Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber GT500 Style Rear Wing

January 15, 2013 Leave a comment

If you’re looking for the ultimate in carbon fiber body accessories look no further than TruCarbon. TruFiber’s carbon fiber division is well known for making hoods, diffusers & other high quality carbon parts for the new Mustangs. We decided to install their GT500 style rear trunk wing on our project 2013 5.0 to match our carbon hood vents. The isntall was very straightforward & took about an hour using only a flat head screwdriver, a dremel, double sided tape & a 10mm socket.

Start by opening the trunk and removing the push pins holding the inner carpet liner tot he trunk lid.

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Once the inner liner is removed locate the two 10mm nuts on either side of the trunk lid holding the factory wing in place. Remove all four bolts (2 on each side) and set them aside, they will be re-used to fasten the new carbon wing.

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After removing the four bolts the next and most difficult step is removing the double sided tape from under the factory wing. The best way to loosen the adhesive is to use a heat gun & fishing line. Be careful with the factory wing when removing it, it’s made of brittle plastic and will break if pulled too hard. Take your time with this step. Once you get a foot or two up on one side the rest gets easier.

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Once the factory wing is removed clean off the old adhesive & make sure all surfaces are clean before installing the new double sided tape. We opted to use very little tape as the four bolts do a good enough job of holding the wing in place. Use just enough tape to keep the carbon wing from rubbing on the paint.

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We needed to widen one hole slightly to make the studs line up for the carbon wing. Being a hand made part every wing will be slightly different but other than this one small fix the part’s fitment is absolutely spot-on. We used a small dremel bit to make the one hole a few millimeters wider.

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Once the wing is in place, tighten the four nuts holding the wing to the trunk lid and you’re finished! The last finishing detail is the wing lip that fastens using double sided tape. Remove the protective backing from the adhesive and stick the lip in place.

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You can find all of our TruCarbon body components for 10-13 Mustangs on StangMods.com by clicking the following link – http://www.stangmods.com/Trucarbon-Mustang-Carbon-Fiber-s/688.htm.

Here are some images of the finished product

tru-carbon-mustang-gt500-wing

gt500-wing-stangmods

carbon-fiber-gt500-wing

tru-carbon-gt500-wing

tru-carbon-mustang-wing

gt500-wing-carbon-fiber

The same GT500 wing can be found on StangMods through this link: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-DCA42KR-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Style-Wing-p/2780.htm

2005-2009 Mustang owners click here: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Wing-p/2885.htm

Filed under Aero Parts, Install Guides, New Parts, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , ,

Changing Out Your 2013 Mustang’s Hood Vents

July 17, 2012 2 Comments

One of the most exciting changes on the new 2013 Mustang line are the new hood vents that come standard on the GT & Boss 302 Mustangs. These fully functional vents allow the engine bay to run a bit cooler which in turn improve intake temps and ultimately improve power and efficiency. Plus, they look plain awesome. Changing the vents to black or any other color is a breeze since these vents are easily removed with a deep 8mm socket and by un-clipping them from the hood. Follow along below to see how it’s done in a few easy steps.

We sell the factory OEM Ford vents on our site unpainted, these are great for someone who wants to paint them a custom color themselves. You can find them here: http://www.stangmods.com/2013-Mustang-OEM-Hood-Vents-sold-in-pairs-p/2303.htm
Tools Needed:

8mm deep socket

Ratcheting socket wrench

Start by removing all of the clips holding the under-hood insulation on. Leave the bottom row attached, as you just need to remove enough to get to the bolts and clips holding the vents on.

Next, remove the 8mm nuts on the bottom of each vent. On the passenger side, remove the plastic clip holding the washer fluid line in place.

Once the nuts are removed, squeeze the clips on either side of the vents and push upwards, use your other hand to pull gently from the top side of the hood to free the vents from the hood itself. Do not use too much force, patience is key here.

Once the vents are free of all their clips, they will easily come free of the hood. Reinstalling the new vents is just the reverse of the steps above. Make sure you get all the clips snug when installing the new vents and remember to reinstall the 8mm nuts on the bottom of the vents as well as the washer line on the passenger side vent.

