How To Install MRT Hood Struts On 2010 & Up Ford Mustangs

MRT’s hood struts are one of the most useful mods you can do to your Ford Mustang. The stock prop rod is cheap & flimsy & doesn’t belong on a car like the Mustang. Many new luxury & performance cars come with hood strut systems from the factory, this simple mod will make opening your hood easier and quicker, a useful tool for those who work on their Mustangs on a regular basis. You can find this black MRT Hood Strut Kit on StangMods by clicking the following link: MRT Black Hood Strut Kit

For this install you will need a couple of tools. They are:  a 10mm socket wrench, razor cutter or scissors, flat head screwdriver, extra set of hands to help support the hood when adding the strut brackets.

Start by locating the fender bolt closest to the hood of the car, remove this 10mm bolt, place the lower bracket there & tighten it down. The RH side is the passenger side, LH is the drivers side. Each bracket in the kit is engraved with either RH or LH.

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After the lower brackets are in place it’s time to install the upper brackets. You may want to grab a friend to help with this step. Remove the upper 10mm bolt and LOOSTEN the lower one just enough to slide the braket under the head of the lower bolt. Reinstall the upper bolt once the lower part of the bracket is fastened by the lower bolt.

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Once the brackets on both sides of the hood/vehicle are installed and tightened, install the struts! You can now ditch the prop rod for good, you can even unbolt it’s bracket & throw it in the trash, up to you!

The steps above complete the install process on 05-09 Mustangs. If you have a 2010 and newer model you’ll need to modify the sound tube located on the driver’s side. This is required to give the hood strut clearance.

Start by removing the lower rubber bushing under the plastic bracket. There is a small metal guide for the bolt pressed through this bushing, you can remove it with a flathead screwdriver Do not throw this away as it will be reused. Once the rubber bracket has been removed, cut about half an inch out of the center of the rubber bushing as marked by the red lines in the photo below.

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After you’ve cut the bushing install everything backwards like shown below. The U clip that the bolt originally threaded into must be installed on the bottom of all of this.

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Once everything is lined up, bolt it down like shown below. All done!

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Now you have an attractive, useful mod that’ll give you more clearance while providing a nice visual upgrade . For more information on MRT’s Hood Strut Kits, follow this link: http://www.stangmods.com/MRT-Hood-Struts-05-13-Mustangs-p/00109.htm

Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel Spokes

In this write-up we will go over the simple installation of TruCarbon’s carbon fiber steering wheel trim. -Click Here To View In Our Store- The only tools you’ll need for this install are a deep 8mm socket & a flathead. Start by removing the two plastic covers on either side of the back of the steering wheel right before the steering column. A flathead screwdriver is the best way to pry out those covers. Under the covers you will see an 8mm bolt on either side. Remove both of these bolts and pull the airbag section from the wheel.

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Once you’ve pulled the center of the wheel out, remove the two wires by squeezing the clips holding them to the airbag.

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After the airbag is free from the steering wheel pull the first trim piece off of the wheel. use a flathead or your nails to pull toward you, the trim pieces are held in by four posts.

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Once the trim piece is free, unclip the buttons from the trim and insert them into the new carbon wheel spoke. Repeat the last steps for the other spoke & buttons.

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For the lower wheel spoke you’ll need a flathead to pry it off, be gentle & take your time.

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Reinstall the lower trim piece, the airbag, bolts, etc & you are done!

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Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber GT500 Style Rear Wing

If you’re looking for the ultimate in carbon fiber body accessories look no further than TruCarbon. TruFiber’s carbon fiber division is well known for making hoods, diffusers & other high quality carbon parts for the new Mustangs. We decided to install their GT500 style rear trunk wing on our project 2013 5.0 to match our carbon hood vents. The isntall was very straightforward & took about an hour using only a flat head screwdriver, a dremel, double sided tape & a 10mm socket.

