Installing StangMods’ Mach 1 Grill Delete For 99-04 Mustangs

In this write-up we will go over the installation of our three piece Mach 1 Grille Delete Package. Our kit uses Ford OEM parts for great fit and finish as well as long term durability. This is one of our most popular sellers along with the Mach 1 lip spoiler. You can find our grill delete packages here: StangMods Grill Delete Packages

Tools Required:

  • 7MM Socket
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Flat Head Screwdriver

First start off by removing the four plastic push screws from the top portion of the stock grille. After removing these four screws, you will see two more push pin screws on each side. (Do not break these as they will be reused). The easiest method is to use a flat head screw driver to gently pry them up from underneath.

Now you are going to remove the four bolts holding the factory grill in place. They are a little awkward to get to so we recommend pulling the stock grill forward enough so you can reach down and remove the 7MM bolts with a socket.

Take the top center section and install it using the two push pins at the lower section of the grille delete.  Next, you will install the “U” shaped section. Reinstall it using the two push pins that were holding the stock grill on at the top. Make sure the four bottom posts are inserted into the bottom portion of the bumper. Remove the backing off of the 3M tape and push securely against the bumper to ensure a flush fit.

Finally, mount the running pony with the two new bolts using the phillips head screwdriver. You are now done with the installation.

Installing The Mach 1 Chin Spoiler On Your 1999-2004 Mustang

Our latest write-up goes over the process of installing a Mach 1 style chin spoiler on a 1999-2004 Mustang. StangMods carries high quality ABS plastic Mach 1 style lip spoilers with an OEM style textured finish. Not the glossy finish many aftermarket companies sell. Each of our chin spoiler kits comes included with push pin fasteners for a tight fit. This chin spoiler will give the front of your 99-04 Mustang a clean yet sporty look. You can find our chin spoilers for 99-04 here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Chin-Spoiler-for-99-04-p/00084.htm and the same chin spoiler for 96-98 Mustangs here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Chin-Spoiler-for-94-98-Mustangs-p/00542.htm

Tools Required:

  • Duct Tape
  • Push Pin Fasteners
  • Drill
  • 1/4″ Drill Bit

First start off by securing the vehicle on a level surface. Make sure the car is in gear and the parking brake is engaged.

Raise the front of the car so that you may have adequate space to work underneath the front bumper.

Mock fit the chin spoiler to the front bumper. It is easier if two people are handling the chin spoiler.

When you get the spoiler positioned to your liking, use duct tape to secure it to the bumper. (Tape will be removed later)

Drill ¼” holes into the bottom of the front bumper at each Chin Spoiler screw location.

Finally, insert pushpin fasteners into the holes on the bumper to secure the chin spoiler.

The last step is to remove the duct tape you used earlier to secure the chin spoiler to the bumper.

This completes the installation process.

 

Installing Bixenon HIDs in 99-04 Ford Mustangs

In this write-up we will be going over the installation of StangMods’ bixenon HID conversion kit for 1999-2004 Ford Mustangs. This kit will increase light output and offer a whiter light for added style.

Tools Required:

  • 8 MM or 5/16 Socket

First you’ll want to remove your stock headlamps from the vehicle. This process can be found through this link.  Once your headlamp lenses have been removed, lay your wiring harness along the battery area underneath the hood as shown below.

Run the longer end of the harness over to the passenger side area. It is not important to tuck it away neatlly at this moment.

Now move back over to the driver’s side. There are two O ring connections that need to be made. One is a power (red wire) and ground (black wire). Connect the red O ring terminal to the positive side of the battery. Next, connect the black O ring terminal to a good ground source. We chose the bolt on the inner fenderwell as shown below.

You’ll now be left with three connections to be made on the driver’s side. Tuck them down next to the battery and out through the opening behind the headlamp as shown below.

Route the passenger side harness as shown below.

You can connect the gound O ring for the passenger side to the bolt for the hood prop rod.

Now we will be preparing the bulb for installation. The bixenon bulb has a removable base that must be removed before installing it in the headlamp housing. Simply twist the base counter clockwise and it will be removed. Once the base is removed, place the bulb through the plastic locking collar as shown below.

You can now reattach the base and install the bulb in the housing as shown below.

The final step is to re-attach the plastic locking collar to secure the bixenon bulb in the housing as shown below.

There are three remaining connections to be made on the passenger side. They are all all a simple plug in procedure. Simply match up the corresponding plugs. The final step on the passenger side is to mount your ballast. We chose to mount it on the inner fender as shown below.

At this point, you can zip tie all of the passenger side connections in place. We chose to zip tie the harness directly underneath the radiator shroud as shown below.

 

Move over to the driver’s side to complete the installation. Plug the stock harness into the blue plug on the driver’s side as shown below. Keep in mind that the stock harness plug on the passenger side is not used.

Tuck the harness connection back through the opening as shown below. You can also tuck your driver’s side ballast back through this opening. It is not necessary to use mounting brackets to secure it as there is limited space for the ballast to move around.

