Installing Reverse Glow Gauges in 99-04 Ford Mustangs

The white face reverse glow gauges are a popular item for 94-09 Mustangs. Follow along as we install a set courtesy of Stack Racing.

Tools Required:

  • T15 Torx Head and Driver
  • Drill and metal bit
  • Soldering gun or Quick Splice Connectors
  • Thin Allen Wrench or Paper Clip

First you’ll want to disconnect your battery by removing the negative terminal first and then the positive side. It is a good idea to disconnect your battery whenever you are working on your Mustang’s electronics. Wait 15 minutes after disconnecting your battery before you being the install.

Remove the headlight knob to the left of the steering wheel. Pull the knob out in the “lights on” position and rotate the knob counter-clockwise until the slit is facing towards the driver’s side door. Inside the slit is a metal clip. Using a thin object (allen wrench works great), release the clip by gently lifting the clip outward towards the driver’s side door. While you do this, pull firmly on the headlight knob. This should release the knob and it should slide right off.

Now, remove the two screws holding the dash panel to the dash with the T15 torx bit and driver. Once removed, the entire panel can be taken out by firmly pulling straight out. This will release the clips and pins which also secure it in place. The torx screws are shown circled in red below.

We will be removing the gauge cluster from the dash. Begin by removing the (4) T15 torx screws which secure the cluster to the dash. Once you remove the screws, gently pull the cluster away but do not completely remove. There are two electrical plugs that need to be disconnected before you can remove the gauge cluster from the vehicle. The torx screws which need to be removed are circled in red below.

The two connectors which need to be unplugged are shown circled in red below.

Using the T15 torx bit and driver, remove the (8) Torx screws holding the clear lens onto the gauge cluster. Once all are removed, gently remove the clear lens.

Now we will begin installing the new white face gauges. The great thing about our design is you do not need to remove your needles for installation! Start with the fuel and temperature gauge section and slip the insert over the existing gauges as shown below. You can then move onto the other sections. Take your time and be careful with the needles so that they are not accidently broken.

Once the new white face gauges are in place, reassemble the gauge cluster unit by reinstalling the clear lens and replacing the (8) torx screws which held it on. Finally, the hard part is over! Next, we’ll be wiring up your new white face gauges.

We will be wiring the gauges to the headlight control unit. First, remove the headlight control unit by removing the two metric hex bolts shown circled below. Once removed, gently slide the unit out. The harness attached to the headlight control unit is shown below. You want to connect the red (positive) wire coming from the invertor included with your new gauges to the large gray wire that is located on the headlight control unit harness. Attach the black wire coming from the invertor to any good ground source. You can choose to drill a small hole in the chassis and attach the ground wire with an O ring terminal or you can tap into the black wire located on the headlight control unit harness (simplest way).

We are almost done at this point. Attach the clips coming from your new gauges to the clips on the new gauge harness. There maybe some extras but its not a big deal. This is a good time to test your electrical connections. You will need to plug the harnesses going into the gauge cluster back in and then reattach the positive and negative connections on your battery. Turn your lights on and hopefully your new white face gauges come to life!

Once everything checks out, you’ll finish the install by reversing the initial steps gone over at the beginning of this guide. Thats all there is to it! In under an hour, you can totally transform the cockpit of your Mustang.

Write up courtesy of StackRacing. You can purchase your white face reverse glow gauges at StangMods.com. The direct link to each specific model gauge is below:

1999-2004 Mustang GT Gauges

1999-2004 Mustang V6 Gauges

1996-1998 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1995 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1998 Mustang V6 Gauges

Fabricating HIDs Into 1999-2004 Non-Halo Projector Headlamps

In this write-up, we go over the process of fabricating an HID kit into a Non-Halo Projector headlight for 1999-2004 Mustangs. The install is very similar to the Dual Halo Projector + HID write up we did earlier. It is important to note that the Non-Halo Projectors in this write up use an H3 bulb while the Dual Halo Projectors use an H1 bulb.

 

Tools Required

  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Dremel Tool with Circular Bit
  • Adhesive Sealant

Your first step in fabricating the projector housings is to remove the cover off the back of the headlamps. This is done by removing the five phillips head screws as shown circled below.

Once you’ve removed the five screws, the cover will pop right off and the picture below shows exactly what your left with. You’ll need to remove the black ground wire and stock halogen bulb (both circled in red) to prepare the housing for the new HID bulb and wiring.

