Dual Beam Bixenon HID Install Guide for 10′-13′ Mustangs

If you have a 2010 to 2012 Mustang that lacks the factory HID option you can add your own HIDs that look and perform a lot like the factory offering for a fraction of the price. In this how-to we will be installing the StangMods Dual Beam Bixenon HID Headlights in color temperature 6000K. Before we get into the actual instructions, we want to point out that these headlights are tinted and the tint will change the light output. If yours are not tinted the finished product will be brighter. Let’s get on with the install!

The first thing you need to do is pop the hood and get some light on your ride so you can see into the dark recesses under the hood. This car has an aftermarket radiator cover on it so yours may look different from this example. This is the first step though before going on to the next. Remove the battery cables from the battery since you are working with the cars electrical system. Take all safety precautions when working with any live electrical system.

Once you have the hood popped and enough light you start by removing the radiator cover so you can access the headlights under the hood. Removing the cover is easy and all you need to do is pull up on the black pushpins that lock the cover in place.

Once the radiator cover is removed, you can start by laying out the wiring harness that comes with the HID kit. The main power connector for the kit is designed to connect to the fuse block under the hood. Pop the cover on the fuse block and the large black nut where the power cable from the battery connects needs to be removed. You can then put the round ended power wire for the HID kit onto the stud, put the nut on, and tighten it back down. That is all you need to do for power to the HIDs.

The other wire you need to connect to get power for the HID headlights is the ground. We used the fender bolt near the passenger side headlight circled in red in the first photo below. We also routed the wire over to the other side of the car for the driver’s headlight at this point. Just lay the cable across the car being sure it won’t get pinched when you put the radiator cover back on later. You can see the black cable snaking across the radiator support in the second pic below, this pic was with the grill removed for the install of HID foglights.

Once you get the cable laid out. You will be able to see behind the headlights and as you can tell, it’s very tight back there. The orange plug you see here directly to the left of the windshield fluid reservoir is actually the blinker so don’t confuse it with the headlight which is a black and further down and more to the wheel well side of the car. If you find the fit is too tight for you to work you can remove the headlights to get better access, but that is not something we wanted to get into. To remove the factory headlight bulb from the headlight housing you give the large lock nut securing the bulb into the housing a twist and the bulb will pull out easily. The passenger side bulb comes out the same way and there is a bit more room on that side making it easier to see and work on the passenger side.

The factory headlight bulb has a grey end and a black lock nut, you can see what it looks like below with the top image being the factory set up and the image right underneath the StangMods HID bulb. You remove the actual connector from the factory bulb from the wiring harness of the car; you don’t just remove the factory bulb and plug the HID bulb in. The second picture below is the gray headlight harness plug with the factory bulb removed and the third pic is the HID bulb housing.  The StangMods HID kit has two pigtail wires running from the new HID bulb and housing that you will plug into the ballast. It’s important to note at this point that all of the ballasts are the same with this kit and you can just grab any one of them and use them for either side headlight or fog light. WARNING: DO NOT touch the glass surface of the HID bulb when installing. Doing so can cause premature bulb failure.

The pigtails that come off the HID bulb housing are keyed with connectors that will not allow you to hook them to the wrong plug on the ballast. As you can see in this shot, the passenger side headlight has a black and a red wire running from the HID bulb housing that connect to the white and blue wires running from the ballast. The HID pigtail will only plug into these two wires so you can’t get this wrong. The driver’s side connects the exact same way.

The wiring harness has a connector that connects to the ballast and while the ballast connection isn’t keyed, the connector on the ballast has a + and – mark and the wires that plug in are read for positive and black for negative making connection very simple. The factory headlight harness only plugs in on the passenger side to the HID harness. The plug for connection is easy to find and the factory headlight harness will only plug in one way. The driver side factory headlight harness isn’t needed. We taped ours up with electrical tape to keep it dry and wire tied it out of the way. If the headlights are all you are doing after you get all the connections made you can hide the ballasts and you are done.

Congratulations! You have installed your HID upgrade. Time to enjoy the increased light output and stylish color only HIDs can offer. Below is a photo of the kit working.

You can find our huge selection of HID conversion packages by clicking the following link: StangMods HID Lighting Store

Author: stangmods

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1 comment on “Dual Beam Bixenon HID Install Guide for 10′-13′ Mustangs

  1. Pingback: Installing StangMods HID Foglight Conversion On 2010-2012 Mustang GTs « - Official StangMods Blog -

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