Here are photos of the factory painted vents and the new vents we installed (factory unpainted). In the next few weeks we will be posting new vent finishes including matte black and carbon fiber. Stay tuned!

Filed under Aero Parts, Install Guides, New Parts, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , ,

Swapping Steering Wheel Buttons On 2010-2013 Mustangs

July 13, 2012 1 Comment

When installing a new performance steering wheel on your newer Mustang, you may need to retain some function on your factory wheel that your new wheel may not come with. For example, our project 2013 GT came with Sync, and our Boss 302 alcantara wheel didn’t have the correct buttons to retain this function on the new wheel. We decided to swap the buttons from the factory wheel on to the new Boss wheel, problem solved!

For this install you will need to remove wiring harnesses, remove the buttons from the steering wheels and swap them around. Doing this took about 30 minutes and a lot of patience. There are small parts and springs you must be careful not to lose track of.

Tools Needed:

Torx T27

Torx T20

Assuming you already have the airbag removed, (See this link for instructions on removing the airbag HERE) begin by removing the trim pieces surrounding the buttons on either side of the factory wheel. These trim parts are held on by plastic fasteners that seat in rubber behind the trim. Carefully pull them toward you with even pressure to ensure you don’t crack them. There are no clips or anything, just pull them with enough force and they will slowly come out. Once they are out, the buttons will come free.

Next, remove the tree T27 torx bolts that hold the horn bracket in place. This bracket has three springs on the backside of it, make sure you don’t lose these or your horn will not work. Once the three bolts are removed, pull the bracket and springs off. There is a red wire clipped to the top of the bracket, remove this and pull the bracket free from the wheel and set it aside with the springs and bolts.

Next, remove the single T20 torx bolt that grounds the wheel harness to the wheel itself as shown below. Once this is done, remove the harness and it’s two white clips.

Here is the factory Sync harness removed. Set this harness and it’s buttons aside and repeat the process above on the Boss 302 wheel, removing it’s harness and buttons.

Below are the buttons that come on the Boss 302 wheel, remove these and it’s harness and replace them with the harness and buttons from your factory wheel with Sync.

To install the new buttons, first reinstall the trim pieces that surround the buttons then snap them into place.

Once both side’s buttons are in, reinstall the harness, connect the black ground wire and it’s T20 torx bolt and plug the harness into the new buttons. Ensure everything is plugged in and solid before moving on to the next step.

Next, reinstall the horn bracket, ensure that the three springs are seated and are properly installed before putting the three T27 bolts back. Again, if these springs are not installed properly your horn will not work right.

Tighten the three black torx bolts and replace the red wire that clips to the horn bracket.

Next, reinstall the airbag unit, plug the wires in to their corresponding colors (grey or black) and press the airbag into the wheel. Replace the two 8mm bolts on either side of the wheel as well as their cover caps and you’re done! Reconnect the battery and ensure all your buttons work properly. Enjoy your new wheel!

To view to the full wheel install guide, click HERE

To find this Boss 302 steering wheel in our online store, click here: Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel for 2010-2013 Mustangs

Filed under Install Guides, New Parts, Performance Mods, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing An Axle-Back Exhaust On The 2011-2013 Ford Mustang GT

July 10, 2012 10 Comments

For our second modification on our new project car we decided to try out Borla’s Atak axle-back exhaust system. Borla is one of the biggest names in domestic performance exhaust and it’s easy to see why when looking at the build quality and fit & finish on their systems. Their sturdy, lightweight construction is superb, and more importantly, the sound they produce is nothing short of stellar. Being an axle-back system we were expecting a mild sound, however this system really screams. Not in a bad way though, it really suits the new 5.0 very well. There is no rasp whatsoever, just a deep, powerful tone that screams Mustang 5 liter power! Even better than the sound when you’re on the throttle is the gurgling and popping you get when decelerating in gear. This axle-back is perfect for someone looking for a nice grunt on throttle, an aggressive deceleration pop and gurgle and when you’re just cruising around it’s very composed. Nothing that will annoy your neighbors or Johnny Law. Now on to the install guide. It took us about 2 hours to do the install with the car on jack stands. Please note that this guide is based on the new 2013 Mustang and the process may slightly differ from 2011 and 2012 GTs.

