Dual Beam Bixenon HID Install Guide for 10′-13′ Mustangs

If you have a 2010 to 2012 Mustang that lacks the factory HID option you can add your own HIDs that look and perform a lot like the factory offering for a fraction of the price. In this how-to we will be installing the StangMods Dual Beam Bixenon HID Headlights in color temperature 6000K. Before we get into the actual instructions, we want to point out that these headlights are tinted and the tint will change the light output. If yours are not tinted the finished product will be brighter. Let’s get on with the install!

The first thing you need to do is pop the hood and get some light on your ride so you can see into the dark recesses under the hood. This car has an aftermarket radiator cover on it so yours may look different from this example. This is the first step though before going on to the next. Remove the battery cables from the battery since you are working with the cars electrical system. Take all safety precautions when working with any live electrical system.

Once you have the hood popped and enough light you start by removing the radiator cover so you can access the headlights under the hood. Removing the cover is easy and all you need to do is pull up on the black pushpins that lock the cover in place.

Once the radiator cover is removed, you can start by laying out the wiring harness that comes with the HID kit. The main power connector for the kit is designed to connect to the fuse block under the hood. Pop the cover on the fuse block and the large black nut where the power cable from the battery connects needs to be removed. You can then put the round ended power wire for the HID kit onto the stud, put the nut on, and tighten it back down. That is all you need to do for power to the HIDs.

The other wire you need to connect to get power for the HID headlights is the ground. We used the fender bolt near the passenger side headlight circled in red in the first photo below. We also routed the wire over to the other side of the car for the driver’s headlight at this point. Just lay the cable across the car being sure it won’t get pinched when you put the radiator cover back on later. You can see the black cable snaking across the radiator support in the second pic below, this pic was with the grill removed for the install of HID foglights.

Once you get the cable laid out. You will be able to see behind the headlights and as you can tell, it’s very tight back there. The orange plug you see here directly to the left of the windshield fluid reservoir is actually the blinker so don’t confuse it with the headlight which is a black and further down and more to the wheel well side of the car. If you find the fit is too tight for you to work you can remove the headlights to get better access, but that is not something we wanted to get into. To remove the factory headlight bulb from the headlight housing you give the large lock nut securing the bulb into the housing a twist and the bulb will pull out easily. The passenger side bulb comes out the same way and there is a bit more room on that side making it easier to see and work on the passenger side.

The factory headlight bulb has a grey end and a black lock nut, you can see what it looks like below with the top image being the factory set up and the image right underneath the StangMods HID bulb. You remove the actual connector from the factory bulb from the wiring harness of the car; you don’t just remove the factory bulb and plug the HID bulb in. The second picture below is the gray headlight harness plug with the factory bulb removed and the third pic is the HID bulb housing. ┬áThe StangMods HID kit has two pigtail wires running from the new HID bulb and housing that you will plug into the ballast. It’s important to note at this point that all of the ballasts are the same with this kit and you can just grab any one of them and use them for either side headlight or fog light. WARNING: DO NOT touch the glass surface of the HID bulb when installing. Doing so can cause premature bulb failure.

The pigtails that come off the HID bulb housing are keyed with connectors that will not allow you to hook them to the wrong plug on the ballast. As you can see in this shot, the passenger side headlight has a black and a red wire running from the HID bulb housing that connect to the white and blue wires running from the ballast. The HID pigtail will only plug into these two wires so you can’t get this wrong. The driver’s side connects the exact same way.

The wiring harness has a connector that connects to the ballast and while the ballast connection isn’t keyed, the connector on the ballast has a + and – mark and the wires that plug in are read for positive and black for negative making connection very simple. The factory headlight harness only plugs in on the passenger side to the HID harness. The plug for connection is easy to find and the factory headlight harness will only plug in one way. The driver side factory headlight harness isn’t needed. We taped ours up with electrical tape to keep it dry and wire tied it out of the way. If the headlights are all you are doing after you get all the connections made you can hide the ballasts and you are done.

Congratulations! You have installed your HID upgrade. Time to enjoy the increased light output and stylish color only HIDs can offer. Below is a photo of the kit working.

You can find our huge selection of HID conversion packages by clicking the following link: StangMods HID Lighting Store

Installing Webelectric’s 05′-09′ Mustang Plug-In Sequential Turn Signals

In this writeup we will go over the installation process of our very popular 2005-2009 Mustang Plug in Sequntial kit. Installation is very simple and requires only a couple of basic tools.

