Installing StangMods Bixenon HIDs in 05-09 Ford Mustangs

In this edition of writeups we go over the process of installing a Bixenon HID kit on a 2009 Mustang GT. This very popular modification was easy to install and required only a 10MM socket.

Tools Required:

  • 10MM Socket
  • Socket Extension

First take the wiring harness and position it on the passenger side near the fuse box cover. A majority of the connections will be made in this location.

Run the longer side of the harness over to the driver’s side of the vehicle. It is not important to tuck it away at this point.

Go back to the wires laid out on the passenger side. You’ll see two O ring terminals. You may have to push back the wire cover but you’ll see one is red and the other is black.

Using a 10MM socket, remove the bolt located on the inner fender. This is the location where you’ll connect the black ground wire with O ring terminal. Slip the O ring over the bolt as shown below and re-install the bolt.

Remove the cover on the fuse box located under the hood. There is a 10MM bolt circled in red below. Attach the red power wire with O ring terminal to this bolt. This is your power source.

The picture below shows our red O ring terminal power wire attached.

Next, you’ll want to remove the stock passenger side bulb. Simply turn the bulb counter-clockwise and it will come undone from the headlamp housing. Once you have the bulb removed, you’ll need to disconnect it from the stock harness. Use your thumb and press in the tab as shown below. While pressing the tab, gently pull the bulb away from the harness.

Take your new HID bulb and install it in the headlamp housing by turning it in clockwise.

Now, we’ll be connecting the H13 headlight plug from the HID harness to the stock passenger side harness as shown below. Simply plug the two connections in.

One of the last few steps for the passenger side is mounting your ballast. The picture below shows where we placed ours. There is more than enough space to drop in the ballast. Do not zip-tie it or bolt it in place just yet. The StangMods kit comes with both zip ties and brackets with hardware to mount your ballasts.

To finish up the installation on the passenger side, there are three plug-in connections that need to be made. Each of these connections are polarized; meaning they can only be plugged into each other one specific way. The first connection is from the bulb to the harness as shown below.

The next is the two separate plugs from the bulb to the ballast.

Finally, there is one remaining square plug from the HID harness. Connect it to the ballast as shown below.

Before buttoning everything up, check to make sure your passenger side HID bulb comes on and works.

After confirming the passenger side works, you can zip-tie all of the connections in place. Once everything is tucked away, it’ll be hard to notice the HID wiring.

Now we’ll begin on the driver side. We routed the harness over to the driver’s side following an OEM harness as pointed out in the picture below. Run the harness from HID underneath the radiator shroud cover.

To give us more space with the driver’s side headlamp area, remove the bolt holding the intake cover in place (use 10 MM socket and extension). You do not have to undo the intake completely. Simply remove the bolt and move the intake out of the way.

Remove the stock driver’s side bulb the same way you did the passenger side bulb. Undo the bulb from the harness and zip-tie the stock harness out of the way. It will not be used. You can now install the new HID bulb.

Now place the ballast in the location as shown below. There is just enough space for the ballast to fit in snugly. You can zip tie it to the large harness to keep it in place.

Next you’ll connect the driver’s side ground to the bolt on the inner fenderwell as shown below.

Finish up the process by making the same three plug-in connections that you made on the passenger side. Reinstall the stock intake and zip-tie any loose connections out of the way. This completes the full installation of your new HID kit.

Click Here to find our 05-09 Bixenon HID kit on StangMods.com

 

Installing StangMods HID Foglight Conversion On 2010-2012 Mustang GTs

In this write-up, we go over the process of installing StangMods’ HID foglight kit in your 2010-2011 Mustang GT. We’ve gone over the write up for the headlight kit which can be found HERE.

The fog kit needs no wiring harness and uses the factory wiring harness plugs to get power to the ballasts. As you can see with the grill installed there is very little space behind the grill. It’s not possible to do this install without removing the grill. Removing the grill is the most difficult part of installing this HID kit. You have to remove two bolts that hold the grill on and then pop the grill loose from the retailing tabs all around the grill. Take care to not scratch your paint during the removal process.

Once the grill is removed, you can access the bulbs easily. You need to twist and remove the factory bulbs from the housing of the fogs and then install the HID bulbs into the housing by pressing them into the opening and twisting to lock. The HID bulbs again have a black and red wire coming off for connecting to the ballast.

Once you have the bulbs installed, you are ready to install the ballasts for your fog lights and connect the wires. The factory connector to the fog light plug connects to one of the connectors running off the ballast. This is the only confusing part of the install. The factory harness for each of the fogs has two different colored wires. On each side, the power wire is different color than the ground wire is. You have to be sure that the ground wire of the factory plug is aligned with the side of the HID harness that has the black ground wire. In my case, the ground wire was a grayish color with a yellow stripe. If you hook this backwards, the HID fog lights will not work. Be sure you test the fogs to ensure they work before you reinstall the grill.