Give the black wire a gentle tug and it will come loose. The bulb has to be removed from the housing by releasing the metal clip holding it in place. Depress the metal clip and the bulb will come free. Once you have the bulb free from the housing, you want to remove it from the blue power wire. This is done by taking your needle nose pliers and gently opening the female connector as shown below. Just a slight opening will allow you to remove the bulb.

Now, you are left with one blue power wire and one black ground wire as shown below. The HID bulb is now ready to be installed into the projector.

Insert the bulb in the projector and secure it by re-installing the metal clip. Please note,  the bulb fits into the housing correctly only one way. You should not have to force the bulb for it fit. This is what the headlamp looks like with the HID bulb installed.

At this point, we are almost done. Now you need to create an opening in the cover that you removed in the first step. This is required for the HID wires to pass through. Take the cover and measure 2″ from the top and 3/4″ from the right side exactly as shown in the picture below. Mark the intersection of these two locations. This is where you will need to create your opening. Please note, we are measuring from the top where the three screw tabs are located. If you accidentally take your measurements from the bottom side, then your opening will be in the wrong location.

We are using a 300 series dremel to make quick work of the opening. Notice the bit we are using.

You want to create an opening that is roughly the diameter of a quarter. It does not need to be pretty or perfectly circular. Your main concern is creating the opening in the right location. Use the dremel tool at a moderate speed and take your time.

Once you’ve got your hole cut and you’ve verified its large enough, pass the two wires coming off of the HID bulb and the blue power and black ground wire from the headlamp through the opening and re-attach the cover using the five phillips head screws you took off in the first step.

Use the adhesive sealant to seal up the opening in the cover. Be generous with the material and overlap the edges to create an air tight seal.

Your final step in the fabrication process is to connect the power and ground wires from the headlamp and HID harness. Take the red wire with male connector from the HID harness and plug it into the blue wire with female connector coming from the headlamp. Next, take the black wire with male connector coming from the HID harness and plug it into the black wire with female connector coming from the headlamp. The connections are shown below.

Pull the silicone sheathing over the connections to avoid contact between the power and ground wires as shown below.

Follow the same procedure outlined above for the other headlamp and your fabrication will be complete. The last step is to obviously install them in your Mustang! Here is the projector on our workbench with a 10K HID bulb installed.

Installing 05-09 Mustang Turn Signal Bulbs & Lenses

In this edition of writeups, we go over the installation process of adding front turn signals to your 2005-2009 Mustang. Installation can be done without even lifting the car in the air.

  • Tools Required:
    Phillips Screwdriver

If you begin with the driver’s side, you’ll want to turn the wheel all the way over to the passenger side to gain access to the screws holding the inner fenderwell on. Remove them using a phillips head screwdriver along with the one push pin.

Once all three screws are removed, you can peel back the inner fenderwell and gain access to the turn signal lens behind the bumper cover. Now you’ll work on removing the stock turn signal lens. There are two white pins holding the turn signal to the bumper cover. Squeeze one pin at a time and gently pull the lens away to release it from the bumper.

Now, you’ll want to remove the stock bulbs from the turn signal lens before completely removing it from the vehicle. There are two separate bulbs in the lens. (3157 and 194 bulb) Grasp each bulb and turn it counter-clockwise to free it from the housing. The lens should be free now. Remove it from underneath the bumper. It helps to have an extra set of hands here

We are now ready to re-install the new turn signal lens. You first want to find the tab behind the bumper cover. This will help you guide the new turn signal lens into place. The tab is shown below.

Slide the new lens in through the opening in the fenderwell. Align the tab on the new lens with the slot on the bumper cover as shown below.

Secure the other end of the lens with the white pins as shown below.

One of the last steps is to install the new 3157 and 194 Chrome-Amber Bulbs. Using latex gloves, remove the stock bulbs and re-install the chrome amber ones. Then place them in the housing and turn them clock wise to secure them in the new lens. It is important to not touch the glass portion of the bulb with your exposed fingers. The oils from your skin can prematurely wear out the bulb. Once your bulbs are in, turn on your turn signals to ensure they work.

