Installing TruCarbon’s Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel Spokes

In this write-up we will go over the simple installation of TruCarbon’s carbon fiber steering wheel trim. -Click Here To View In Our Store- The only tools you’ll need for this install are a deep 8mm socket & a flathead. Start by removing the two plastic covers on either side of the back of the steering wheel right before the steering column. A flathead screwdriver is the best way to pry out those covers. Under the covers you will see an 8mm bolt on either side. Remove both of these bolts and pull the airbag section from the wheel.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Once you’ve pulled the center of the wheel out, remove the two wires by squeezing the clips holding them to the airbag.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

After the airbag is free from the steering wheel pull the first trim piece off of the wheel. use a flathead or your nails to pull toward you, the trim pieces are held in by four posts.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Once the trim piece is free, unclip the buttons from the trim and insert them into the new carbon wheel spoke. Repeat the last steps for the other spoke & buttons.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

For the lower wheel spoke you’ll need a flathead to pry it off, be gentle & take your time.

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Reinstall the lower trim piece, the airbag, bolts, etc & you are done!

trufiber carbon fiber wheel install

Hawk Brake Pads – A Wide Range Of Compounds For All Types Of Drivers

Hawk is one of the biggest names in performance and OE replacement brake pads out there. Their superior quality to OE components makes them not only a smart buy for customers looking to replace their stock pads but also for those looking for more stopping power for spirited street driving or even track use. Hawk pads are used worldwide by weekend racers and professionals alike because of their great fitment, reliability & quality. Let’s take a look at the different pad compounds offered by Hawk & get a better understanding of each of their strengths.

Hawk Ceramic Brake Pads

Hawk’s Performance Ceramic Brake Pads are a perfect blend of improved performance with reduced brake dust and noise.  They provide consistent quiet, fast, smooth & clean stopping power for vehicles that are primarily driven on the streets. The Performance Ceramic pads feature a unique ceramic composite formulation specifically developed to meet the ultra-low dust and low noise attributes of Original Equipment ceramic brake pads while maintaining the high friction levels professional brake tuners have grown to expect from Hawk Performance. If you are looking for replacement pads that will give you more bite & less dust, look no further than Hawk’s Performance Ceramic pads.

Hawk HPS Brake Pads

The extremely popular Hawk HPS pads really offer the best of both worlds when it comes to brake pads. The HPS compound offers a significant improvement in braking power and feel while still retaining quiet operation and low dust. Hawk’s HPS Ferro-Carbon compound brake pads provide advanced braking characteristics to enhance the driving experience. This unique compound combines the safety and quality of aerospace design partnered with the braking technology of motorsports. If you tend to drive spiritedly on the streets and occasionally do heavy repeated braking or are looking for a big improvement over stock pads without the noise & dust associated with race pads, the HPS is the perfect pad for your Mustang.

Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads

The Hawk HP Plus is Hawk’s entry level racing brake pad. The HP Plus is perfect for autocrossers or occasional weekend track warriors looking for a no compromise pad that will work well with an upgraded rotor and other supporting brake mods. Because of the more aggressive compound, the HP Plus does create noise under some conditions however they are nowhere as noisy as a dedicated track pad. The HP Plus pads are usable on the street at a wider range of temperatures vs a more serious race compound. The Hawk Performance HP Plus Ferro-Carbon compound can take the heat at the track and get you home safely without having to change your brake pads in and out. This compound was designed for the serious street and autocross enthusiast.

Hawk Racing Blue Brake Pads

Hawk’s Racing Pads are no compromise all-out performance units designed to stand the heat, wear & abuse of repeated track use. Hawk offers a few lines of Racing Blue pads depending on how much torque or friction you are looking for depending on your application and use. These pads are not recommended for street use due to their noise levels and the fact that they require heat to produce high levels of friction required for racing. If your Mustang is built for the track and rarely sees the streets or you’re looking for a set of dedicated race pads to install for an event, any of the Racing Blue pads are sure to fit your needs.

