Replacing Your 05-09 Mustang’s Rear License Plate Bulb

In this writeup we go over the installation of a license plate bulb on any 2005-2009 Ford Mustang. StangMods carries not only standard halogen replacement bulbs but also high output LED bulbs in HID white and blue. You can find our selection of exterior bulbs here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Exterior-Bulbs-from-StangMods-com-s/106.htm

The only tool required for this install is a flat head screwdriver. This tool will be used to remove the fasteners holding the license plate bulb cover in place. First locate the two push pins holding the bulb cover in place. Using your flat head screwdriver, gently pull them out as shown below.

Once the pins are removed, grasp the cover as shown below and gently pull down. Do not use much force as the cover will be held to the vehicle with a wiring harness.

 

The stock bulb is attached to the grey harness. Give it a half turn counter-clockwise to release the harness and bulb from the cover.

To complete the installation, remove the stock bulb and re-install the new LED into the harness and then back into the cover. Finish up by re-attaching the two push pins you removed in step 1. Thats all there is to it. This rather simple mod really livens up an otherwise overlooked area of your ride!

You can purchase your LED license plate bulbs and replacement bulbs from StangMods.com

Dual Beam Bixenon HID Install Guide for 10′-13′ Mustangs

If you have a 2010 to 2012 Mustang that lacks the factory HID option you can add your own HIDs that look and perform a lot like the factory offering for a fraction of the price. In this how-to we will be installing the StangMods Dual Beam Bixenon HID Headlights in color temperature 6000K. Before we get into the actual instructions, we want to point out that these headlights are tinted and the tint will change the light output. If yours are not tinted the finished product will be brighter. Let’s get on with the install!

The first thing you need to do is pop the hood and get some light on your ride so you can see into the dark recesses under the hood. This car has an aftermarket radiator cover on it so yours may look different from this example. This is the first step though before going on to the next. Remove the battery cables from the battery since you are working with the cars electrical system. Take all safety precautions when working with any live electrical system.

Once you have the hood popped and enough light you start by removing the radiator cover so you can access the headlights under the hood. Removing the cover is easy and all you need to do is pull up on the black pushpins that lock the cover in place.

Once the radiator cover is removed, you can start by laying out the wiring harness that comes with the HID kit. The main power connector for the kit is designed to connect to the fuse block under the hood. Pop the cover on the fuse block and the large black nut where the power cable from the battery connects needs to be removed. You can then put the round ended power wire for the HID kit onto the stud, put the nut on, and tighten it back down. That is all you need to do for power to the HIDs.

The other wire you need to connect to get power for the HID headlights is the ground. We used the fender bolt near the passenger side headlight circled in red in the first photo below. We also routed the wire over to the other side of the car for the driver’s headlight at this point. Just lay the cable across the car being sure it won’t get pinched when you put the radiator cover back on later. You can see the black cable snaking across the radiator support in the second pic below, this pic was with the grill removed for the install of HID foglights.

Once you get the cable laid out. You will be able to see behind the headlights and as you can tell, it’s very tight back there. The orange plug you see here directly to the left of the windshield fluid reservoir is actually the blinker so don’t confuse it with the headlight which is a black and further down and more to the wheel well side of the car. If you find the fit is too tight for you to work you can remove the headlights to get better access, but that is not something we wanted to get into. To remove the factory headlight bulb from the headlight housing you give the large lock nut securing the bulb into the housing a twist and the bulb will pull out easily. The passenger side bulb comes out the same way and there is a bit more room on that side making it easier to see and work on the passenger side.

The factory headlight bulb has a grey end and a black lock nut, you can see what it looks like below with the top image being the factory set up and the image right underneath the StangMods HID bulb. You remove the actual connector from the factory bulb from the wiring harness of the car; you don’t just remove the factory bulb and plug the HID bulb in. The second picture below is the gray headlight harness plug with the factory bulb removed and the third pic is the HID bulb housing.  The StangMods HID kit has two pigtail wires running from the new HID bulb and housing that you will plug into the ballast. It’s important to note at this point that all of the ballasts are the same with this kit and you can just grab any one of them and use them for either side headlight or fog light. WARNING: DO NOT touch the glass surface of the HID bulb when installing. Doing so can cause premature bulb failure.

The pigtails that come off the HID bulb housing are keyed with connectors that will not allow you to hook them to the wrong plug on the ballast. As you can see in this shot, the passenger side headlight has a black and a red wire running from the HID bulb housing that connect to the white and blue wires running from the ballast. The HID pigtail will only plug into these two wires so you can’t get this wrong. The driver’s side connects the exact same way.

The wiring harness has a connector that connects to the ballast and while the ballast connection isn’t keyed, the connector on the ballast has a + and – mark and the wires that plug in are read for positive and black for negative making connection very simple. The factory headlight harness only plugs in on the passenger side to the HID harness. The plug for connection is easy to find and the factory headlight harness will only plug in one way. The driver side factory headlight harness isn’t needed. We taped ours up with electrical tape to keep it dry and wire tied it out of the way. If the headlights are all you are doing after you get all the connections made you can hide the ballasts and you are done.

