We recently released the first custom designed StangMods tee! It features a graffiti style StangMods logo on the front and a small 05-09 Mustang on the upper back in white. These are printed on high quality black Hanes tagless tees and range in Large through 2XL. Let us know what you think! You can find them Here On Our Store
We are in the process of adding BBK’s comprehensive line of Mustang performance parts to our online store. BBK has been in the Mustang industry for over 20 years and manufactures in-house many exhaust systems, intakes, throttle bodies, and much more. All their parts are manufactured in the USA and are tested on cars to ensure maximum performance potential. Affordable, high quality, and durable for long lasting use on street or race applications. Check out our line of BBK parts in our BBK category.
With so many Mustangs out there on the streets, it’s kinda rare to find one that’s put together really well. Every little mod counts, and when everything works together you get something special. In this case, it’s our friend Robb’s 97′ 3.8 SN95. Custom metallic green paint, anthracite Bullitt style wheels, and just the right amount of black bits here and there make for a really nice looking car.
It’s definitely not all show either, with a cold air intake, BBK throttle body, VAP intake spacer and upgraded radiator for extra cooling. The exhaust is a custom 2.5″ cat-back setup ending with Flowmaster’s Series 10 mufflers and 3.5″ Borla tips. Robb upgraded the car’s clutch and flywheel with SPEC units, as well as Ford 3.73 rear end gears and Motive bearings for a little more punch. The SCT X-Tune was dyno tuned by Excessive Motorsport, and the plugs, wires, and ignition were upgraded as well. On the block for install are a wealth of suspension goodies such as Ford Racing springs, KYB shocks and struts, and some Maximum Motorsports and Steeda bits to round it all out and get everything in spec and feeling tight. Brakes were upgraded with Powerslot rotors and ceramic pads for extra stopping force.
On the inside, an MGW short shifter cleans up the gear throws and a wealth of billett goodies adds from extra flare. White face gauges are a big improvement over the aged stock ones, and a tad of carbon fiber goes a long way when used sparingly.
Outside is where most of the mods come together. A chin spoiler, black mesh grills and black Cobra style headlamps with 6000k HIDs add a menacing look up front, while Boss style vinyl follows back to black rear bumper inserts and updated emblems. In the rear, custom tail light overlays add a unique look over the lights and trick sequential harnesses are there to command attention from other motorists. The lower valance was also blacked out to complete the car’s overall theme.
We are big fans of -clean- modified Stangs, you don’t need to spend tens of thousands of dollars to make a car look great or go fast, you just need an overall plan. Too often people will change things just for the sake of changing them, and you get something cluttered, something that doesn’t seem to “flow” properly. All the little things come together in the end, it’s really all in the small details. Great job Robb! Stay tuned for updated photos once the car is lowered on it’s new suspension setup!
With more and more cars on the road coming equipped with HID headlamps from the factory, older cars are really starting to show their age in terms of lighting technology. The foxbody Mustangs come standard with halogen bulbs and plastic housings that are prone to clouding over time, which is rather dangerous for night visibility. At StangMods we love lighting, so when we picked up our 93′ LX project car one of the first things we replaced were the headlamps. We opted for an OEM style 3-piece design. There are 1-piece lenses out there for the fox, but they don’t fit the same and look a bit tacky in our opinion. We wanted to keep the car looking as original as possible while improving light output and appearance. The image below shows the difference between the stock with halogen and the new lenses with our 4300k single-beam HID kit.
The install was rather simple, took about an hour and a half from start to finish. The most difficult part is removing the stock lenses, some of the nuts that hold the lenses in are hard to get to, but with patience and the right tools for the job it was well worth it. On each headlight, there are 7 nuts total. The image below with the lenses removes shows clearly where these mounting points are, circled in red. These nuts are 11mm, and we used both a socked and an open-end wrench, depending on the location.
These 7 nuts are located on the back of the headlights, the passenger side was a little easier to work on. On the drivers side there was one nut we had to access from the bottom through the front bumper, but again we stress that patience and an open-end 11mm wrench and socket will get the job done. We started with the passenger side corner lens, once you remove the two nuts holding the lens in place, rotate the bulb and free it from the lens.
The center lens, the actual headlight, has three 11mm nuts holding it in place. After removing these the lens slides out. Twist the bulb retaining ring and slide it back, the headlight bulb will come out easily. Make sure to keep this black locking ring, it is required and you will be re-using this on the new lens.
Next up remove the inner lens that houses the turn signal. We decided to replace the stock amber turn signal bulb with our 3157 chrome/amber bulbs. They look chrome when off but light up amber.