You can find Hawk’s full line of Ford Mustang brake pads for all 1994 & up Mustangs on StangMods.com by clicking here: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Brake-Pads-from-StangMods-com-s/165.htm

Installing An Axle-Back Exhaust On The 2011-2013 Ford Mustang GT

For our second modification on our new project car we decided to try out Borla’s Atak axle-back exhaust system. Borla is one of the biggest names in domestic performance exhaust and it’s easy to see why when looking at the build quality and fit & finish on their systems. Their sturdy, lightweight construction is superb, and more importantly, the sound they produce is nothing short of stellar. Being an axle-back system we were expecting a mild sound, however this system really screams. Not in a bad way though, it really suits the new 5.0 very well. There is no rasp whatsoever, just a deep, powerful tone that screams Mustang 5 liter power! Even better than the sound when you’re on the throttle is the gurgling and popping you get when decelerating in gear. This axle-back is perfect for someone looking for a nice grunt on throttle, an aggressive deceleration pop and gurgle and when you’re just cruising around it’s very composed. Nothing that will annoy your neighbors or Johnny Law. Now on to the install guide. It took us about 2 hours to do the install with the car on jack stands. Please note that this guide is based on the new 2013 Mustang and the process may slightly differ from 2011 and 2012 GTs.

Tools Required:

13mm Socket

Socket Extension

Ratcheting Socket Wrench

The first step is to jack up the rear of the car and secure the rear of the car on jack stands. Never work under a car with a floor jack, always be sure to use jack stands and shake the car to make sure it’s safe to work under it.

After the car is safely in the air, the first bolt to remove is the bolt on the exhaust clamp that holds on the rear mufflers. This clamp will be re-used on the new axle-back system so be sure not to damage it. Once you remove the clamp bolt, be sure to retain all the factory hardware and set it aside so it can be used when installing the clamp on the new system. The clamp is welded to the stock system by a small tab that we will remove when the muffler is off the car.

Next, remove the muffler hangar from just behind the rear bumper.

Next, there are two bolts holding the hangars at the rear of the muffler tot he underside of the car. This bracket must be removed from the car and re-used on the new system. The image below shows the location of the 13mm bolts that hold the bracket to the underside of the Mustang.

Be sure to support the muffler when removing this bracket, once it is remove the mufflers will drop from under the car. We learned this the hard way! The photo below shows the passenger side muffler removed with the hangar bracket attached.

Follow the same steps on the driver’s side muffler. Remove the clamp hardware first and then the hangar right behind the rear bumper.

The driver’s side muffler has a slightly different hangar design, instead of using two 13mm bolts it uses three. After removing the three bolts in the locations shown below, the muffler will drop from under the car.

Below is a comparison of the stock muffler next to Borla’s Atak axle-back muffler. Notice how much smaller the Borla muffler is and the larger tip. It’s a fantastic looking system that fills the rear opening better as well as saves weight over the stock mufflers.

Now that both mufflers have been removed, it’s time to transfer the necessary hardware to install the new system. First remove the factory clamps from the stock mufflers. They are welded on by thin metal tabs. We simply moved them back and forth (sort of like breaking a paper-clip) until they broke free from the tabs.

The next step is to remove the hangar brackets and install them on the new mufflers. Make sure you install them in the correct orientation or the exhaust won’t bolt up properly.

Now you’re ready to bolt the new system under the car. Start by slipping the new hangar into the hangar bushing behind the rear bumper. After that’s in, bolt the hangar bracket at the back of the muffler to the underside of the car just as you removed it. Once all the hangars are in, simply reinstall the factory clamp and tighten it to complete the installation. Make sure the clamp is on straight to avoid an exhaust leak.

Repeat these steps for both sides and you’re done! Now it’s time to enjoy the new sound! The photos below show how the Borla Atak mufflers look from behind. Great fit and finish for an aftermarket system.