Tools Required:

13mm Socket

Socket Extension

Ratcheting Socket Wrench

The first step is to jack up the rear of the car and secure the rear of the car on jack stands. Never work under a car with a floor jack, always be sure to use jack stands and shake the car to make sure it’s safe to work under it.

After the car is safely in the air, the first bolt to remove is the bolt on the exhaust clamp that holds on the rear mufflers. This clamp will be re-used on the new axle-back system so be sure not to damage it. Once you remove the clamp bolt, be sure to retain all the factory hardware and set it aside so it can be used when installing the clamp on the new system. The clamp is welded to the stock system by a small tab that we will remove when the muffler is off the car.

Next, remove the muffler hangar from just behind the rear bumper.

Next, there are two bolts holding the hangars at the rear of the muffler tot he underside of the car. This bracket must be removed from the car and re-used on the new system. The image below shows the location of the 13mm bolts that hold the bracket to the underside of the Mustang.

Be sure to support the muffler when removing this bracket, once it is remove the mufflers will drop from under the car. We learned this the hard way! The photo below shows the passenger side muffler removed with the hangar bracket attached.

Follow the same steps on the driver’s side muffler. Remove the clamp hardware first and then the hangar right behind the rear bumper.

The driver’s side muffler has a slightly different hangar design, instead of using two 13mm bolts it uses three. After removing the three bolts in the locations shown below, the muffler will drop from under the car.

Below is a comparison of the stock muffler next to Borla’s Atak axle-back muffler. Notice how much smaller the Borla muffler is and the larger tip. It’s a fantastic looking system that fills the rear opening better as well as saves weight over the stock mufflers.

Now that both mufflers have been removed, it’s time to transfer the necessary hardware to install the new system. First remove the factory clamps from the stock mufflers. They are welded on by thin metal tabs. We simply moved them back and forth (sort of like breaking a paper-clip) until they broke free from the tabs.

The next step is to remove the hangar brackets and install them on the new mufflers. Make sure you install them in the correct orientation or the exhaust won’t bolt up properly.

Now you’re ready to bolt the new system under the car. Start by slipping the new hangar into the hangar bushing behind the rear bumper. After that’s in, bolt the hangar bracket at the back of the muffler to the underside of the car just as you removed it. Once all the hangars are in, simply reinstall the factory clamp and tighten it to complete the installation. Make sure the clamp is on straight to avoid an exhaust leak.

Repeat these steps for both sides and you’re done! Now it’s time to enjoy the new sound! The photos below show how the Borla Atak mufflers look from behind. Great fit and finish for an aftermarket system.

In conclusion, we definitely recommend replacing the rear mufflers on the new 5.0. From the factory they already sound good, but in order to really give the car that signature Mustang sound you can’t go wrong with an axle-back system. Not only are they affordable, they don’t make the car too loud. If you’re looking for something low key that will still turn heads, look great, not void your warranty and please your ears, you can’t go wrong with the Borla Atak axle-back system for the 2011-2013 5.0. You can find this system on our store by clicking the following link: Borla Atak Axle-Back Exhaust System for 2011-2013 GT & Boss 302

Filed under Exhaust, Install Guides, Mustang News, New Parts, Performance Mods, StangMods News Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing StangMods 99-04 Vinyl Tail Light Decals

June 5, 2012 Leave a comment

Mustang Tail Light Decal Installation (Flamed, Outline & Honeycomb Kits)

Tools Required:

  • Squeeggee
  • Spray bottle
  • Liquid soap
  • Terry cloth or towel

Use rubbing alcohol to wash all dirt and road grime from the surface of your tail lights.

Mix your soapy water solution by adding a few drops of liquid soap to warm water in a spray bottle.