Start by opening the trunk and removing the push pins holding the inner carpet liner tot he trunk lid.

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Once the inner liner is removed locate the two 10mm nuts on either side of the trunk lid holding the factory wing in place. Remove all four bolts (2 on each side) and set them aside, they will be re-used to fasten the new carbon wing.

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After removing the four bolts the next and most difficult step is removing the double sided tape from under the factory wing. The best way to loosen the adhesive is to use a heat gun & fishing line. Be careful with the factory wing when removing it, it’s made of brittle plastic and will break if pulled too hard. Take your time with this step. Once you get a foot or two up on one side the rest gets easier.

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Once the factory wing is removed clean off the old adhesive & make sure all surfaces are clean before installing the new double sided tape. We opted to use very little tape as the four bolts do a good enough job of holding the wing in place. Use just enough tape to keep the carbon wing from rubbing on the paint.

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We needed to widen one hole slightly to make the studs line up for the carbon wing. Being a hand made part every wing will be slightly different but other than this one small fix the part’s fitment is absolutely spot-on. We used a small dremel bit to make the one hole a few millimeters wider.

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Once the wing is in place, tighten the four nuts holding the wing to the trunk lid and you’re finished! The last finishing detail is the wing lip that fastens using double sided tape. Remove the protective backing from the adhesive and stick the lip in place.

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You can find all of our TruCarbon body components for 10-13 Mustangs on StangMods.com by clicking the following link – http://www.stangmods.com/Trucarbon-Mustang-Carbon-Fiber-s/688.htm.

Here are some images of the finished product

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The same GT500 wing can be found on StangMods through this link: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-DCA42KR-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Style-Wing-p/2780.htm

2005-2009 Mustang owners click here: http://www.stangmods.com/TruCarbon-Carbon-Fiber-GT500-Wing-p/2885.htm

Changing Out Your 2013 Mustang’s Hood Vents

One of the most exciting changes on the new 2013 Mustang line are the new hood vents that come standard on the GT & Boss 302 Mustangs. These fully functional vents allow the engine bay to run a bit cooler which in turn improve intake temps and ultimately improve power and efficiency. Plus, they look plain awesome. Changing the vents to black or any other color is a breeze since these vents are easily removed with a deep 8mm socket and by un-clipping them from the hood. Follow along below to see how it’s done in a few easy steps.

We sell the factory OEM Ford vents on our site unpainted, these are great for someone who wants to paint them a custom color themselves. You can find them here: http://www.stangmods.com/2013-Mustang-OEM-Hood-Vents-sold-in-pairs-p/2303.htm
Tools Needed:

8mm deep socket

Ratcheting socket wrench

Start by removing all of the clips holding the under-hood insulation on. Leave the bottom row attached, as you just need to remove enough to get to the bolts and clips holding the vents on.

Next, remove the 8mm nuts on the bottom of each vent. On the passenger side, remove the plastic clip holding the washer fluid line in place.

Once the nuts are removed, squeeze the clips on either side of the vents and push upwards, use your other hand to pull gently from the top side of the hood to free the vents from the hood itself. Do not use too much force, patience is key here.

Once the vents are free of all their clips, they will easily come free of the hood. Reinstalling the new vents is just the reverse of the steps above. Make sure you get all the clips snug when installing the new vents and remember to reinstall the 8mm nuts on the bottom of the vents as well as the washer line on the passenger side vent.

Here are photos of the factory painted vents and the new vents we installed (factory unpainted). In the next few weeks we will be posting new vent finishes including matte black and carbon fiber. Stay tuned!

Swapping Steering Wheel Buttons On 2010-2013 Mustangs

When installing a new performance steering wheel on your newer Mustang, you may need to retain some function on your factory wheel that your new wheel may not come with. For example, our project 2013 GT came with Sync, and our Boss 302 alcantara wheel didn’t have the correct buttons to retain this function on the new wheel. We decided to swap the buttons from the factory wheel on to the new Boss wheel, problem solved!