In conclusion, we definitely recommend replacing the rear mufflers on the new 5.0. From the factory they already sound good, but in order to really give the car that signature Mustang sound you can’t go wrong with an axle-back system. Not only are they affordable, they don’t make the car too loud. If you’re looking for something low key that will still turn heads, look great, not void your warranty and please your ears, you can’t go wrong with the Borla Atak axle-back system for the 2011-2013 5.0. You can find this system on our store by clicking the following link: Borla Atak Axle-Back Exhaust System for 2011-2013 GT & Boss 302

Installing A 3rd Brake Light Pulser In Your 2010-2013 Ford Mustang

The first mod we did on our new 2013 GT project car was Webelectric’s plug-in 3rd brake light pulser for 10′-13′ Ford Mustangs. This is an extremely easy and fast install for those of you who aren’t really comfortable taking things apart. Simply remove the trunk lid liner and plug the small harness in. Simple as that! You can find the part on our store by following this link:  Webelectric Brake Light Pulser for 10′-13′ Mustangs

Tools Needed:

Flathead screwdriver

First step is to remove the trunk lid’s felt liner. This liner is held on by a bunch of plastic clips, use the flathead to remove the clips gently as these will be used to replace the liner when the install finished.

After removing all the plastic clips, this is what you should see. Be sure to pull the emergency trunk release through the liner’s opening.

Next, remove the plug that powers the 3rd brake light.

Clip the pulser harness into the car’s plugs. You’re done!

Before reinstalling the inner trunk liner it’s a good idea to have someone put their foot on the brake to ensure the pulser is working properly. After you’re sure it’s working as intended, reinstall the trunk liner and the clips holding it on. Simple as that!

Below is an animation of how the pulser works. Please note that the light will only flash if you’ve been off the brakes for over 15 seconds as to not distract drivers in stop and go traffic or at a light.

Installing StangMods 99-04 Vinyl Tail Light Decals

Mustang Tail Light Decal Installation (Flamed, Outline & Honeycomb Kits)

Tools Required:

  • Squeeggee
  • Spray bottle
  • Liquid soap
  • Terry cloth or towel

Use rubbing alcohol to wash all dirt and road grime from the surface of your tail lights.

Mix your soapy water solution by adding a few drops of liquid soap to warm water in a spray bottle.

Generously spray the solution over the lens you are working on. Then remove the vinyl decal from the paper backing and apply it to the lens.

While the solution is still saturating the tail light lens, align the decal for a correct fitment and use your squeeggee to remove any excess solution from underneath the decal. Start from the center and move your way out.

Wait a few minutes, depending on the temperature, and then try to remove the transfer tape (top protective paper) from the vinyl. If the paper comes off and the vinyl stays in place, then you are good to go and you can move on to the next one. If the vinyl comes off, rather than staying on the car then use your squeege to apply the decal over the lens again.

Finish up by wiping off any excess solution from the body of your Stang.

Visit StangMods for more Mustang vinyl decals

Installing Vinyl Mustang Bumper Inserts on 99-04 Mustangs

Installing Mustang vinyl bumper inserts is probably one of the simplest modifications that can be done to your 99-04 Mustang. We go over the rather quick process in this installation write-up.

Tools Required:

  • Spray Bottle
  • A couple of drops of liquid soap
  • Q Tip
  • Hair dryer or heat gun (optional)

You first want to make sure the letter area on your rear bumper is completely clean and dry. This is absolutely important to ensure the letters adhere to the bumper properly. After this is done, you’ll want to mix a warm water and liquid soap solution and put it in a spray bottle. Any liquid soap will work.

Next, take your water/soap solution and spray down the letter area on your rear bumper. It is better to work with one letter at a time. Here we are starting with the M.

Once the area is wet, take the vinyl bumper letter and peel off the thicker paper backing as shown below.

Now, line up the vinyl letter with the indentation on the bumper. Take your time and be patient as you want to make sure the letters are lined up correctly.

Once the letter is lined up with the indentation in the bumper, take your q-tip and begin smoothing out the letter onto the bumper.  Work from the center towards the sides. Try to get as much as the liquid solution out from the letter.