Generously spray the solution over the lens you are working on. Then remove the vinyl decal from the paper backing and apply it to the lens.

While the solution is still saturating the tail light lens, align the decal for a correct fitment and use your squeeggee to remove any excess solution from underneath the decal. Start from the center and move your way out.

Wait a few minutes, depending on the temperature, and then try to remove the transfer tape (top protective paper) from the vinyl. If the paper comes off and the vinyl stays in place, then you are good to go and you can move on to the next one. If the vinyl comes off, rather than staying on the car then use your squeege to apply the decal over the lens again.

Finish up by wiping off any excess solution from the body of your Stang.

Visit StangMods for more Mustang vinyl decals

Filed under Install Guides, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing StangMods’ Vinyl Lower Bumper Insert for 99-04

June 5, 2012 Leave a comment

 

Mustang Vinyl Lower Rear Bumper Insert Installation

 Tools Required:

  • Squeeggee
  • Spray bottle
  • Liquid soap
  • Terry cloth or towel

First start off by making your soapy solution by combining three to four drops of dishwashing detergent with warm water

Next, you’ll want to thouroughly clean and prep the area for instalaltion. Use alcohol to clean any dirt or debris from the lower bumper area.

Once everything is nice and dry, you’ll now be ready for installation. Peel off the backing of the vinyl overlay. Be careful not to let it touch any surface other than the vehicle.

Spray the soapy solution over the entire lower bumper area.

Align the vinyl in place and use a squeegee to apply it to the vehicle.  Work from the center of the vinyl to the edges, slowly pushing any air bubbles and excess solution out from under the decal. It may take a few minutes until the vinyl begins to adhere to the vehicle.

Finish up by wiping off any excess solution from the body of your Stang.

Visit StangMods for more vinyl Mustang decals.

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Installing Vinyl Mustang Bumper Inserts on 99-04 Mustangs

May 31, 2012 Leave a comment

Installing Mustang vinyl bumper inserts is probably one of the simplest modifications that can be done to your 99-04 Mustang. We go over the rather quick process in this installation write-up.

Tools Required:

  • Spray Bottle
  • A couple of drops of liquid soap
  • Q Tip
  • Hair dryer or heat gun (optional)

You first want to make sure the letter area on your rear bumper is completely clean and dry. This is absolutely important to ensure the letters adhere to the bumper properly. After this is done, you’ll want to mix a warm water and liquid soap solution and put it in a spray bottle. Any liquid soap will work.

Next, take your water/soap solution and spray down the letter area on your rear bumper. It is better to work with one letter at a time. Here we are starting with the M.

Once the area is wet, take the vinyl bumper letter and peel off the thicker paper backing as shown below.

Now, line up the vinyl letter with the indentation on the bumper. Take your time and be patient as you want to make sure the letters are lined up correctly.

Once the letter is lined up with the indentation in the bumper, take your q-tip and begin smoothing out the letter onto the bumper.  Work from the center towards the sides. Try to get as much as the liquid solution out from the letter.

It is important to note that if you are working in temperatures below 60 degrees, you may want to use a hair dryer or heat gun to help warm up the vinyl. This makes it easier to adhere to the bumper.

Once the letter is firmly in place, you can peel off the transfer tape. Start peeling the paper away slowly. If the vinyl letter stays in place on the bumper then you can remove the rest of the transfer tape.

Repeat the above process for the rest of the letters. Take your time with the “G” as it is more difficult to line up correctly. After your done, you’ll be left with this:

This write up has been sponsored by: StangMods.com

Filed under Install Guides, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing Reverse Glow Gauges in 99-04 Ford Mustangs

May 15, 2012 Leave a comment

The white face reverse glow gauges are a popular item for 94-09 Mustangs. Follow along as we install a set courtesy of Stack Racing.

Tools Required:

  • T15 Torx Head and Driver
  • Drill and metal bit
  • Soldering gun or Quick Splice Connectors
  • Thin Allen Wrench or Paper Clip

First you’ll want to disconnect your battery by removing the negative terminal first and then the positive side. It is a good idea to disconnect your battery whenever you are working on your Mustang’s electronics. Wait 15 minutes after disconnecting your battery before you being the install.