Tools Required:

  • 7/16″ Deep Socket
  • Flat head screw driver

First you’ll want to remove the black trim panel from inside the trunk area. Start by removing the twist off screw and push pin as circled below. Use the flat head screw driver to gently pry out the push pin. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.

Next use your flat head screw driver and remove the two push pins as shown below. Again, gently pry out the pins to avoid any damage.

Take your 7/16 deep socket and remove the three nuts located on the inside of the trunk as shown below. These nuts hold the tail lamp onto the vehicle.

Once you’ve removed all three nuts, you are ready to remove the tail lamp and harness from the vehicle. Depress the tab on the grey harness plug and separate the connectors.

Now, gently pull the tail lamp away from the body of the vehicle and work the harness grommet out of its location using the flat head screwdriver as shown below. Once its free, pull the entire tail lamp and harness completely out.

With the tail lamp out from the vehicle, place it on a flat work bench and begin removing the light sockets by turning them counter-clockwise. You must also remove the socket for the reverse lamp. Finally, the harness is attached to the tail lamp with a white push pin. Remove it gently and free the harness from the tail light.

At this point we are almost done with the first side. Pull the bulbs out of the OEM harness and plug them back into the sequential harness. Before you re-install the new sequential harness, it is important to note the correct position. Each socket is pre-labeled with the numbers 1,2,3. Socket 1 should be installed in the inner most lens, socket 2 in the middle lens, and socket 3 on the outermost lens.

The orientation for the driver’s side tail lamp is shown below:

The orientation for the passenger side tail lamp is shown below:

The new sequential harness contains the white push pin. Remember to place it back in to secure the harness to the tail lamp.

To finish up the installation, re-route the harness with the grey connector through the body of the vehicle and plug it back in. Then, secure the black grommet and re-install the tail lamp. Re-attach the (3) bolts holding the tail lamp to the vehicle. Once you have completed the installation on the opposite side, place the black trim piece in place and re-attach the plastic push pins to complete your installation.

Now you can dazzle everyone when you flick your signals on with this unique product from StangMods.com

Install Guide – 2010-2012 Mustang Front Side Markers

When it comes to changing the looks of your mustang, one of the first things that many people do is to start with the small things like lighting. One of the most popular looks with a mustang is to darken the lights around the car with tints or new lenses. Today I am going to install some new marker light lenses into the bumper of a 2011 Ford Mustang GT. The lenses I am changing are the ones on the lower font bumper of the car. Some people call these blinkers, but that is not what they are. The blinkers are built into the headlights on the 10-12 Mustangs and the lights on the bumper are simply running lights.

This installation will take you about an hour barring any issues and it makes things easier if you have someone to help you while you are under the car. You can do this install alone; the only part that helps to have a helper is so someone can hold the lens in the bumper while you put the little nuts back on the backside f the bumper. Let’s get to it!

1. The first thing you need to do is get the car up on ramps or jack stands. Never climb under the car with nothing other than a spare tire jack holding the car up. Once you get the car safely off the ground, move onto step 2.

2. You will need to remove the aero tray on the bottom of the car to expose the oil filter and the underside of the front bumper. If you have an 11-12, you only need to remove four screws on the rear of that tray to access the underside of the car. If you have a 2010, you will need to remove all the screws so you can remove the tray completely.

3. Once you remove that tray, you need to remove the bolt you see in this image between the front tire and the bottom edge of the fender well. You need to remove this bolt so you can pry the liner under the front bumper back enough to reach the turn signal lights.

4. Once you remove that bolt you can pry the fencer liner back enough to see the stock bumper light. It is the part surrounded by a red circle in the photo below. The light is held in with two nuts that were 9mm on the car I used, fasteners vary a bit sometimes so your mileage may vary. These screw off just like any other bolt even though they look like press-on fittings.

5. You need to remove the factory light socket from the light and you can take the bulb out at this point if you want.

6. Once you remove the factory lens, you are ready to slip the new Stangmods tinted or clear lens into the factory bumper hole. I have installed these lights on a 2010 and the factory hardware worked perfectly. On the 2011 GT you see here, the factory hardware was slightly too large to fit on with the wide part of the factory nut facing down as it was on the stock lenses. The fix is as simple as flipping that factory hardware over and tightening the bolts down. Don’t over tighten the bolts or you will break the tabs.

7. Once you have the factory hardware tightened up, you can insert your new amber bulbs, which allows you to stay street legal, and then reattach the factory wire. You will repeat the same process on the other side of the car and you are finished!

Install guide and photos by Shane G.