Congratulations! You have installed your HID upgrade. Time to enjoy the increased light output and stylish color only HIDs can offer. Below is a photo of the kit working.

You can find our huge selection of HID conversion packages by clicking the following link: StangMods HID Lighting Store

Installing Webelectric’s 05′-09′ Mustang Plug-In Sequential Turn Signals

In this writeup we will go over the installation process of our very popular 2005-2009 Mustang Plug in Sequntial kit. Installation is very simple and requires only a couple of basic tools.

Tools Required:

  • 7/16″ Deep Socket
  • Flat head screw driver

First you’ll want to remove the black trim panel from inside the trunk area. Start by removing the twist off screw and push pin as circled below. Use the flat head screw driver to gently pry out the push pin. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.

Next use your flat head screw driver and remove the two push pins as shown below. Again, gently pry out the pins to avoid any damage.

Take your 7/16 deep socket and remove the three nuts located on the inside of the trunk as shown below. These nuts hold the tail lamp onto the vehicle.

Once you’ve removed all three nuts, you are ready to remove the tail lamp and harness from the vehicle. Depress the tab on the grey harness plug and separate the connectors.

Now, gently pull the tail lamp away from the body of the vehicle and work the harness grommet out of its location using the flat head screwdriver as shown below. Once its free, pull the entire tail lamp and harness completely out.

With the tail lamp out from the vehicle, place it on a flat work bench and begin removing the light sockets by turning them counter-clockwise. You must also remove the socket for the reverse lamp. Finally, the harness is attached to the tail lamp with a white push pin. Remove it gently and free the harness from the tail light.

At this point we are almost done with the first side. Pull the bulbs out of the OEM harness and plug them back into the sequential harness. Before you re-install the new sequential harness, it is important to note the correct position. Each socket is pre-labeled with the numbers 1,2,3. Socket 1 should be installed in the inner most lens, socket 2 in the middle lens, and socket 3 on the outermost lens.

The orientation for the driver’s side tail lamp is shown below:

The orientation for the passenger side tail lamp is shown below:

The new sequential harness contains the white push pin. Remember to place it back in to secure the harness to the tail lamp.

To finish up the installation, re-route the harness with the grey connector through the body of the vehicle and plug it back in. Then, secure the black grommet and re-install the tail lamp. Re-attach the (3) bolts holding the tail lamp to the vehicle. Once you have completed the installation on the opposite side, place the black trim piece in place and re-attach the plastic push pins to complete your installation.

Now you can dazzle everyone when you flick your signals on with this unique product from StangMods.com

How To Apply StangMods’ Vinyl Tail Light Tint Overlays

This write-up goes over the process of smoking out your tail lights with vinyl overlays. After attempting to use the “spray-on” tint, we found the vinyl overlays to be a much easier and better looking method to adding some style to the rear of your Mustang. Not only do vinyl overlays look better and offer a non-permanent way to tint your lights, our heavy-duty thick vinyl tint protects your lenses from scratches, rocks and clouding. It is important to note that the instructions below are the same regardless of which model year lenses you are applying the vinyl to.

Tools Required:

  • Spray bottle with warm water and three drops of liquid soap.
  • Squeege for installation (included with tints)
  • Windex or rubbing alcohol
  • Paper Towels

 

First off, you’ll want to thoroughly clean the surface of the lens in which you are applying the tint to. We recommend using rubbing alcohol or windex. Make sure each lens is clean and dry before attempting to install vinyl overlays.

Next, peel off the paper backing from the tint. Be careful not to touch the adhesive side with any foreign surface. Grease from your fingers or dust can cause bubbling.

Now generously spray the soapy/water solution onto the adhesive side of the tint film and the lens you are working on.

Once both surfaces are wet, align the tint overlay on the lens you are working on. If the film slides freely, there is too much solution. Wait for it to dry out for a few minutes.

Once you have the optimum amount of solution and the film is where you want it on the lens, use the provided squeege to smooth the film over the lens you are working on. Start at the center of the lens and move outwards with the squeege. The goal is to remove as much solution from underneath the film. If the tint becomes misaligned, you may peel it up and re-apply it.

Finish your installation by installing the remaining tint pieces for each lens and thats all there is to it! If you are looking for vinyl Mustang tail light tint, check out StangMods’ huge selection of vinyl overlays for Mustangs of all years by clicking the link below.

Vinyl Tint Overlays at StangMods.com

 

How To Install MRT’s Mustang Hood Strut Kits

In this write-up we go over the installation process of MRT’s hood strut kit. The paper instructions provided with the kit are helpful, but the black and white pictures are difficult to decifer. While installation is fairly straightforward, it is important to take notice of the orientation of each bracket. The pictures in the write-up aim to make the whole process a little easier.

Tools Needed:

  • 10mm Socket Wrench

The first step is to remove the bolt on the fender using your 10MM socket. There are two bolts in the same vicinity. Remove only the bolt that is circled below.

Keep in mind that we are working on the passenger side of the vehicle. Also, you should work on only one side of the vehicle at a time. Take the small bracket labeled RH and install it where you removed the bolt in the previous step. The correct orientation of the bracket will have the ball pointing in towards the engine bay.

