K&N Performance Filters – Installing One In Your Mustang

August 2, 2012 Leave a comment

Since adding K&N’s full line of intake products on our store – Click Here For Our Full Selection – we decided to give one of them a try on our 93 LX project car. We opted for a large filter unit that replaces the stock airbox and rubber piping. The install was very straight forward and took only a few hand tools. Install took no more than 45 minutes to complete.

K&N filters are special because of their high flow characteristics and their superior engine protection. By using an oiled element they are able to trap the most dirt and dust compared to a factory paper filter or a standard replacement filter. Not only do they flow and filter better, but they are completely re-usable and will last the life of your vehicle’s engine. By using K&N’s Filter Recharge Kit you can clean and re-oil your filter back to new. They recommend you clean your filter every 20,000 miles to ensure the best protection and performance. After several years and a hundred thousand miles, the K&N filters practically pay for themselves. You actually CAN save money while gaining performance, reliability & economy…who woulda thought? Now on to the install for foxbody Mustangs:
Tools Needed:

1/4″ Drill

12mm socket

11mm wrench

Flathead screwdriver

Start off by removing the two 12mm nuts that hold the factory airbox to the engine bay.

Next, remove the clamp below the MAF sensor using a flathead screwdriver.

Once the clamp is removed, pull the factory intake assembly out of the engine bay.

Once the airbox is removed, you will need to use your 1/4″ drill bit to slightly enlarge a hole for the K&N filter’s bracket mounting position.

Once the bracket bolt fits through the hole, fit the bracket in place and tighten it. You will have to reach under the bumper to tighten the nut from the bottom of the bolt.

Once the bracket is in place and is snug, it’s time to install the new filter. Get the filter in place and make sure the threads on the end of the filter fit inside the bracket. Tighten the 11mm nut on the end of the filter.

Next tighten the hose clamp at the filter opening to ensure there will be no air leakage.

That’s it! You’re done! Below are two photos comparing the factory intake and the new K&N filter.

Filed under Engine, Install Guides, Intake, Performance Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing A Billet Aluminum Shorty Antenna On Your 2010-2013 Mustang

July 20, 2012 Leave a comment

Even though they improved the look of the antennas on 2010 and up Mustangs by moving it to the rear quarter panel, it’s still too tall and looks kinda silly on the Mustang’s new sleek body. We have an affordable solution that will improve the look of the antenna while retaining radio signal and functionality. Our 4″ billet aluminum antennas come with all hardware and tools needed for the installation. Install takes about 20 minutes. View our shorty antennas here: Shorty Antennas at Stangmods.com
Tools Needed:

Pliers (optional)

Start off by unscrewing the factory antenna, it should twist off easily.

After removing the stock antenna, use the included tool to unscrew the piece that holds the stock base to the car. Ours was too tight to remove by hand but came loose easily with a set of pliers.

Once the metal part that holds the stock base is removed, the base should come right off. You will be re-using this part to mount the new billet base so make sure not to misplace it.

Reinstall the new billet base and screw the factory metal piece in using the included tool to secure the base of the new antenna. Do not over tighten this, just enough so the base doesn’t move around. Over tightening could damage your paint.

Once the base is secured, screw one end of the threaded pin into the antenna itself. Once this is tight, install the upper base piece and screw the antenna in through the base. Make sure this is tight enough that the upper part of the base does not spin freely.

That’s it, all done! The install is a breeze and the shorty antenna looks much better than the factory mast. Thanks for reading! You can find this part on our store in either powdercoated black like the one shown here, brushed aluminum or chrome. This antenna will fit all 2010-2013 Mustangs.

Filed under Install Guides, New Parts, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , ,

Changing Out Your 2013 Mustang’s Hood Vents

July 17, 2012 2 Comments

One of the most exciting changes on the new 2013 Mustang line are the new hood vents that come standard on the GT & Boss 302 Mustangs. These fully functional vents allow the engine bay to run a bit cooler which in turn improve intake temps and ultimately improve power and efficiency. Plus, they look plain awesome. Changing the vents to black or any other color is a breeze since these vents are easily removed with a deep 8mm socket and by un-clipping them from the hood. Follow along below to see how it’s done in a few easy steps.