The installation for both the right and left fog lights is the exact same. All of the connectors except the one where the factory fog light harness plugs in that I just mentioned are keyed. The other wiring connections can’t be installed wrong. Once you get the ballasts hooked up and the fogs work you can route the wires and reinstall the grill. I pushed the wires though a small opening between the radiator and the headlight assembly rather than wire the ballasts inside the radiator area. You can put the ballasts wherever the will safely fit and be secure.

After installing the wires, reinstalling the grill, and securing the ballast you are ready to reconnect the battery, put the radiator cover back on and you are done. The lights look really good and have lots more light than the factory halogen bulbs. Keep in mind when you look at the before and after photos below that my headlights and fogs are blackout tinted.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

 You’ll notice the HIDs provide a crisper, cooler-white light that makes night time driving safer and aesthetically pleasing.

You can find our many HID conversion kits for all years and models of Mustangs by clicking here: Mustang HIDs at StangMods.com

Replacing Your 05-09 Mustang’s Rear License Plate Bulb

In this writeup we go over the installation of a license plate bulb on any 2005-2009 Ford Mustang. StangMods carries not only standard halogen replacement bulbs but also high output LED bulbs in HID white and blue. You can find our selection of exterior bulbs here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Exterior-Bulbs-from-StangMods-com-s/106.htm

The only tool required for this install is a flat head screwdriver. This tool will be used to remove the fasteners holding the license plate bulb cover in place. First locate the two push pins holding the bulb cover in place. Using your flat head screwdriver, gently pull them out as shown below.

Once the pins are removed, grasp the cover as shown below and gently pull down. Do not use much force as the cover will be held to the vehicle with a wiring harness.

 

The stock bulb is attached to the grey harness. Give it a half turn counter-clockwise to release the harness and bulb from the cover.

To complete the installation, remove the stock bulb and re-install the new LED into the harness and then back into the cover. Finish up by re-attaching the two push pins you removed in step 1. Thats all there is to it. This rather simple mod really livens up an otherwise overlooked area of your ride!

You can purchase your LED license plate bulbs and replacement bulbs from StangMods.com

Dual Beam Bixenon HID Install Guide for 10′-13′ Mustangs

If you have a 2010 to 2012 Mustang that lacks the factory HID option you can add your own HIDs that look and perform a lot like the factory offering for a fraction of the price. In this how-to we will be installing the StangMods Dual Beam Bixenon HID Headlights in color temperature 6000K. Before we get into the actual instructions, we want to point out that these headlights are tinted and the tint will change the light output. If yours are not tinted the finished product will be brighter. Let’s get on with the install!

The first thing you need to do is pop the hood and get some light on your ride so you can see into the dark recesses under the hood. This car has an aftermarket radiator cover on it so yours may look different from this example. This is the first step though before going on to the next. Remove the battery cables from the battery since you are working with the cars electrical system. Take all safety precautions when working with any live electrical system.

Once you have the hood popped and enough light you start by removing the radiator cover so you can access the headlights under the hood. Removing the cover is easy and all you need to do is pull up on the black pushpins that lock the cover in place.

Once the radiator cover is removed, you can start by laying out the wiring harness that comes with the HID kit. The main power connector for the kit is designed to connect to the fuse block under the hood. Pop the cover on the fuse block and the large black nut where the power cable from the battery connects needs to be removed. You can then put the round ended power wire for the HID kit onto the stud, put the nut on, and tighten it back down. That is all you need to do for power to the HIDs.

The other wire you need to connect to get power for the HID headlights is the ground. We used the fender bolt near the passenger side headlight circled in red in the first photo below. We also routed the wire over to the other side of the car for the driver’s headlight at this point. Just lay the cable across the car being sure it won’t get pinched when you put the radiator cover back on later. You can see the black cable snaking across the radiator support in the second pic below, this pic was with the grill removed for the install of HID foglights.

Once you get the cable laid out. You will be able to see behind the headlights and as you can tell, it’s very tight back there. The orange plug you see here directly to the left of the windshield fluid reservoir is actually the blinker so don’t confuse it with the headlight which is a black and further down and more to the wheel well side of the car. If you find the fit is too tight for you to work you can remove the headlights to get better access, but that is not something we wanted to get into. To remove the factory headlight bulb from the headlight housing you give the large lock nut securing the bulb into the housing a twist and the bulb will pull out easily. The passenger side bulb comes out the same way and there is a bit more room on that side making it easier to see and work on the passenger side.

The factory headlight bulb has a grey end and a black lock nut, you can see what it looks like below with the top image being the factory set up and the image right underneath the StangMods HID bulb. You remove the actual connector from the factory bulb from the wiring harness of the car; you don’t just remove the factory bulb and plug the HID bulb in. The second picture below is the gray headlight harness plug with the factory bulb removed and the third pic is the HID bulb housing.  The StangMods HID kit has two pigtail wires running from the new HID bulb and housing that you will plug into the ballast. It’s important to note at this point that all of the ballasts are the same with this kit and you can just grab any one of them and use them for either side headlight or fog light. WARNING: DO NOT touch the glass surface of the HID bulb when installing. Doing so can cause premature bulb failure.