It is important to note that if you are working in temperatures below 60 degrees, you may want to use a hair dryer or heat gun to help warm up the vinyl. This makes it easier to adhere to the bumper.

Once the letter is firmly in place, you can peel off the transfer tape. Start peeling the paper away slowly. If the vinyl letter stays in place on the bumper then you can remove the rest of the transfer tape.

Repeat the above process for the rest of the letters. Take your time with the “G” as it is more difficult to line up correctly. After your done, you’ll be left with this:

This write up has been sponsored by: StangMods.com

Installing Reverse Glow Gauges in 99-04 Ford Mustangs

The white face reverse glow gauges are a popular item for 94-09 Mustangs. Follow along as we install a set courtesy of Stack Racing.

Tools Required:

  • T15 Torx Head and Driver
  • Drill and metal bit
  • Soldering gun or Quick Splice Connectors
  • Thin Allen Wrench or Paper Clip

First you’ll want to disconnect your battery by removing the negative terminal first and then the positive side. It is a good idea to disconnect your battery whenever you are working on your Mustang’s electronics. Wait 15 minutes after disconnecting your battery before you being the install.

Remove the headlight knob to the left of the steering wheel. Pull the knob out in the “lights on” position and rotate the knob counter-clockwise until the slit is facing towards the driver’s side door. Inside the slit is a metal clip. Using a thin object (allen wrench works great), release the clip by gently lifting the clip outward towards the driver’s side door. While you do this, pull firmly on the headlight knob. This should release the knob and it should slide right off.

Now, remove the two screws holding the dash panel to the dash with the T15 torx bit and driver. Once removed, the entire panel can be taken out by firmly pulling straight out. This will release the clips and pins which also secure it in place. The torx screws are shown circled in red below.

We will be removing the gauge cluster from the dash. Begin by removing the (4) T15 torx screws which secure the cluster to the dash. Once you remove the screws, gently pull the cluster away but do not completely remove. There are two electrical plugs that need to be disconnected before you can remove the gauge cluster from the vehicle. The torx screws which need to be removed are circled in red below.

The two connectors which need to be unplugged are shown circled in red below.

Using the T15 torx bit and driver, remove the (8) Torx screws holding the clear lens onto the gauge cluster. Once all are removed, gently remove the clear lens.

Now we will begin installing the new white face gauges. The great thing about our design is you do not need to remove your needles for installation! Start with the fuel and temperature gauge section and slip the insert over the existing gauges as shown below. You can then move onto the other sections. Take your time and be careful with the needles so that they are not accidently broken.

Once the new white face gauges are in place, reassemble the gauge cluster unit by reinstalling the clear lens and replacing the (8) torx screws which held it on. Finally, the hard part is over! Next, we’ll be wiring up your new white face gauges.

We will be wiring the gauges to the headlight control unit. First, remove the headlight control unit by removing the two metric hex bolts shown circled below. Once removed, gently slide the unit out. The harness attached to the headlight control unit is shown below. You want to connect the red (positive) wire coming from the invertor included with your new gauges to the large gray wire that is located on the headlight control unit harness. Attach the black wire coming from the invertor to any good ground source. You can choose to drill a small hole in the chassis and attach the ground wire with an O ring terminal or you can tap into the black wire located on the headlight control unit harness (simplest way).

We are almost done at this point. Attach the clips coming from your new gauges to the clips on the new gauge harness. There maybe some extras but its not a big deal. This is a good time to test your electrical connections. You will need to plug the harnesses going into the gauge cluster back in and then reattach the positive and negative connections on your battery. Turn your lights on and hopefully your new white face gauges come to life!

Once everything checks out, you’ll finish the install by reversing the initial steps gone over at the beginning of this guide. Thats all there is to it! In under an hour, you can totally transform the cockpit of your Mustang.

Write up courtesy of StackRacing. You can purchase your white face reverse glow gauges at StangMods.com. The direct link to each specific model gauge is below:

1999-2004 Mustang GT Gauges

1999-2004 Mustang V6 Gauges

1996-1998 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1995 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1998 Mustang V6 Gauges