Finally, re-install the inner fenderwell screws to complete your installation. Now you can enjoy the clear look while staying DOT legal. The different turn signal lens and bulb packages can be found on our site here: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Clear-Turn-Signal-Lenses-Side-Markers-s/157.htm

Installing Clear Or Smoked Rear Side Markers & LED Bulbs In 05-09 Mustangs

In this write-up we add a set of clear rear side markers and red led bulbs to our 2009 Mustang GT. Installation is very simple and takes virtually minutes to do. You can find our rear side marker/LED package here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Rear-Side-Marker-Lenses-Red-LED-Bulbs-p/00980.htm

Tools Required:

  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Terry Cloth or Towel

The first step is removing the stock side marker. This is done by wrapping the end of a flat head screwdriver with a towel. Insert the end into the small gap where the sidemarker meets the body of the car and gently pull outward.

The sidemarker will be attached to the wiring harness from the vehicle. Depress the tab shown in the picture below and release the harness from the lens.

Now, remove the stock bulb housing from the lens by turning it counter clockwise. This is what you’ll be left with after removing the housing with bulb inside.

Now its time to get the clear lens and LED bulb ready for installation. Simply pull the stock halogen bulb out of its base and insert the new LED bulb. It’s important to note that the LED bulb will fit in the bulb housing two different ways, but only one way is correct. After installing the LED bulb in the small black housing, plug it into the sidemarker wiring harness. Use your key fob and unlock your doors. This will cause the LED bulb to come on. If it does not light up, then flip the position of the LED in the bulb housing.

Once you’ve done this, remove the bulb housing from the wiring harness and re-install it into the new clear side marker as shown below.

We’re almost done at this point. Take your new sidemarker with LED bulb installed and plug the sidemarker wiring harness back in.

The clear lens has an OEM fit. Simply push the lens back into place and you should hear/feel it snap in. It does not require much force to get it on so don’t force things!

Your installation is now complete!

You can purchase your sidemarker lenses and red led bulb from StangMods.com

New 2013 Mustang Lineup From The 2012 Washington D.C. Auto Show

This past weekend in the Nation’s Capitol the 2012 Washington D.C. Auto Show took place with a huge turnout from fans and enthusiasts alike, all eyes were on the newly refreshed 2013 Mustang line. Huge crowds, even the President of the United States was in attendance to welcome the next generation of Ford’s flagship pony car. With big styling changes and mechanical updates for the new year, the Mustang is on it’s way to the top of the affordable sports car playing field, kicking *** and taking names.

On display were all flavors of the 2013 Mustang including the GT, Boss 302 Laguna Seca and the much improved Shelby GT500 with it’s new 5.8L engine. The 2013 GT500 features the most powerful production V8 Ford has ever developed for a road legal car. Featuring over 650hp and a new 2.9L supercharger and Ford GT camshafts, the new Shelby motor is sure to crush any competition Detroit’s best can throw it’s way.

All 2013 Mustang models feature the new GT500 inspired front end, as well as new headlight and hood designs. Out back the 13′ Mustangs have a new gloss black deck lid panels, black tail lamps with LED lighting technology and sequential turn signals off the assembly line. Mechanically there are few changes on the Boss 302, GT and V6 models, however the Shelby GT500 is host to new go-fast mechanicals that put it way ahead of the other offerings from Detroit.

We had a chance to speak with an actual worker from the Mustang plant in Dearborne, he was clearly proud of what Ford has to offer in the new Mustangs and made a good point; even though the competition is offering independent rear suspension, the Mustang is still able to outperform with it’s tried-and-true solid rear axle. Imagine what will be possible one Ford offers the Mustang with IRS again. The competition may not be ready for that. Offering an affordable alternative to more expensive performance cars on the market has always been the Mustang’s claim to fame. Nothing can beat a Mustang for the money.

Since the re-introduction of the 5.0 in the Mustang, yet again America’s favorite pony car is on the top of it’s playing field. Even those looking for something a little more frugal find plenty of enjoyment in the updated V6 powerplant which now makes over 300hp. Being lighter than the Camaro gives the Mustang a huge advantage in terms of handling, ride quality and straight line performance as well as fuel economy. It seems like Ford really has a winning combination with the new Mustangs and we look forward to see what the next generation has to offer.

The new 2013 Mustangs really provide the whole package. Updated materials and premium standard offerings like HID headlamps, LED tail lamps and vented hoods on even the GT really make the car a huge bargain in the performance car market. One good comparison is BMW’s M3, a car that costs close to $70,000, is outperformed by the 5.0 GT Mustang. Looking at the spec sheets of both those cars you’d never be able to justify spending nearly $40,000 more on the BMW.

