Installing StangMods HID Foglight Conversion On 2010-2012 Mustang GTs

In this write-up, we go over the process of installing StangMods’ HID foglight kit in your 2010-2011 Mustang GT. We’ve gone over the write up for the headlight kit which can be found HERE.

The fog kit needs no wiring harness and uses the factory wiring harness plugs to get power to the ballasts. As you can see with the grill installed there is very little space behind the grill. It’s not possible to do this install without removing the grill. Removing the grill is the most difficult part of installing this HID kit. You have to remove two bolts that hold the grill on and then pop the grill loose from the retailing tabs all around the grill. Take care to not scratch your paint during the removal process.

Once the grill is removed, you can access the bulbs easily. You need to twist and remove the factory bulbs from the housing of the fogs and then install the HID bulbs into the housing by pressing them into the opening and twisting to lock. The HID bulbs again have a black and red wire coming off for connecting to the ballast.

Once you have the bulbs installed, you are ready to install the ballasts for your fog lights and connect the wires. The factory connector to the fog light plug connects to one of the connectors running off the ballast. This is the only confusing part of the install. The factory harness for each of the fogs has two different colored wires. On each side, the power wire is different color than the ground wire is. You have to be sure that the ground wire of the factory plug is aligned with the side of the HID harness that has the black ground wire. In my case, the ground wire was a grayish color with a yellow stripe. If you hook this backwards, the HID fog lights will not work. Be sure you test the fogs to ensure they work before you reinstall the grill.

The installation for both the right and left fog lights is the exact same. All of the connectors except the one where the factory fog light harness plugs in that I just mentioned are keyed. The other wiring connections can’t be installed wrong. Once you get the ballasts hooked up and the fogs work you can route the wires and reinstall the grill. I pushed the wires though a small opening between the radiator and the headlight assembly rather than wire the ballasts inside the radiator area. You can put the ballasts wherever the will safely fit and be secure.

After installing the wires, reinstalling the grill, and securing the ballast you are ready to reconnect the battery, put the radiator cover back on and you are done. The lights look really good and have lots more light than the factory halogen bulbs. Keep in mind when you look at the before and after photos below that my headlights and fogs are blackout tinted.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

 You’ll notice the HIDs provide a crisper, cooler-white light that makes night time driving safer and aesthetically pleasing.

You can find our many HID conversion kits for all years and models of Mustangs by clicking here: Mustang HIDs at StangMods.com

Installing Bixenon HIDs in 99-04 Ford Mustangs

In this write-up we will be going over the installation of StangMods’ bixenon HID conversion kit for 1999-2004 Ford Mustangs. This kit will increase light output and offer a whiter light for added style.

Tools Required:

  • 8 MM or 5/16 Socket

First you’ll want to remove your stock headlamps from the vehicle. This process can be found through this link.  Once your headlamp lenses have been removed, lay your wiring harness along the battery area underneath the hood as shown below.

Run the longer end of the harness over to the passenger side area. It is not important to tuck it away neatlly at this moment.

Now move back over to the driver’s side. There are two O ring connections that need to be made. One is a power (red wire) and ground (black wire). Connect the red O ring terminal to the positive side of the battery. Next, connect the black O ring terminal to a good ground source. We chose the bolt on the inner fenderwell as shown below.

You’ll now be left with three connections to be made on the driver’s side. Tuck them down next to the battery and out through the opening behind the headlamp as shown below.

Route the passenger side harness as shown below.

You can connect the gound O ring for the passenger side to the bolt for the hood prop rod.

Now we will be preparing the bulb for installation. The bixenon bulb has a removable base that must be removed before installing it in the headlamp housing. Simply twist the base counter clockwise and it will be removed. Once the base is removed, place the bulb through the plastic locking collar as shown below.

You can now reattach the base and install the bulb in the housing as shown below.

The final step is to re-attach the plastic locking collar to secure the bixenon bulb in the housing as shown below.

There are three remaining connections to be made on the passenger side. They are all all a simple plug in procedure. Simply match up the corresponding plugs. The final step on the passenger side is to mount your ballast. We chose to mount it on the inner fender as shown below.