Now, we will be removing the bolt holding the hood onto the stock hood hinge. Again, there are two bolts in close quarters. Remove only the bulb that is shown circled below.

Next, loosen the bolt (DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETELY) directly beneath the one you just removed in the previous step. We have it pointed out in the picture below.

Here we show the bolt loosened just enough to prepare for the installation of another bracket.

Now take the longer bracket also labeled RH (since we are working on the passenger side) and slide the open end down under the bottom bolt that was loosened in the previous step. You’ll want to line up the bracket before bolting it in place. Ensure that the top hole on the bracket is lined up with the hole on the hinge.

Once everything is lined up, re-install the top bolt but do not overtighten. This will fully secure the new long bracket to your hood. Take note of the orientation of the long bracket. The ball should be facing outwards as shown below.

You are now 99% complete done with the passenger side and you can repeat the steps above for the driver side. Remember that you are installing the brackets correctly when the ball on the small bracket faces in towards the engine bay and the ball on the long bracket faces out away from the vehicle.

Once you have the driver’s side brackets in place, you will be installing the struts to complete the installation. Starting on either side, attach the thinner portion of the strut to the lower bracket. You simply have to snap the open end onto the ball. Then, lift up the hood with your hand so that you can attach the thicker end of the strut onto the hood hinge bracket as shown below. Again, you just have to snap the open end of the strut onto the ball. Repeat the process on the other side and you are done!

The MRT hood struts will not only do away with the ugly hood prop rod, but you will also gain valuable working space underneath the hood of your Stang! You can purchase your hood struts by following the link at:  http://www.stangmods.com/MRT-Hood-Strut-Kit-p/00654.htm

Installing Ford’s Locking Gas Cap for 94-09 Mustangs

In this write-up we go over the simple installation process of adding a locking gas cap to your 1994-2009 Ford Mustang. Protect your car from gas thieves and pranksters with this simple, inexpensive modification. This install is very simple and straight forward. The only tool needed is a pair of pliers, total install time is less than 15 minutes.

Begin the install process by removing the OEM gas cap which is held onto the fuel door with a push pin. Take your needle nose pliers and gently pull out the push pin as shown below.

Once you have the factory gas cap freed, simply unscrew the cap as you normally would. The new gas cap is attached to the fuel door in the same manner as the OEM one. Simply take the push pin and use your finger to re-insert it into the hole on the fuel door as shown below.

Once the push pin is in, put the gas cap on and turn it clockwise until you hear it lock and you are done! IMPORTANT: It’s a good idea to keep a spare key inside your car as well as one on your keychain so you’ll be able to unlock the cap when you get to the gas station.

Thank you for taking the time to view our blog. If you are in the market for a locking gas cap look no further than StangMods.com. Everything ships free and customer satisfaction is our highest priority. You can find our selection of Ford locking gas caps here: Locking Gas Caps for 94-09 Mustangs

Installing HIDs in Your 2010+ Mustang Projector Headlamps

Welcome Mustang owners and fans! Its no secret we are known for our unique and innovative lighting selection. In this blog post we bring you a detailed write up on how to install an HID kit in your 2010+ projector headlamps. We’ve been fabricating HIDs inside of projector housings for a few years now and we are excited to share this information for anyone looking to do the same. Lets get started!

Tools/materials required:

  • Electrical tape
  • Sealant tape
  • Exacto knife or blade

Step 1. You’ll want to remove the rubber cover from the back of the headlamp. This will expose the projector bulb area.

Step 2. Un plug the small connector from the bulb as shown below. Then turn the bulb counter clockwise and remove it from the housing.

Step 3. Remove the thin red and black leads from the grommet on the HID bulb. Gently pull them through and set them aside for step 4. Now install the new HID bulb in the projector housing. There are three notches in the bulb. Line those up with the notches in the projector housing and then turn counter clockwise. It is important that the bulb is tightened all of the way and is secure.

Step 4. Now we will be connecting the red and black wire leads that you removed from the HID’s bulb grommet in step 3 to the small plug you removed from the bulb in step 2. The small plug has a red and black wire going into it. Connect the leads as shown below. The process in this step provides power to the HID bulb.

Notice the red lead is connected to the slot where the other red wire comes into the plug. The other slot (ground) is where the black lead connects to.

Step 5. Use electrical tape to secure the power connections you made in step 4.

Step 6.

You’ll want to create a small opening in the back of the rubber headlamp cover so you can pass the new HID wires and connections through. You can use an exacto knife or dremel tool to knock this step out fairly quickly. Once the opening has been made, pass the two wires coming off the HID bulb and the wires coming off the plug through. The small power plug does not need to be passed through. There is enough room under the headlamp cover for this connection to remain. Use the rubber sealant to close the opening. Finally slide the rubber grommet on the HID bulb down to create a tight seal.

This completes the fabrication portion of the HIDs. Now you’ll need to connect the three leads to your ballast and plug in the OEM headlamp harness to the harness coming off the new projector headlamp. Any questions please feel free to email me: matt@stangmods.com.