We sell the factory OEM Ford vents on our site unpainted, these are great for someone who wants to paint them a custom color themselves. You can find them here:
http://www.stangmods.com/2013-Mustang-OEM-Hood-Vents-sold-in-pairs-p/2303.htm

Tools Needed:

8mm deep socket

Ratcheting socket wrench

Start by removing all of the clips holding the under-hood insulation on. Leave the bottom row attached, as you just need to remove enough to get to the bolts and clips holding the vents on.

Next, remove the 8mm nuts on the bottom of each vent. On the passenger side, remove the plastic clip holding the washer fluid line in place.

Once the nuts are removed, squeeze the clips on either side of the vents and push upwards, use your other hand to pull gently from the top side of the hood to free the vents from the hood itself. Do not use too much force, patience is key here.

Once the vents are free of all their clips, they will easily come free of the hood. Reinstalling the new vents is just the reverse of the steps above. Make sure you get all the clips snug when installing the new vents and remember to reinstall the 8mm nuts on the bottom of the vents as well as the washer line on the passenger side vent.

Here are photos of the factory painted vents and the new vents we installed (factory unpainted). In the next few weeks we will be posting new vent finishes including matte black and carbon fiber. Stay tuned!

Filed under Aero Parts, Install Guides, New Parts, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , ,

Swapping Steering Wheel Buttons On 2010-2013 Mustangs

July 13, 2012 1 Comment

When installing a new performance steering wheel on your newer Mustang, you may need to retain some function on your factory wheel that your new wheel may not come with. For example, our project 2013 GT came with Sync, and our Boss 302 alcantara wheel didn’t have the correct buttons to retain this function on the new wheel. We decided to swap the buttons from the factory wheel on to the new Boss wheel, problem solved!

For this install you will need to remove wiring harnesses, remove the buttons from the steering wheels and swap them around. Doing this took about 30 minutes and a lot of patience. There are small parts and springs you must be careful not to lose track of.

Tools Needed:

Torx T27

Torx T20

Assuming you already have the airbag removed, (See this link for instructions on removing the airbag HERE) begin by removing the trim pieces surrounding the buttons on either side of the factory wheel. These trim parts are held on by plastic fasteners that seat in rubber behind the trim. Carefully pull them toward you with even pressure to ensure you don’t crack them. There are no clips or anything, just pull them with enough force and they will slowly come out. Once they are out, the buttons will come free.

Next, remove the tree T27 torx bolts that hold the horn bracket in place. This bracket has three springs on the backside of it, make sure you don’t lose these or your horn will not work. Once the three bolts are removed, pull the bracket and springs off. There is a red wire clipped to the top of the bracket, remove this and pull the bracket free from the wheel and set it aside with the springs and bolts.

Next, remove the single T20 torx bolt that grounds the wheel harness to the wheel itself as shown below. Once this is done, remove the harness and it’s two white clips.

Here is the factory Sync harness removed. Set this harness and it’s buttons aside and repeat the process above on the Boss 302 wheel, removing it’s harness and buttons.

Below are the buttons that come on the Boss 302 wheel, remove these and it’s harness and replace them with the harness and buttons from your factory wheel with Sync.

To install the new buttons, first reinstall the trim pieces that surround the buttons then snap them into place.

Once both side’s buttons are in, reinstall the harness, connect the black ground wire and it’s T20 torx bolt and plug the harness into the new buttons. Ensure everything is plugged in and solid before moving on to the next step.

Next, reinstall the horn bracket, ensure that the three springs are seated and are properly installed before putting the three T27 bolts back. Again, if these springs are not installed properly your horn will not work right.

Tighten the three black torx bolts and replace the red wire that clips to the horn bracket.

Next, reinstall the airbag unit, plug the wires in to their corresponding colors (grey or black) and press the airbag into the wheel. Replace the two 8mm bolts on either side of the wheel as well as their cover caps and you’re done! Reconnect the battery and ensure all your buttons work properly. Enjoy your new wheel!