Finally, complete your plug in connections as you did on the passenger side and tuck away the harness around the battery as shown below. Once you have the wires in their desired location, you can use zipties to secure them to existing OEM wires.

All thats left is to re-install your driver’s side headlamp and check the HIDs to ensure they come on.

You can find our selection of Mustang HID conversion kits here: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-HID-Lighting-s/61.htm

Replacing Your 05-09 Mustang’s Rear License Plate Bulb

In this writeup we go over the installation of a license plate bulb on any 2005-2009 Ford Mustang. StangMods carries not only standard halogen replacement bulbs but also high output LED bulbs in HID white and blue. You can find our selection of exterior bulbs here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Exterior-Bulbs-from-StangMods-com-s/106.htm

The only tool required for this install is a flat head screwdriver. This tool will be used to remove the fasteners holding the license plate bulb cover in place. First locate the two push pins holding the bulb cover in place. Using your flat head screwdriver, gently pull them out as shown below.

Once the pins are removed, grasp the cover as shown below and gently pull down. Do not use much force as the cover will be held to the vehicle with a wiring harness.

 

The stock bulb is attached to the grey harness. Give it a half turn counter-clockwise to release the harness and bulb from the cover.

To complete the installation, remove the stock bulb and re-install the new LED into the harness and then back into the cover. Finish up by re-attaching the two push pins you removed in step 1. Thats all there is to it. This rather simple mod really livens up an otherwise overlooked area of your ride!

You can purchase your LED license plate bulbs and replacement bulbs from StangMods.com

Dual Beam Bixenon HID Install Guide for 10′-13′ Mustangs

If you have a 2010 to 2012 Mustang that lacks the factory HID option you can add your own HIDs that look and perform a lot like the factory offering for a fraction of the price. In this how-to we will be installing the StangMods Dual Beam Bixenon HID Headlights in color temperature 6000K. Before we get into the actual instructions, we want to point out that these headlights are tinted and the tint will change the light output. If yours are not tinted the finished product will be brighter. Let’s get on with the install!

The first thing you need to do is pop the hood and get some light on your ride so you can see into the dark recesses under the hood. This car has an aftermarket radiator cover on it so yours may look different from this example. This is the first step though before going on to the next. Remove the battery cables from the battery since you are working with the cars electrical system. Take all safety precautions when working with any live electrical system.

Once you have the hood popped and enough light you start by removing the radiator cover so you can access the headlights under the hood. Removing the cover is easy and all you need to do is pull up on the black pushpins that lock the cover in place.

Once the radiator cover is removed, you can start by laying out the wiring harness that comes with the HID kit. The main power connector for the kit is designed to connect to the fuse block under the hood. Pop the cover on the fuse block and the large black nut where the power cable from the battery connects needs to be removed. You can then put the round ended power wire for the HID kit onto the stud, put the nut on, and tighten it back down. That is all you need to do for power to the HIDs.

The other wire you need to connect to get power for the HID headlights is the ground. We used the fender bolt near the passenger side headlight circled in red in the first photo below. We also routed the wire over to the other side of the car for the driver’s headlight at this point. Just lay the cable across the car being sure it won’t get pinched when you put the radiator cover back on later. You can see the black cable snaking across the radiator support in the second pic below, this pic was with the grill removed for the install of HID foglights.

Once you get the cable laid out. You will be able to see behind the headlights and as you can tell, it’s very tight back there. The orange plug you see here directly to the left of the windshield fluid reservoir is actually the blinker so don’t confuse it with the headlight which is a black and further down and more to the wheel well side of the car. If you find the fit is too tight for you to work you can remove the headlights to get better access, but that is not something we wanted to get into. To remove the factory headlight bulb from the headlight housing you give the large lock nut securing the bulb into the housing a twist and the bulb will pull out easily. The passenger side bulb comes out the same way and there is a bit more room on that side making it easier to see and work on the passenger side.

The factory headlight bulb has a grey end and a black lock nut, you can see what it looks like below with the top image being the factory set up and the image right underneath the StangMods HID bulb. You remove the actual connector from the factory bulb from the wiring harness of the car; you don’t just remove the factory bulb and plug the HID bulb in. The second picture below is the gray headlight harness plug with the factory bulb removed and the third pic is the HID bulb housing.  The StangMods HID kit has two pigtail wires running from the new HID bulb and housing that you will plug into the ballast. It’s important to note at this point that all of the ballasts are the same with this kit and you can just grab any one of them and use them for either side headlight or fog light. WARNING: DO NOT touch the glass surface of the HID bulb when installing. Doing so can cause premature bulb failure.

The pigtails that come off the HID bulb housing are keyed with connectors that will not allow you to hook them to the wrong plug on the ballast. As you can see in this shot, the passenger side headlight has a black and a red wire running from the HID bulb housing that connect to the white and blue wires running from the ballast. The HID pigtail will only plug into these two wires so you can’t get this wrong. The driver’s side connects the exact same way.