At this point, you can zip tie all of the passenger side connections in place. We chose to zip tie the harness directly underneath the radiator shroud as shown below.

 

Move over to the driver’s side to complete the installation. Plug the stock harness into the blue plug on the driver’s side as shown below. Keep in mind that the stock harness plug on the passenger side is not used.

Tuck the harness connection back through the opening as shown below. You can also tuck your driver’s side ballast back through this opening. It is not necessary to use mounting brackets to secure it as there is limited space for the ballast to move around.

Finally, complete your plug in connections as you did on the passenger side and tuck away the harness around the battery as shown below. Once you have the wires in their desired location, you can use zipties to secure them to existing OEM wires.

All thats left is to re-install your driver’s side headlamp and check the HIDs to ensure they come on.

You can find our selection of Mustang HID conversion kits here: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-HID-Lighting-s/61.htm

How-To: Installing Headlamp Lenses & HIDs in 79-93 Foxbody Mustangs

With more and more cars on the road coming equipped with HID headlamps from the factory, older cars are really starting to show their age in terms of lighting technology. The foxbody Mustangs come standard with halogen bulbs and plastic housings that are prone to clouding over time, which is rather dangerous for night visibility. At StangMods we love lighting, so when we picked up our 93′ LX project car one of the first things we replaced were the headlamps. We opted for an OEM style 3-piece design. There are 1-piece lenses out there for the fox, but they don’t fit the same and look a bit tacky in our opinion. We wanted to keep the car looking as original as possible while improving light output and appearance. The image below shows the difference between the stock with halogen and the new lenses with our 4300k single-beam HID kit.

The install was rather simple, took about an hour and a half from start to finish. The most difficult part is removing the stock lenses, some of the nuts that hold the lenses in are hard to get to, but with patience and the right tools for the job it was well worth it. On each headlight, there are 7 nuts total. The image below with the lenses removes shows clearly where these mounting points are, circled in red. These nuts are 11mm, and we used both a socked and an open-end wrench, depending on the location.

These 7 nuts are located on the back of the headlights, the passenger side was a little easier to work on. On the drivers side there was one nut we had to access from the bottom through the front bumper, but again we stress that patience and an open-end 11mm wrench and socket will get the job done. We started with the passenger side corner lens, once you remove the two nuts holding the lens in place, rotate the bulb and free it from the lens.

The center lens, the actual headlight, has three 11mm nuts holding it in place. After removing these the lens slides out. Twist the bulb retaining ring and slide it back, the headlight bulb will come out easily. Make sure to keep this black locking ring, it is required and you will be re-using this on the new lens.

Next up remove the inner lens that houses the turn signal. We decided to replace the stock amber turn signal bulb with our 3157 chrome/amber bulbs. They look chrome when off but light up amber.

Back to the headlight lens, you will need to remove the three black clips holding the plastic bracket to the back of the headlight. These clips pop off and the bracket shown below will separate from the back of the stock housing. You will be using these three clips to fasten the stock bracket to the new lens, so be sure to keep these handy.

After removing the bracket, remove the rubber weather stripping shown below from the stock lens, as you will be using this on the new aftermarket lens. It is held on by clips on the side, it slides free easily.

Install the original headlight bracket onto the new lens and fasten it with the black metal clips. The rubber weather stripping also installs on the new lenses.

Install the new outer clear lens and side marker bulb.

After installing the new clear outer lens, find a safe and secure mounting place for the HID ballast behind the headlight, make sure none of the wires will be pinched. Feed the wires through the hole behind the headlight lens and connect the harness.

After the ballast is in place, install the HID bulb in the lens and feed the wiring through the locking ring. Install the locking ring and connect the bulb to the HID harness. Be sure to check power and make sure the HID bulb comes on before mounting the new headlamp lens to the car.

Last step is to reinstall the turn signal lens. After all the new lenses are installed, be sure to replace and tighten all 7 nuts behind the lights.

Repeat all the above steps on the other side. The install is simple, hardest part is getting the lenses out and locating the nuts holding the lenses in.

Below are some photos comparing the stock lenses to our aftermarket clear ones.