Installing An Axle-Back Exhaust On The 2011-2013 Ford Mustang GT

For our second modification on our new project car we decided to try out Borla’s Atak axle-back exhaust system. Borla is one of the biggest names in domestic performance exhaust and it’s easy to see why when looking at the build quality and fit & finish on their systems. Their sturdy, lightweight construction is superb, and more importantly, the sound they produce is nothing short of stellar. Being an axle-back system we were expecting a mild sound, however this system really screams. Not in a bad way though, it really suits the new 5.0 very well. There is no rasp whatsoever, just a deep, powerful tone that screams Mustang 5 liter power! Even better than the sound when you’re on the throttle is the gurgling and popping you get when decelerating in gear. This axle-back is perfect for someone looking for a nice grunt on throttle, an aggressive deceleration pop and gurgle and when you’re just cruising around it’s very composed. Nothing that will annoy your neighbors or Johnny Law. Now on to the install guide. It took us about 2 hours to do the install with the car on jack stands. Please note that this guide is based on the new 2013 Mustang and the process may slightly differ from 2011 and 2012 GTs.

Tools Required:

13mm Socket

Socket Extension

Ratcheting Socket Wrench

The first step is to jack up the rear of the car and secure the rear of the car on jack stands. Never work under a car with a floor jack, always be sure to use jack stands and shake the car to make sure it’s safe to work under it.

After the car is safely in the air, the first bolt to remove is the bolt on the exhaust clamp that holds on the rear mufflers. This clamp will be re-used on the new axle-back system so be sure not to damage it. Once you remove the clamp bolt, be sure to retain all the factory hardware and set it aside so it can be used when installing the clamp on the new system. The clamp is welded to the stock system by a small tab that we will remove when the muffler is off the car.

Next, remove the muffler hangar from just behind the rear bumper.

Next, there are two bolts holding the hangars at the rear of the muffler tot he underside of the car. This bracket must be removed from the car and re-used on the new system. The image below shows the location of the 13mm bolts that hold the bracket to the underside of the Mustang.

Be sure to support the muffler when removing this bracket, once it is remove the mufflers will drop from under the car. We learned this the hard way! The photo below shows the passenger side muffler removed with the hangar bracket attached.

Follow the same steps on the driver’s side muffler. Remove the clamp hardware first and then the hangar right behind the rear bumper.

The driver’s side muffler has a slightly different hangar design, instead of using two 13mm bolts it uses three. After removing the three bolts in the locations shown below, the muffler will drop from under the car.

Below is a comparison of the stock muffler next to Borla’s Atak axle-back muffler. Notice how much smaller the Borla muffler is and the larger tip. It’s a fantastic looking system that fills the rear opening better as well as saves weight over the stock mufflers.

Now that both mufflers have been removed, it’s time to transfer the necessary hardware to install the new system. First remove the factory clamps from the stock mufflers. They are welded on by thin metal tabs. We simply moved them back and forth (sort of like breaking a paper-clip) until they broke free from the tabs.

The next step is to remove the hangar brackets and install them on the new mufflers. Make sure you install them in the correct orientation or the exhaust won’t bolt up properly.

Now you’re ready to bolt the new system under the car. Start by slipping the new hangar into the hangar bushing behind the rear bumper. After that’s in, bolt the hangar bracket at the back of the muffler to the underside of the car just as you removed it. Once all the hangars are in, simply reinstall the factory clamp and tighten it to complete the installation. Make sure the clamp is on straight to avoid an exhaust leak.

Repeat these steps for both sides and you’re done! Now it’s time to enjoy the new sound! The photos below show how the Borla Atak mufflers look from behind. Great fit and finish for an aftermarket system.

In conclusion, we definitely recommend replacing the rear mufflers on the new 5.0. From the factory they already sound good, but in order to really give the car that signature Mustang sound you can’t go wrong with an axle-back system. Not only are they affordable, they don’t make the car too loud. If you’re looking for something low key that will still turn heads, look great, not void your warranty and please your ears, you can’t go wrong with the Borla Atak axle-back system for the 2011-2013 5.0. You can find this system on our store by clicking the following link: Borla Atak Axle-Back Exhaust System for 2011-2013 GT & Boss 302

How To Install Map Light/Dome Bulbs in 2005-2012 Mustangs

This installment of writeups goes over the installation of LED dome light bulbs on the 2005-2009 Mustangs.