Remove the headlight knob to the left of the steering wheel. Pull the knob out in the “lights on” position and rotate the knob counter-clockwise until the slit is facing towards the driver’s side door. Inside the slit is a metal clip. Using a thin object (allen wrench works great), release the clip by gently lifting the clip outward towards the driver’s side door. While you do this, pull firmly on the headlight knob. This should release the knob and it should slide right off.

Now, remove the two screws holding the dash panel to the dash with the T15 torx bit and driver. Once removed, the entire panel can be taken out by firmly pulling straight out. This will release the clips and pins which also secure it in place. The torx screws are shown circled in red below.

We will be removing the gauge cluster from the dash. Begin by removing the (4) T15 torx screws which secure the cluster to the dash. Once you remove the screws, gently pull the cluster away but do not completely remove. There are two electrical plugs that need to be disconnected before you can remove the gauge cluster from the vehicle. The torx screws which need to be removed are circled in red below.

The two connectors which need to be unplugged are shown circled in red below.

Using the T15 torx bit and driver, remove the (8) Torx screws holding the clear lens onto the gauge cluster. Once all are removed, gently remove the clear lens.

Now we will begin installing the new white face gauges. The great thing about our design is you do not need to remove your needles for installation! Start with the fuel and temperature gauge section and slip the insert over the existing gauges as shown below. You can then move onto the other sections. Take your time and be careful with the needles so that they are not accidently broken.

Once the new white face gauges are in place, reassemble the gauge cluster unit by reinstalling the clear lens and replacing the (8) torx screws which held it on. Finally, the hard part is over! Next, we’ll be wiring up your new white face gauges.

We will be wiring the gauges to the headlight control unit. First, remove the headlight control unit by removing the two metric hex bolts shown circled below. Once removed, gently slide the unit out. The harness attached to the headlight control unit is shown below. You want to connect the red (positive) wire coming from the invertor included with your new gauges to the large gray wire that is located on the headlight control unit harness. Attach the black wire coming from the invertor to any good ground source. You can choose to drill a small hole in the chassis and attach the ground wire with an O ring terminal or you can tap into the black wire located on the headlight control unit harness (simplest way).

We are almost done at this point. Attach the clips coming from your new gauges to the clips on the new gauge harness. There maybe some extras but its not a big deal. This is a good time to test your electrical connections. You will need to plug the harnesses going into the gauge cluster back in and then reattach the positive and negative connections on your battery. Turn your lights on and hopefully your new white face gauges come to life!

Once everything checks out, you’ll finish the install by reversing the initial steps gone over at the beginning of this guide. Thats all there is to it! In under an hour, you can totally transform the cockpit of your Mustang.

Write up courtesy of StackRacing. You can purchase your white face reverse glow gauges at StangMods.com. The direct link to each specific model gauge is below:

1999-2004 Mustang GT Gauges

1999-2004 Mustang V6 Gauges

1996-1998 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1995 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1998 Mustang V6 Gauges

Filed under Install Guides, Lighting, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing Vinyl Rear Decklid Panels on 99-04 Mustangs

May 11, 2012 Leave a comment

Our popular 99-04 vinyl decklid panel is a fast and affordable way to give your Mustang an aggressive look & stand out from the crowd. This automotive grade (wont leave nasty residue) adhesive vinyl covering comes in either gloss black, carbon fiber or matte black. All of our vinyl overlays come with a free squeegee to help with the install. These decklid overlays are a very popular seller and have been a huge success over the years for V6, GT, and Cobras alike. Check out our full line of dress-up vinyl overlays here: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Graphics-Vinyl-s/224.htm

Tools Required:

  • Squeegee (Included)
  • Spray bottle
  • Liquid soap
  • Terry cloth or towel

 

First remove any and all emblems including the Ford Oval emblem and any other emblem that your   specific model came with. Also remove your license plate.