The wiring harness has a connector that connects to the ballast and while the ballast connection isn’t keyed, the connector on the ballast has a + and – mark and the wires that plug in are read for positive and black for negative making connection very simple. The factory headlight harness only plugs in on the passenger side to the HID harness. The plug for connection is easy to find and the factory headlight harness will only plug in one way. The driver side factory headlight harness isn’t needed. We taped ours up with electrical tape to keep it dry and wire tied it out of the way. If the headlights are all you are doing after you get all the connections made you can hide the ballasts and you are done.

Congratulations! You have installed your HID upgrade. Time to enjoy the increased light output and stylish color only HIDs can offer. Below is a photo of the kit working.

You can find our huge selection of HID conversion packages by clicking the following link: StangMods HID Lighting Store

Installing Webelectric’s 05′-09′ Mustang Plug-In Sequential Turn Signals

In this writeup we will go over the installation process of our very popular 2005-2009 Mustang Plug in Sequntial kit. Installation is very simple and requires only a couple of basic tools.

Tools Required:

  • 7/16″ Deep Socket
  • Flat head screw driver

First you’ll want to remove the black trim panel from inside the trunk area. Start by removing the twist off screw and push pin as circled below. Use the flat head screw driver to gently pry out the push pin. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.

Next use your flat head screw driver and remove the two push pins as shown below. Again, gently pry out the pins to avoid any damage.

Take your 7/16 deep socket and remove the three nuts located on the inside of the trunk as shown below. These nuts hold the tail lamp onto the vehicle.

Once you’ve removed all three nuts, you are ready to remove the tail lamp and harness from the vehicle. Depress the tab on the grey harness plug and separate the connectors.

Now, gently pull the tail lamp away from the body of the vehicle and work the harness grommet out of its location using the flat head screwdriver as shown below. Once its free, pull the entire tail lamp and harness completely out.

With the tail lamp out from the vehicle, place it on a flat work bench and begin removing the light sockets by turning them counter-clockwise. You must also remove the socket for the reverse lamp. Finally, the harness is attached to the tail lamp with a white push pin. Remove it gently and free the harness from the tail light.

At this point we are almost done with the first side. Pull the bulbs out of the OEM harness and plug them back into the sequential harness. Before you re-install the new sequential harness, it is important to note the correct position. Each socket is pre-labeled with the numbers 1,2,3. Socket 1 should be installed in the inner most lens, socket 2 in the middle lens, and socket 3 on the outermost lens.

The orientation for the driver’s side tail lamp is shown below:

The orientation for the passenger side tail lamp is shown below:

The new sequential harness contains the white push pin. Remember to place it back in to secure the harness to the tail lamp.

To finish up the installation, re-route the harness with the grey connector through the body of the vehicle and plug it back in. Then, secure the black grommet and re-install the tail lamp. Re-attach the (3) bolts holding the tail lamp to the vehicle. Once you have completed the installation on the opposite side, place the black trim piece in place and re-attach the plastic push pins to complete your installation.

Now you can dazzle everyone when you flick your signals on with this unique product from StangMods.com

How To Apply StangMods’ Vinyl Tail Light Tint Overlays

This write-up goes over the process of smoking out your tail lights with vinyl overlays. After attempting to use the “spray-on” tint, we found the vinyl overlays to be a much easier and better looking method to adding some style to the rear of your Mustang. Not only do vinyl overlays look better and offer a non-permanent way to tint your lights, our heavy-duty thick vinyl tint protects your lenses from scratches, rocks and clouding. It is important to note that the instructions below are the same regardless of which model year lenses you are applying the vinyl to.

Tools Required:

  • Spray bottle with warm water and three drops of liquid soap.
  • Squeege for installation (included with tints)
  • Windex or rubbing alcohol
  • Paper Towels

 

First off, you’ll want to thoroughly clean the surface of the lens in which you are applying the tint to. We recommend using rubbing alcohol or windex. Make sure each lens is clean and dry before attempting to install vinyl overlays.

Next, peel off the paper backing from the tint. Be careful not to touch the adhesive side with any foreign surface. Grease from your fingers or dust can cause bubbling.

Now generously spray the soapy/water solution onto the adhesive side of the tint film and the lens you are working on.

Once both surfaces are wet, align the tint overlay on the lens you are working on. If the film slides freely, there is too much solution. Wait for it to dry out for a few minutes.

Once you have the optimum amount of solution and the film is where you want it on the lens, use the provided squeege to smooth the film over the lens you are working on. Start at the center of the lens and move outwards with the squeege. The goal is to remove as much solution from underneath the film. If the tint becomes misaligned, you may peel it up and re-apply it.

Finish your installation by installing the remaining tint pieces for each lens and thats all there is to it! If you are looking for vinyl Mustang tail light tint, check out StangMods’ huge selection of vinyl overlays for Mustangs of all years by clicking the link below.

Vinyl Tint Overlays at StangMods.com