Tools Required:

  • None

You first want to remove the cover to access the dome bulbs. Simply grasp the cover firmly and pull down.

Next, use your thumb or a thin point and depress the tab holding the harness to the grey connector. Once you release the tab, gently pull the dome bulb cover away.

Take the assembly to a clean work area to prepare the installation of the new bulbs. There are two separate bulbs in the housing. Remove the bulbs by pulling them straight out.

Now, remove the stock bulbs and re-install your new LED bulbs. Once this is done, you are now ready to re-install the dome housing back into the vehicle. Remember to plug the grey connector back in the harness. Finally, line up the tabs on the dome housing as shown below.

Check to make sure your lights work and that completes the installation. Now you have a brighter light to help make things easier to see inside your Stang!

You can find our LED map light/dome bulbs by clicking the following links: White LED Map/Dome BulbsBlue LED Map/Dome Bulbs

Installing StangMods’ Mach 1 Grill Delete For 99-04 Mustangs

In this write-up we will go over the installation of our three piece Mach 1 Grille Delete Package. Our kit uses Ford OEM parts for great fit and finish as well as long term durability. This is one of our most popular sellers along with the Mach 1 lip spoiler. You can find our grill delete packages here: StangMods Grill Delete Packages

Tools Required:

  • 7MM Socket
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Flat Head Screwdriver

First start off by removing the four plastic push screws from the top portion of the stock grille. After removing these four screws, you will see two more push pin screws on each side. (Do not break these as they will be reused). The easiest method is to use a flat head screw driver to gently pry them up from underneath.

Now you are going to remove the four bolts holding the factory grill in place. They are a little awkward to get to so we recommend pulling the stock grill forward enough so you can reach down and remove the 7MM bolts with a socket.

Take the top center section and install it using the two push pins at the lower section of the grille delete.  Next, you will install the “U” shaped section. Reinstall it using the two push pins that were holding the stock grill on at the top. Make sure the four bottom posts are inserted into the bottom portion of the bumper. Remove the backing off of the 3M tape and push securely against the bumper to ensure a flush fit.

Finally, mount the running pony with the two new bolts using the phillips head screwdriver. You are now done with the installation.

Installing The Mach 1 Chin Spoiler On Your 1999-2004 Mustang

Our latest write-up goes over the process of installing a Mach 1 style chin spoiler on a 1999-2004 Mustang. StangMods carries high quality ABS plastic Mach 1 style lip spoilers with an OEM style textured finish. Not the glossy finish many aftermarket companies sell. Each of our chin spoiler kits comes included with push pin fasteners for a tight fit. This chin spoiler will give the front of your 99-04 Mustang a clean yet sporty look. You can find our chin spoilers for 99-04 here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Chin-Spoiler-for-99-04-p/00084.htm and the same chin spoiler for 96-98 Mustangs here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Chin-Spoiler-for-94-98-Mustangs-p/00542.htm

Tools Required:

  • Duct Tape
  • Push Pin Fasteners
  • Drill
  • 1/4″ Drill Bit

First start off by securing the vehicle on a level surface. Make sure the car is in gear and the parking brake is engaged.

Raise the front of the car so that you may have adequate space to work underneath the front bumper.

Mock fit the chin spoiler to the front bumper. It is easier if two people are handling the chin spoiler.

When you get the spoiler positioned to your liking, use duct tape to secure it to the bumper. (Tape will be removed later)

Drill ¼” holes into the bottom of the front bumper at each Chin Spoiler screw location.

Finally, insert pushpin fasteners into the holes on the bumper to secure the chin spoiler.

The last step is to remove the duct tape you used earlier to secure the chin spoiler to the bumper.

This completes the installation process.

 

Installing Bixenon HIDs in 99-04 Ford Mustangs

In this write-up we will be going over the installation of StangMods’ bixenon HID conversion kit for 1999-2004 Ford Mustangs. This kit will increase light output and offer a whiter light for added style.

Tools Required:

  • 8 MM or 5/16 Socket

First you’ll want to remove your stock headlamps from the vehicle. This process can be found through this link.  Once your headlamp lenses have been removed, lay your wiring harness along the battery area underneath the hood as shown below.

Run the longer end of the harness over to the passenger side area. It is not important to tuck it away neatlly at this moment.