Back to the headlight lens, you will need to remove the three black clips holding the plastic bracket to the back of the headlight. These clips pop off and the bracket shown below will separate from the back of the stock housing. You will be using these three clips to fasten the stock bracket to the new lens, so be sure to keep these handy.
After removing the bracket, remove the rubber weather stripping shown below from the stock lens, as you will be using this on the new aftermarket lens. It is held on by clips on the side, it slides free easily.
Install the original headlight bracket onto the new lens and fasten it with the black metal clips. The rubber weather stripping also installs on the new lenses.
Install the new outer clear lens and side marker bulb.
After installing the new clear outer lens, find a safe and secure mounting place for the HID ballast behind the headlight, make sure none of the wires will be pinched. Feed the wires through the hole behind the headlight lens and connect the harness.
After the ballast is in place, install the HID bulb in the lens and feed the wiring through the locking ring. Install the locking ring and connect the bulb to the HID harness. Be sure to check power and make sure the HID bulb comes on before mounting the new headlamp lens to the car.
Last step is to reinstall the turn signal lens. After all the new lenses are installed, be sure to replace and tighten all 7 nuts behind the lights.
Repeat all the above steps on the other side. The install is simple, hardest part is getting the lenses out and locating the nuts holding the lenses in.
Below are some photos comparing the stock lenses to our aftermarket clear ones.
In celebration of Memorial Day weekend, StangMods is proud to offer up to $50 off our selection the entire holiday weekend! Grab the part you’ve been eying at big savings this weekend only. Sale will begin 12am on Friday the 27th and run through Monday, May 30th. To save, simply enter the qualifying coupon code during order checkout for instant savings!
When it comes to changing the looks of your mustang, one of the first things that many people do is to start with the small things like lighting. One of the most popular looks with a mustang is to darken the lights around the car with tints or new lenses. Today I am going to install some new marker light lenses into the bumper of a 2011 Ford Mustang GT. The lenses I am changing are the ones on the lower font bumper of the car. Some people call these blinkers, but that is not what they are. The blinkers are built into the headlights on the 10-12 Mustangs and the lights on the bumper are simply running lights.
This installation will take you about an hour barring any issues and it makes things easier if you have someone to help you while you are under the car. You can do this install alone; the only part that helps to have a helper is so someone can hold the lens in the bumper while you put the little nuts back on the backside f the bumper. Let’s get to it!
1. The first thing you need to do is get the car up on ramps or jack stands. Never climb under the car with nothing other than a spare tire jack holding the car up. Once you get the car safely off the ground, move onto step 2.
2. You will need to remove the aero tray on the bottom of the car to expose the oil filter and the underside of the front bumper. If you have an 11-12, you only need to remove four screws on the rear of that tray to access the underside of the car. If you have a 2010, you will need to remove all the screws so you can remove the tray completely.
3. Once you remove that tray, you need to remove the bolt you see in this image between the front tire and the bottom edge of the fender well. You need to remove this bolt so you can pry the liner under the front bumper back enough to reach the turn signal lights.
4. Once you remove that bolt you can pry the fencer liner back enough to see the stock bumper light. It is the part surrounded by a red circle in the photo below. The light is held in with two nuts that were 9mm on the car I used, fasteners vary a bit sometimes so your mileage may vary. These screw off just like any other bolt even though they look like press-on fittings.
5. You need to remove the factory light socket from the light and you can take the bulb out at this point if you want.
6. Once you remove the factory lens, you are ready to slip the new Stangmods tinted or clear lens into the factory bumper hole. I have installed these lights on a 2010 and the factory hardware worked perfectly. On the 2011 GT you see here, the factory hardware was slightly too large to fit on with the wide part of the factory nut facing down as it was on the stock lenses. The fix is as simple as flipping that factory hardware over and tightening the bolts down. Don’t over tighten the bolts or you will break the tabs.
7. Once you have the factory hardware tightened up, you can insert your new amber bulbs, which allows you to stay street legal, and then reattach the factory wire. You will repeat the same process on the other side of the car and you are finished!
Install guide and photos by Shane G.
Our friend Jason D. of Alberta, Canada sent us these photos of his 05′ GT sporting a Cervini body kit and a bunch of StangMods parts. He purchased a whole line of lighting upgrades for his ‘Stang including our chrome projector headlamp lenses, clear front and rear side markers and all bulbs to match! Under the hood Jason’s GT is sporting pretty much every replacement dress-up part available to further round out the look. The projector headlights and side markers really completed the theme and brought the car’s look together. We really enjoy seeing customer cars come together especially when we can be part of the process!