All in all the 2012 D.C. Auto Show was a great experience and Ford had a huge turnout of fans and enthusiasts trying to get a sneak peek at the new 2013 Mustangs. Ford definitely didn’t disappoint with a huge list of new standard features that really make the Mustang a bargain premium sports car. We look forward to seeing these new Stangs on the streets and can’t wait to see what the new Shelby GT500 is capable of on the track.

Dual Beam Bixenon HID Install Guide for 10′-13′ Mustangs

If you have a 2010 to 2012 Mustang that lacks the factory HID option you can add your own HIDs that look and perform a lot like the factory offering for a fraction of the price. In this how-to we will be installing the StangMods Dual Beam Bixenon HID Headlights in color temperature 6000K. Before we get into the actual instructions, we want to point out that these headlights are tinted and the tint will change the light output. If yours are not tinted the finished product will be brighter. Let’s get on with the install!

The first thing you need to do is pop the hood and get some light on your ride so you can see into the dark recesses under the hood. This car has an aftermarket radiator cover on it so yours may look different from this example. This is the first step though before going on to the next. Remove the battery cables from the battery since you are working with the cars electrical system. Take all safety precautions when working with any live electrical system.

Once you have the hood popped and enough light you start by removing the radiator cover so you can access the headlights under the hood. Removing the cover is easy and all you need to do is pull up on the black pushpins that lock the cover in place.

Once the radiator cover is removed, you can start by laying out the wiring harness that comes with the HID kit. The main power connector for the kit is designed to connect to the fuse block under the hood. Pop the cover on the fuse block and the large black nut where the power cable from the battery connects needs to be removed. You can then put the round ended power wire for the HID kit onto the stud, put the nut on, and tighten it back down. That is all you need to do for power to the HIDs.

The other wire you need to connect to get power for the HID headlights is the ground. We used the fender bolt near the passenger side headlight circled in red in the first photo below. We also routed the wire over to the other side of the car for the driver’s headlight at this point. Just lay the cable across the car being sure it won’t get pinched when you put the radiator cover back on later. You can see the black cable snaking across the radiator support in the second pic below, this pic was with the grill removed for the install of HID foglights.

Once you get the cable laid out. You will be able to see behind the headlights and as you can tell, it’s very tight back there. The orange plug you see here directly to the left of the windshield fluid reservoir is actually the blinker so don’t confuse it with the headlight which is a black and further down and more to the wheel well side of the car. If you find the fit is too tight for you to work you can remove the headlights to get better access, but that is not something we wanted to get into. To remove the factory headlight bulb from the headlight housing you give the large lock nut securing the bulb into the housing a twist and the bulb will pull out easily. The passenger side bulb comes out the same way and there is a bit more room on that side making it easier to see and work on the passenger side.

The factory headlight bulb has a grey end and a black lock nut, you can see what it looks like below with the top image being the factory set up and the image right underneath the StangMods HID bulb. You remove the actual connector from the factory bulb from the wiring harness of the car; you don’t just remove the factory bulb and plug the HID bulb in. The second picture below is the gray headlight harness plug with the factory bulb removed and the third pic is the HID bulb housing.  The StangMods HID kit has two pigtail wires running from the new HID bulb and housing that you will plug into the ballast. It’s important to note at this point that all of the ballasts are the same with this kit and you can just grab any one of them and use them for either side headlight or fog light. WARNING: DO NOT touch the glass surface of the HID bulb when installing. Doing so can cause premature bulb failure.

The pigtails that come off the HID bulb housing are keyed with connectors that will not allow you to hook them to the wrong plug on the ballast. As you can see in this shot, the passenger side headlight has a black and a red wire running from the HID bulb housing that connect to the white and blue wires running from the ballast. The HID pigtail will only plug into these two wires so you can’t get this wrong. The driver’s side connects the exact same way.

The wiring harness has a connector that connects to the ballast and while the ballast connection isn’t keyed, the connector on the ballast has a + and – mark and the wires that plug in are read for positive and black for negative making connection very simple. The factory headlight harness only plugs in on the passenger side to the HID harness. The plug for connection is easy to find and the factory headlight harness will only plug in one way. The driver side factory headlight harness isn’t needed. We taped ours up with electrical tape to keep it dry and wire tied it out of the way. If the headlights are all you are doing after you get all the connections made you can hide the ballasts and you are done.

Congratulations! You have installed your HID upgrade. Time to enjoy the increased light output and stylish color only HIDs can offer. Below is a photo of the kit working.

You can find our huge selection of HID conversion packages by clicking the following link: StangMods HID Lighting Store