For this install you will need to remove wiring harnesses, remove the buttons from the steering wheels and swap them around. Doing this took about 30 minutes and a lot of patience. There are small parts and springs you must be careful not to lose track of.

Tools Needed:

Torx T27

Torx T20

Assuming you already have the airbag removed, (See this link for instructions on removing the airbag HERE) begin by removing the trim pieces surrounding the buttons on either side of the factory wheel. These trim parts are held on by plastic fasteners that seat in rubber behind the trim. Carefully pull them toward you with even pressure to ensure you don’t crack them. There are no clips or anything, just pull them with enough force and they will slowly come out. Once they are out, the buttons will come free.

Next, remove the tree T27 torx bolts that hold the horn bracket in place. This bracket has three springs on the backside of it, make sure you don’t lose these or your horn will not work. Once the three bolts are removed, pull the bracket and springs off. There is a red wire clipped to the top of the bracket, remove this and pull the bracket free from the wheel and set it aside with the springs and bolts.

Next, remove the single T20 torx bolt that grounds the wheel harness to the wheel itself as shown below. Once this is done, remove the harness and it’s two white clips.

Here is the factory Sync harness removed. Set this harness and it’s buttons aside and repeat the process above on the Boss 302 wheel, removing it’s harness and buttons.

Below are the buttons that come on the Boss 302 wheel, remove these and it’s harness and replace them with the harness and buttons from your factory wheel with Sync.

To install the new buttons, first reinstall the trim pieces that surround the buttons then snap them into place.

Once both side’s buttons are in, reinstall the harness, connect the black ground wire and it’s T20 torx bolt and plug the harness into the new buttons. Ensure everything is plugged in and solid before moving on to the next step.

Next, reinstall the horn bracket, ensure that the three springs are seated and are properly installed before putting the three T27 bolts back. Again, if these springs are not installed properly your horn will not work right.

Tighten the three black torx bolts and replace the red wire that clips to the horn bracket.

Next, reinstall the airbag unit, plug the wires in to their corresponding colors (grey or black) and press the airbag into the wheel. Replace the two 8mm bolts on either side of the wheel as well as their cover caps and you’re done! Reconnect the battery and ensure all your buttons work properly. Enjoy your new wheel!

To view to the full wheel install guide, click HERE

To find this Boss 302 steering wheel in our online store, click here: Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel for 2010-2013 Mustangs

Installing An Axle-Back Exhaust On The 2011-2013 Ford Mustang GT

For our second modification on our new project car we decided to try out Borla’s Atak axle-back exhaust system. Borla is one of the biggest names in domestic performance exhaust and it’s easy to see why when looking at the build quality and fit & finish on their systems. Their sturdy, lightweight construction is superb, and more importantly, the sound they produce is nothing short of stellar. Being an axle-back system we were expecting a mild sound, however this system really screams. Not in a bad way though, it really suits the new 5.0 very well. There is no rasp whatsoever, just a deep, powerful tone that screams Mustang 5 liter power! Even better than the sound when you’re on the throttle is the gurgling and popping you get when decelerating in gear. This axle-back is perfect for someone looking for a nice grunt on throttle, an aggressive deceleration pop and gurgle and when you’re just cruising around it’s very composed. Nothing that will annoy your neighbors or Johnny Law. Now on to the install guide. It took us about 2 hours to do the install with the car on jack stands. Please note that this guide is based on the new 2013 Mustang and the process may slightly differ from 2011 and 2012 GTs.

Tools Required:

13mm Socket

Socket Extension

Ratcheting Socket Wrench

The first step is to jack up the rear of the car and secure the rear of the car on jack stands. Never work under a car with a floor jack, always be sure to use jack stands and shake the car to make sure it’s safe to work under it.