The pigtails that come off the HID bulb housing are keyed with connectors that will not allow you to hook them to the wrong plug on the ballast. As you can see in this shot, the passenger side headlight has a black and a red wire running from the HID bulb housing that connect to the white and blue wires running from the ballast. The HID pigtail will only plug into these two wires so you can’t get this wrong. The driver’s side connects the exact same way.

The wiring harness has a connector that connects to the ballast and while the ballast connection isn’t keyed, the connector on the ballast has a + and – mark and the wires that plug in are read for positive and black for negative making connection very simple. The factory headlight harness only plugs in on the passenger side to the HID harness. The plug for connection is easy to find and the factory headlight harness will only plug in one way. The driver side factory headlight harness isn’t needed. We taped ours up with electrical tape to keep it dry and wire tied it out of the way. If the headlights are all you are doing after you get all the connections made you can hide the ballasts and you are done.

Congratulations! You have installed your HID upgrade. Time to enjoy the increased light output and stylish color only HIDs can offer. Below is a photo of the kit working.

You can find our huge selection of HID conversion packages by clicking the following link: StangMods HID Lighting Store

Xenon High Intensity Discharge (HID) Tech Guide

In the world of automobiles, there are three main types of lighting used today; Halogen, Xenon (HID), and LED. Halogen is the most common and also the oldest and most tried technology available. Halogen bulbs are used in every aspect of daily life, not just on your car. Most household bulbs are Halogen, they are cheap to make and have been in use since the early 1900′s. Halogen bulbs consist of a metal filament that glows when electrical current is sent through it, and Halogen gas inside the bulb is used to help promote long life and durability.

Xenon High Intensity Discharge, or HID, is a newer technology with many benefits over a standard Halogen type bulb. Instead of using a metal filament that is prone to failure over long term use due to high heat, Xenon bulbs use Xenon gas to create light instead. A steady electrical current is sent through the gas causing it to ignite which gives you the brilliant white light we have come to love from Xenon. There are a few advantages to using Xenon over Halogen, one being the significantly longer life, another being a brighter white color vs. Halogen’s yellowish light. Xenon technology also uses less wattage than a Halogen bulb and therefore Xenon runs significantly cooler than it’s Halogen counterpart. This lower temperature reduces risk of fire and premature failure. The white light emitted by Xenon bulbs also better represent daylight and make nighttime driving easier on the eyes.

LED technology, or Light Emitting Diode, is the newest technology available to the automotive lighting world. These tiny bulbs come in many colors, sizes, and shapes. They use the least amount of power out of the three technologies and run cool by comparison. They also have the longest life of all the bulb types because there is no heat to cause component failure. The downside to LEDs is their brightness, they are rather dim by comparison, and in order to create a similar amount of light to that of a Xenon bulb, you would need dozens of the smaller LEDs.

So now that we know how they work and what the benefits are, it’s pretty easy to see why HID technology has really dominated the automotive market when it comes to headlamps. You get the brightest whitest light available in a package that outlasts Halogen and runs cooler. Another advantage to Xenon technology is the ability to offer different “Color Temperatures” with different kits for different applications to fine tune the perfect look for each and every customer.

Typically HID color temps range from 4300k all the way to 12,000k. Although you may assume a higher number means the light is brighter, it’s actually the exact opposite. A 12,000k HID bulb emits a blue almost purple light, however this blue light isn’t as effective when it comes to illuminating a night road. Many people assume that the higher the number, the brighter the light…this is incorrect. The higher the color temperature the less usable light you have to use. A 4300k tempurature will create a pure white light that peirces through the night, and is by far the best at lighting up a night road. The kelvin rating is for color, the output is measured in lumens. A 35W HID bulb outputs 3x the lumens that a 55W Halogen bulb would output. The image below shows the differences in color temps from 4300k to 12,000k.

If you are looking for an HID package that will not stand out too much and will offer better visibility without the blue tint, 4300k is the perfect temperature for you. This is a pure white light that is the closest to a Halogen bulb’s color output. 6000k is our most popular temperature as is adds a bit of stylish blue tint without reducing visibility. There is almost no difference in visibility between a 4300k HID and a 6000k HID. Once you get to 8000k and above you start losing a small amount usable light, but you get the stylish blue tint that many enthusiasts demand from their HID kits. No matter what you choose in terms of color temperature, it will almost certainly be an improvement over your stock Halogens. Not just in terms of light output, but in longevity as well.

Now that we’ve covered the technology and color temps, what about the hardware? Included with every HID kit are ballasts. The job of the ballasts is to regulate electric current through the Xenon gas within the HID bulb. Without the ballast, the current would vary and the light would flicker. Ballasts come in many shapes and sizes, and depending on the quality of the kit their materials will vary. Cheap kits use plastic ballasts that are prone to overheating and pose a fire risk. Quality ballasts are constructed of metal materials and will last significantly longer in the harsh environment of your engine bay.

Below are some customer images showing different color temperatures:

4300K

6000k

8000k

10,000k

For more information on StangMods HID kits, visit our store and view our HID selection at: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-HID-Lighting-s/61.htm – Here you will find kits for late model Mustangs as well as kits for Non-Mustang applications.