Next, use rubbing alcohol to wash all wax and dirt from the surface where the decklid panel will be installed.

Make a soapy solution of by combining three to four drops of dish washing detergent with warm water.

Spray the solution over the decklid area where the new vinyl overlay will be installed.

Once the area is saturated, start with one section at a time and peel off the paper backing material from the black vinyl.

Align the vinyl in place and use a squeegee to apply it to the vehicle.  Work from the center of the vinyl to the edges, slowly pushing any air bubbles and excess solution out from under the decal. Please be patient with this procedure. It may take several minutes for the vinyl to finally adhere. Repeat this procedure for the other two sections and your done!

Use your terry cloth towel to wipe off any excess solution from your Stang.

Visit StangMods to purchase your Vinyl Mustang Decklid Trim Panel and other Mustang vinyl decals

Filed under Install Guides, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Fabricating HIDs Into 1999-2004 Non-Halo Projector Headlamps

April 2, 2012 Leave a comment

In this write-up, we go over the process of fabricating an HID kit into a Non-Halo Projector headlight for 1999-2004 Mustangs. The install is very similar to the Dual Halo Projector + HID write up we did earlier. It is important to note that the Non-Halo Projectors in this write up use an H3 bulb while the Dual Halo Projectors use an H1 bulb.

 

Tools Required

  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Dremel Tool with Circular Bit
  • Adhesive Sealant

Your first step in fabricating the projector housings is to remove the cover off the back of the headlamps. This is done by removing the five phillips head screws as shown circled below.

Once you’ve removed the five screws, the cover will pop right off and the picture below shows exactly what your left with. You’ll need to remove the black ground wire and stock halogen bulb (both circled in red) to prepare the housing for the new HID bulb and wiring.

Give the black wire a gentle tug and it will come loose. The bulb has to be removed from the housing by releasing the metal clip holding it in place. Depress the metal clip and the bulb will come free. Once you have the bulb free from the housing, you want to remove it from the blue power wire. This is done by taking your needle nose pliers and gently opening the female connector as shown below. Just a slight opening will allow you to remove the bulb.

Now, you are left with one blue power wire and one black ground wire as shown below. The HID bulb is now ready to be installed into the projector.

Insert the bulb in the projector and secure it by re-installing the metal clip. Please note,  the bulb fits into the housing correctly only one way. You should not have to force the bulb for it fit. This is what the headlamp looks like with the HID bulb installed.

At this point, we are almost done. Now you need to create an opening in the cover that you removed in the first step. This is required for the HID wires to pass through. Take the cover and measure 2″ from the top and 3/4″ from the right side exactly as shown in the picture below. Mark the intersection of these two locations. This is where you will need to create your opening. Please note, we are measuring from the top where the three screw tabs are located. If you accidentally take your measurements from the bottom side, then your opening will be in the wrong location.

We are using a 300 series dremel to make quick work of the opening. Notice the bit we are using.

You want to create an opening that is roughly the diameter of a quarter. It does not need to be pretty or perfectly circular. Your main concern is creating the opening in the right location. Use the dremel tool at a moderate speed and take your time.

Once you’ve got your hole cut and you’ve verified its large enough, pass the two wires coming off of the HID bulb and the blue power and black ground wire from the headlamp through the opening and re-attach the cover using the five phillips head screws you took off in the first step.

Use the adhesive sealant to seal up the opening in the cover. Be generous with the material and overlap the edges to create an air tight seal.

Your final step in the fabrication process is to connect the power and ground wires from the headlamp and HID harness. Take the red wire with male connector from the HID harness and plug it into the blue wire with female connector coming from the headlamp. Next, take the black wire with male connector coming from the HID harness and plug it into the black wire with female connector coming from the headlamp. The connections are shown below.

Pull the silicone sheathing over the connections to avoid contact between the power and ground wires as shown below.

Follow the same procedure outlined above for the other headlamp and your fabrication will be complete. The last step is to obviously install them in your Mustang! Here is the projector on our workbench with a 10K HID bulb installed.

Filed under Install Guides, Lighting, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , ,

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