After the car is safely in the air, the first bolt to remove is the bolt on the exhaust clamp that holds on the rear mufflers. This clamp will be re-used on the new axle-back system so be sure not to damage it. Once you remove the clamp bolt, be sure to retain all the factory hardware and set it aside so it can be used when installing the clamp on the new system. The clamp is welded to the stock system by a small tab that we will remove when the muffler is off the car.

Next, remove the muffler hangar from just behind the rear bumper.

Next, there are two bolts holding the hangars at the rear of the muffler tot he underside of the car. This bracket must be removed from the car and re-used on the new system. The image below shows the location of the 13mm bolts that hold the bracket to the underside of the Mustang.

Be sure to support the muffler when removing this bracket, once it is remove the mufflers will drop from under the car. We learned this the hard way! The photo below shows the passenger side muffler removed with the hangar bracket attached.

Follow the same steps on the driver’s side muffler. Remove the clamp hardware first and then the hangar right behind the rear bumper.

The driver’s side muffler has a slightly different hangar design, instead of using two 13mm bolts it uses three. After removing the three bolts in the locations shown below, the muffler will drop from under the car.

Below is a comparison of the stock muffler next to Borla’s Atak axle-back muffler. Notice how much smaller the Borla muffler is and the larger tip. It’s a fantastic looking system that fills the rear opening better as well as saves weight over the stock mufflers.

Now that both mufflers have been removed, it’s time to transfer the necessary hardware to install the new system. First remove the factory clamps from the stock mufflers. They are welded on by thin metal tabs. We simply moved them back and forth (sort of like breaking a paper-clip) until they broke free from the tabs.

The next step is to remove the hangar brackets and install them on the new mufflers. Make sure you install them in the correct orientation or the exhaust won’t bolt up properly.

Now you’re ready to bolt the new system under the car. Start by slipping the new hangar into the hangar bushing behind the rear bumper. After that’s in, bolt the hangar bracket at the back of the muffler to the underside of the car just as you removed it. Once all the hangars are in, simply reinstall the factory clamp and tighten it to complete the installation. Make sure the clamp is on straight to avoid an exhaust leak.

Repeat these steps for both sides and you’re done! Now it’s time to enjoy the new sound! The photos below show how the Borla Atak mufflers look from behind. Great fit and finish for an aftermarket system.

In conclusion, we definitely recommend replacing the rear mufflers on the new 5.0. From the factory they already sound good, but in order to really give the car that signature Mustang sound you can’t go wrong with an axle-back system. Not only are they affordable, they don’t make the car too loud. If you’re looking for something low key that will still turn heads, look great, not void your warranty and please your ears, you can’t go wrong with the Borla Atak axle-back system for the 2011-2013 5.0. You can find this system on our store by clicking the following link: Borla Atak Axle-Back Exhaust System for 2011-2013 GT & Boss 302

Installing StangMods 99-04 Vinyl Tail Light Decals

Mustang Tail Light Decal Installation (Flamed, Outline & Honeycomb Kits)

Tools Required:

  • Squeeggee
  • Spray bottle
  • Liquid soap
  • Terry cloth or towel

Use rubbing alcohol to wash all dirt and road grime from the surface of your tail lights.

Mix your soapy water solution by adding a few drops of liquid soap to warm water in a spray bottle.

Generously spray the solution over the lens you are working on. Then remove the vinyl decal from the paper backing and apply it to the lens.

While the solution is still saturating the tail light lens, align the decal for a correct fitment and use your squeeggee to remove any excess solution from underneath the decal. Start from the center and move your way out.

Wait a few minutes, depending on the temperature, and then try to remove the transfer tape (top protective paper) from the vinyl. If the paper comes off and the vinyl stays in place, then you are good to go and you can move on to the next one. If the vinyl comes off, rather than staying on the car then use your squeege to apply the decal over the lens again.

Finish up by wiping off any excess solution from the body of your Stang.

Visit StangMods for more Mustang vinyl decals