Now move back over to the driver’s side. There are two O ring connections that need to be made. One is a power (red wire) and ground (black wire). Connect the red O ring terminal to the positive side of the battery. Next, connect the black O ring terminal to a good ground source. We chose the bolt on the inner fenderwell as shown below.

You’ll now be left with three connections to be made on the driver’s side. Tuck them down next to the battery and out through the opening behind the headlamp as shown below.

Route the passenger side harness as shown below.

You can connect the gound O ring for the passenger side to the bolt for the hood prop rod.

Now we will be preparing the bulb for installation. The bixenon bulb has a removable base that must be removed before installing it in the headlamp housing. Simply twist the base counter clockwise and it will be removed. Once the base is removed, place the bulb through the plastic locking collar as shown below.

You can now reattach the base and install the bulb in the housing as shown below.

The final step is to re-attach the plastic locking collar to secure the bixenon bulb in the housing as shown below.

There are three remaining connections to be made on the passenger side. They are all all a simple plug in procedure. Simply match up the corresponding plugs. The final step on the passenger side is to mount your ballast. We chose to mount it on the inner fender as shown below.

At this point, you can zip tie all of the passenger side connections in place. We chose to zip tie the harness directly underneath the radiator shroud as shown below.

 

Move over to the driver’s side to complete the installation. Plug the stock harness into the blue plug on the driver’s side as shown below. Keep in mind that the stock harness plug on the passenger side is not used.

Tuck the harness connection back through the opening as shown below. You can also tuck your driver’s side ballast back through this opening. It is not necessary to use mounting brackets to secure it as there is limited space for the ballast to move around.

Finally, complete your plug in connections as you did on the passenger side and tuck away the harness around the battery as shown below. Once you have the wires in their desired location, you can use zipties to secure them to existing OEM wires.

All thats left is to re-install your driver’s side headlamp and check the HIDs to ensure they come on.

You can find our selection of Mustang HID conversion kits here: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-HID-Lighting-s/61.htm

Replacing Your 05-09 Mustang’s Rear License Plate Bulb

In this writeup we go over the installation of a license plate bulb on any 2005-2009 Ford Mustang. StangMods carries not only standard halogen replacement bulbs but also high output LED bulbs in HID white and blue. You can find our selection of exterior bulbs here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Exterior-Bulbs-from-StangMods-com-s/106.htm

The only tool required for this install is a flat head screwdriver. This tool will be used to remove the fasteners holding the license plate bulb cover in place. First locate the two push pins holding the bulb cover in place. Using your flat head screwdriver, gently pull them out as shown below.

Once the pins are removed, grasp the cover as shown below and gently pull down. Do not use much force as the cover will be held to the vehicle with a wiring harness.

 

The stock bulb is attached to the grey harness. Give it a half turn counter-clockwise to release the harness and bulb from the cover.

To complete the installation, remove the stock bulb and re-install the new LED into the harness and then back into the cover. Finish up by re-attaching the two push pins you removed in step 1. Thats all there is to it. This rather simple mod really livens up an otherwise overlooked area of your ride!

You can purchase your LED license plate bulbs and replacement bulbs from StangMods.com

Installing Ford’s Locking Gas Cap for 94-09 Mustangs

In this write-up we go over the simple installation process of adding a locking gas cap to your 1994-2009 Ford Mustang. Protect your car from gas thieves and pranksters with this simple, inexpensive modification. This install is very simple and straight forward. The only tool needed is a pair of pliers, total install time is less than 15 minutes.

Begin the install process by removing the OEM gas cap which is held onto the fuel door with a push pin. Take your needle nose pliers and gently pull out the push pin as shown below.

Once you have the factory gas cap freed, simply unscrew the cap as you normally would. The new gas cap is attached to the fuel door in the same manner as the OEM one. Simply take the push pin and use your finger to re-insert it into the hole on the fuel door as shown below.

Once the push pin is in, put the gas cap on and turn it clockwise until you hear it lock and you are done! IMPORTANT: It’s a good idea to keep a spare key inside your car as well as one on your keychain so you’ll be able to unlock the cap when you get to the gas station.

Thank you for taking the time to view our blog. If you are in the market for a locking gas cap look no further than StangMods.com. Everything ships free and customer satisfaction is our highest priority. You can find our selection of Ford locking gas caps here: Locking Gas Caps for 94-09 Mustangs