue wire with female connector coming from the headlamp. Next, take the black wire with male connector coming from the HID harness and plug it into the black wire with female connector coming from the headlamp. The connections are shown below.

Pull the silicone sheathing over the connections to avoid contact between the power and ground wires as shown below.

Follow the same procedure outlined above for the other headlamp and your fabrication will be complete. The last step is to obviously install them in your Mustang! Here is the projector on our workbench with a 10K HID bulb installed.

How To Install Map Light/Dome Bulbs in 2005-2012 Mustangs

This installment of writeups goes over the installation of LED dome light bulbs on the 2005-2009 Mustangs.

Tools Required:

  • None

You first want to remove the cover to access the dome bulbs. Simply grasp the cover firmly and pull down.

Next, use your thumb or a thin point and depress the tab holding the harness to the grey connector. Once you release the tab, gently pull the dome bulb cover away.

Take the assembly to a clean work area to prepare the installation of the new bulbs. There are two separate bulbs in the housing. Remove the bulbs by pulling them straight out.

Now, remove the stock bulbs and re-install your new LED bulbs. Once this is done, you are now ready to re-install the dome housing back into the vehicle. Remember to plug the grey connector back in the harness. Finally, line up the tabs on the dome housing as shown below.

Check to make sure your lights work and that completes the installation. Now you have a brighter light to help make things easier to see inside your Stang!

You can find our LED map light/dome bulbs by clicking the following links: White LED Map/Dome BulbsBlue LED Map/Dome Bulbs

Installing 05-09 Mustang Turn Signal Bulbs & Lenses

In this edition of writeups, we go over the installation process of adding front turn signals to your 2005-2009 Mustang. Installation can be done without even lifting the car in the air.

  • Tools Required:
    Phillips Screwdriver

If you begin with the driver’s side, you’ll want to turn the wheel all the way over to the passenger side to gain access to the screws holding the inner fenderwell on. Remove them using a phillips head screwdriver along with the one push pin.

Once all three screws are removed, you can peel back the inner fenderwell and gain access to the turn signal lens behind the bumper cover. Now you’ll work on removing the stock turn signal lens. There are two white pins holding the turn signal to the bumper cover. Squeeze one pin at a time and gently pull the lens away to release it from the bumper.

Now, you’ll want to remove the stock bulbs from the turn signal lens before completely removing it from the vehicle. There are two separate bulbs in the lens. (3157 and 194 bulb) Grasp each bulb and turn it counter-clockwise to free it from the housing. The lens should be free now. Remove it from underneath the bumper. It helps to have an extra set of hands here

We are now ready to re-install the new turn signal lens. You first want to find the tab behind the bumper cover. This will help you guide the new turn signal lens into place. The tab is shown below.

Slide the new lens in through the opening in the fenderwell. Align the tab on the new lens with the slot on the bumper cover as shown below.

Secure the other end of the lens with the white pins as shown below.

One of the last steps is to install the new 3157 and 194 Chrome-Amber Bulbs. Using latex gloves, remove the stock bulbs and re-install the chrome amber ones. Then place them in the housing and turn them clock wise to secure them in the new lens. It is important to not touch the glass portion of the bulb with your exposed fingers. The oils from your skin can prematurely wear out the bulb. Once your bulbs are in, turn on your turn signals to ensure they work.

Finally, re-install the inner fenderwell screws to complete your installation. Now you can enjoy the clear look while staying DOT legal. The different turn signal lens and bulb packages can be found on our site here: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Clear-Turn-Signal-Lenses-Side-Markers-s/157.htm