To view to the full wheel install guide, click HERE

To find this Boss 302 steering wheel in our online store, click here: Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel for 2010-2013 Mustangs

Filed under Install Guides, New Parts, Performance Mods, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing The Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel In 2010-2013 Mustangs

July 13, 2012 4 Comments

If you are looking for a change from the factory cheap rubber or leatherette steering wheel we have your solution. For under $300 you can own a real Boss 302 steering wheel with the plush alcantara covering and install it in any 2010-2013 Mustang! This is a real Ford part, the same wheel you will find on all 302s that roll off the production line. The install is pretty straight forward and takes about an hour and a half, uses simple tools and will make your Mustang feel like a race car every time you put your hands on the wheel.

Tools Required:

24mm socket

8mm socket

Socket extension

Optional Tools (If swapping buttons)

Torx 20

Torx 27

Start by removing the negative terminal on your Mustang’s battery. Give the car 20 minutes to fully drain the charge to ensure it’s safe to remove the airbag from the car. It’s unlikely the airbag could deploy, but it’s one of those situations where it’s way better to be safe than sorry.

Next, remove the two caps covering the 8mm bolts that hold the airbag unit in place.

Remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the wheel using a socket and ratcheting wrench.

After removing both 8mm bolts, carefully and slowly pull the center airbag unit straight out, be careful not to tug on the airbag’s harness when removing it.

Disconnect the large black plug (steering wheel harness) next to the yellow airbag wire.

Next, remove the clips carefully on the back of the airbag unit itself. The plugs are color coded to match their clips, one grey and one black.

Set the airbag unit aside in a safe place. Now that everything is disconnected, you can remove the 24mm bolt in the center of the wheel that holds the old wheel in place.

Once this bolt is removed, the wheel will come off, be sure to thread the wiring through the wheel when removing it to ensure you don’t break any clips or wires.

Now that the wheel is removed, check out these comparison photos of the factory wheel vs the Boss 302 wheel.

If your Mustang is a 2013 or comes with sync, you can swap the buttons from your factory wheel onto the new alcantara wheel so you don’t lose any functionality. You will have to remove the buttons and the wiring harness from the old wheel and swap it to the new wheel. To view that write up, follow this link:

How To Swap Sync Buttons To Your New Boss 302 Steering Wheel

Now all that’s left is to reinstall the new wheel in the same manner you removed the factory one. Start by bolting the wheel in with the 24mm bolt. Ford says to torque this bolt to no more than 45ft lbs, do not over tighten this bolt or it could strip out. Make sure to line up the wiring harness plugs through the top hole and pull the wires through as shown below.

Plug in the main black plug for the wheel harness and put the airbag clips in their respectable plugs. It’s very important to ensure you put the grey clip in the grey plug and the black clip[ in the black plug.

After everything is hooked up wiring wise, carefully reinstall the airbag unit in the wheel. Make sure the unit is lined up with the side bolt holes and reinstall the two 8mm bolts on either side. After making sure the bolts are snug (don’t over tighten) replace the bolt cover caps and you’re ready to go!

Now it’s time to enjoy your new Boss steering wheel! Reconnect the battery once you’ve double-checked all the wiring and bolts. Make sure all your buttons are working properly. Enjoy!

To find this wheel for sale on our online store, click the following link: Boss 302 Alcantara Steering Wheel for 10-13 Ford Mustangs

Filed under Install Guides, New Parts, Performance Mods, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing A 3rd Brake Light Pulser In Your 2010-2013 Ford Mustang

July 5, 2012 Leave a comment

The first mod we did on our new 2013 GT project car was Webelectric’s plug-in 3rd brake light pulser for 10′-13′ Ford Mustangs. This is an extremely easy and fast install for those of you who aren’t really comfortable taking things apart. Simply remove the trunk lid liner and plug the small harness in. Simple as that! You can find the part on our store by following this link:  Webelectric Brake Light Pulser for 10′-13′ Mustangs

Tools Needed:

Flathead screwdriver

First step is to remove the trunk lid’s felt liner. This liner is held on by a bunch of plastic clips, use the flathead to remove the clips gently as these will be used to replace the liner when the install finished.

After removing all the plastic clips, this is what you should see. Be sure to pull the emergency trunk release through the liner’s opening.

Next, remove the plug that powers the 3rd brake light.

Clip the pulser harness into the car’s plugs. You’re done!

Before reinstalling the inner trunk liner it’s a good idea to have someone put their foot on the brake to ensure the pulser is working properly. After you’re sure it’s working as intended, reinstall the trunk liner and the clips holding it on. Simple as that!

Below is an animation of how the pulser works. Please note that the light will only flash if you’ve been off the brakes for over 15 seconds as to not distract drivers in stop and go traffic or at a light.

Filed under Install Guides, Lighting, New Parts, StangMods News, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , ,

Installing StangMods 99-04 Vinyl Tail Light Decals

June 5, 2012 Leave a comment

Mustang Tail Light Decal Installation (Flamed, Outline & Honeycomb Kits)

Tools Required:

  • Squeeggee
  • Spray bottle
  • Liquid soap
  • Terry cloth or towel

Use rubbing alcohol to wash all dirt and road grime from the surface of your tail lights.

Mix your soapy water solution by adding a few drops of liquid soap to warm water in a spray bottle.

Generously spray the solution over the lens you are working on. Then remove the vinyl decal from the paper backing and apply it to the lens.

While the solution is still saturating the tail light lens, align the decal for a correct fitment and use your squeeggee to remove any excess solution from underneath the decal. Start from the center and move your way out.

Wait a few minutes, depending on the temperature, and then try to remove the transfer tape (top protective paper) from the vinyl. If the paper comes off and the vinyl stays in place, then you are good to go and you can move on to the next one. If the vinyl comes off, rather than staying on the car then use your squeege to apply the decal over the lens again.

Finish up by wiping off any excess solution from the body of your Stang.

Visit StangMods for more Mustang vinyl decals

Filed under Install Guides, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing StangMods’ Vinyl Lower Bumper Insert for 99-04

June 5, 2012 Leave a comment

 

Mustang Vinyl Lower Rear Bumper Insert Installation

 Tools Required:

  • Squeeggee
  • Spray bottle
  • Liquid soap
  • Terry cloth or towel

First start off by making your soapy solution by combining three to four drops of dishwashing detergent with warm water

Next, you’ll want to thouroughly clean and prep the area for instalaltion. Use alcohol to clean any dirt or debris from the lower bumper area.

Once everything is nice and dry, you’ll now be ready for installation. Peel off the backing of the vinyl overlay. Be careful not to let it touch any surface other than the vehicle.

Spray the soapy solution over the entire lower bumper area.

Align the vinyl in place and use a squeegee to apply it to the vehicle.  Work from the center of the vinyl to the edges, slowly pushing any air bubbles and excess solution out from under the decal. It may take a few minutes until the vinyl begins to adhere to the vehicle.

Finish up by wiping off any excess solution from the body of your Stang.

Visit StangMods for more vinyl Mustang decals.

Filed under Install Guides, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , ,

Installing Vinyl Mustang Bumper Inserts on 99-04 Mustangs

May 31, 2012 Leave a comment

Installing Mustang vinyl bumper inserts is probably one of the simplest modifications that can be done to your 99-04 Mustang. We go over the rather quick process in this installation write-up.

Tools Required:

  • Spray Bottle
  • A couple of drops of liquid soap
  • Q Tip
  • Hair dryer or heat gun (optional)

You first want to make sure the letter area on your rear bumper is completely clean and dry. This is absolutely important to ensure the letters adhere to the bumper properly. After this is done, you’ll want to mix a warm water and liquid soap solution and put it in a spray bottle. Any liquid soap will work.

Next, take your water/soap solution and spray down the letter area on your rear bumper. It is better to work with one letter at a time. Here we are starting with the M.

Once the area is wet, take the vinyl bumper letter and peel off the thicker paper backing as shown below.

Now, line up the vinyl letter with the indentation on the bumper. Take your time and be patient as you want to make sure the letters are lined up correctly.

Once the letter is lined up with the indentation in the bumper, take your q-tip and begin smoothing out the letter onto the bumper.  Work from the center towards the sides. Try to get as much as the liquid solution out from the letter.

It is important to note that if you are working in temperatures below 60 degrees, you may want to use a hair dryer or heat gun to help warm up the vinyl. This makes it easier to adhere to the bumper.

Once the letter is firmly in place, you can peel off the transfer tape. Start peeling the paper away slowly. If the vinyl letter stays in place on the bumper then you can remove the rest of the transfer tape.

Repeat the above process for the rest of the letters. Take your time with the “G” as it is more difficult to line up correctly. After your done, you’ll be left with this:

This write up has been sponsored by: StangMods.com

Filed under Install Guides, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Installing Reverse Glow Gauges in 99-04 Ford Mustangs

May 15, 2012 Leave a comment

The white face reverse glow gauges are a popular item for 94-09 Mustangs. Follow along as we install a set courtesy of Stack Racing.

Tools Required:

  • T15 Torx Head and Driver
  • Drill and metal bit
  • Soldering gun or Quick Splice Connectors
  • Thin Allen Wrench or Paper Clip

First you’ll want to disconnect your battery by removing the negative terminal first and then the positive side. It is a good idea to disconnect your battery whenever you are working on your Mustang’s electronics. Wait 15 minutes after disconnecting your battery before you being the install.

Remove the headlight knob to the left of the steering wheel. Pull the knob out in the “lights on” position and rotate the knob counter-clockwise until the slit is facing towards the driver’s side door. Inside the slit is a metal clip. Using a thin object (allen wrench works great), release the clip by gently lifting the clip outward towards the driver’s side door. While you do this, pull firmly on the headlight knob. This should release the knob and it should slide right off.

Now, remove the two screws holding the dash panel to the dash with the T15 torx bit and driver. Once removed, the entire panel can be taken out by firmly pulling straight out. This will release the clips and pins which also secure it in place. The torx screws are shown circled in red below.

We will be removing the gauge cluster from the dash. Begin by removing the (4) T15 torx screws which secure the cluster to the dash. Once you remove the screws, gently pull the cluster away but do not completely remove. There are two electrical plugs that need to be disconnected before you can remove the gauge cluster from the vehicle. The torx screws which need to be removed are circled in red below.

The two connectors which need to be unplugged are shown circled in red below.

Using the T15 torx bit and driver, remove the (8) Torx screws holding the clear lens onto the gauge cluster. Once all are removed, gently remove the clear lens.

Now we will begin installing the new white face gauges. The great thing about our design is you do not need to remove your needles for installation! Start with the fuel and temperature gauge section and slip the insert over the existing gauges as shown below. You can then move onto the other sections. Take your time and be careful with the needles so that they are not accidently broken.

Once the new white face gauges are in place, reassemble the gauge cluster unit by reinstalling the clear lens and replacing the (8) torx screws which held it on. Finally, the hard part is over! Next, we’ll be wiring up your new white face gauges.

We will be wiring the gauges to the headlight control unit. First, remove the headlight control unit by removing the two metric hex bolts shown circled below. Once removed, gently slide the unit out. The harness attached to the headlight control unit is shown below. You want to connect the red (positive) wire coming from the invertor included with your new gauges to the large gray wire that is located on the headlight control unit harness. Attach the black wire coming from the invertor to any good ground source. You can choose to drill a small hole in the chassis and attach the ground wire with an O ring terminal or you can tap into the black wire located on the headlight control unit harness (simplest way).

We are almost done at this point. Attach the clips coming from your new gauges to the clips on the new gauge harness. There maybe some extras but its not a big deal. This is a good time to test your electrical connections. You will need to plug the harnesses going into the gauge cluster back in and then reattach the positive and negative connections on your battery. Turn your lights on and hopefully your new white face gauges come to life!

Once everything checks out, you’ll finish the install by reversing the initial steps gone over at the beginning of this guide. Thats all there is to it! In under an hour, you can totally transform the cockpit of your Mustang.

Write up courtesy of StackRacing. You can purchase your white face reverse glow gauges at StangMods.com. The direct link to each specific model gauge is below:

1999-2004 Mustang GT Gauges

1999-2004 Mustang V6 Gauges

1996-1998 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1995 Mustang GT Gauges

1994-1998 Mustang V6 Gauges

Filed under Install Guides, Lighting, Visual Mods Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , ,

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