New 2013 Mustang Lineup From The 2012 Washington D.C. Auto Show

This past weekend in the Nation’s Capitol the 2012 Washington D.C. Auto Show took place with a huge turnout from fans and enthusiasts alike, all eyes were on the newly refreshed 2013 Mustang line. Huge crowds, even the President of the United States was in attendance to welcome the next generation of Ford’s flagship pony car. With big styling changes and mechanical updates for the new year, the Mustang is on it’s way to the top of the affordable sports car playing field, kicking *** and taking names.

On display were all flavors of the 2013 Mustang including the GT, Boss 302 Laguna Seca and the much improved Shelby GT500 with it’s new 5.8L engine. The 2013 GT500 features the most powerful production V8 Ford has ever developed for a road legal car. Featuring over 650hp and a new 2.9L supercharger and Ford GT camshafts, the new Shelby motor is sure to crush any competition Detroit’s best can throw it’s way.

All 2013 Mustang models feature the new GT500 inspired front end, as well as new headlight and hood designs. Out back the 13′ Mustangs have a new gloss black deck lid panels, black tail lamps with LED lighting technology and sequential turn signals off the assembly line. Mechanically there are few changes on the Boss 302, GT and V6 models, however the Shelby GT500 is host to new go-fast mechanicals that put it way ahead of the other offerings from Detroit.

We had a chance to speak with an actual worker from the Mustang plant in Dearborne, he was clearly proud of what Ford has to offer in the new Mustangs and made a good point; even though the competition is offering independent rear suspension, the Mustang is still able to outperform with it’s tried-and-true solid rear axle. Imagine what will be possible one Ford offers the Mustang with IRS again. The competition may not be ready for that. Offering an affordable alternative to more expensive performance cars on the market has always been the Mustang’s claim to fame. Nothing can beat a Mustang for the money.

Since the re-introduction of the 5.0 in the Mustang, yet again America’s favorite pony car is on the top of it’s playing field. Even those looking for something a little more frugal find plenty of enjoyment in the updated V6 powerplant which now makes over 300hp. Being lighter than the Camaro gives the Mustang a huge advantage in terms of handling, ride quality and straight line performance as well as fuel economy. It seems like Ford really has a winning combination with the new Mustangs and we look forward to see what the next generation has to offer.

The new 2013 Mustangs really provide the whole package. Updated materials and premium standard offerings like HID headlamps, LED tail lamps and vented hoods on even the GT really make the car a huge bargain in the performance car market. One good comparison is BMW’s M3, a car that costs close to $70,000, is outperformed by the 5.0 GT Mustang. Looking at the spec sheets of both those cars you’d never be able to justify spending nearly $40,000 more on the BMW.

All in all the 2012 D.C. Auto Show was a great experience and Ford had a huge turnout of fans and enthusiasts trying to get a sneak peek at the new 2013 Mustangs. Ford definitely didn’t disappoint with a huge list of new standard features that really make the Mustang a bargain premium sports car. We look forward to seeing these new Stangs on the streets and can’t wait to see what the new Shelby GT500 is capable of on the track.

Replacing Your 05-09 Mustang’s Rear License Plate Bulb

In this writeup we go over the installation of a license plate bulb on any 2005-2009 Ford Mustang. StangMods carries not only standard halogen replacement bulbs but also high output LED bulbs in HID white and blue. You can find our selection of exterior bulbs here – http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-Exterior-Bulbs-from-StangMods-com-s/106.htm

The only tool required for this install is a flat head screwdriver. This tool will be used to remove the fasteners holding the license plate bulb cover in place. First locate the two push pins holding the bulb cover in place. Using your flat head screwdriver, gently pull them out as shown below.

Once the pins are removed, grasp the cover as shown below and gently pull down. Do not use much force as the cover will be held to the vehicle with a wiring harness.

 

The stock bulb is attached to the grey harness. Give it a half turn counter-clockwise to release the harness and bulb from the cover.

To complete the installation, remove the stock bulb and re-install the new LED into the harness and then back into the cover. Finish up by re-attaching the two push pins you removed in step 1. Thats all there is to it. This rather simple mod really livens up an otherwise overlooked area of your ride!

You can purchase your LED license plate bulbs and replacement bulbs from StangMods.com

Installing Webelectric’s 05′-09′ Mustang Plug-In Sequential Turn Signals

In this writeup we will go over the installation process of our very popular 2005-2009 Mustang Plug in Sequntial kit. Installation is very simple and requires only a couple of basic tools.

Tools Required:

  • 7/16″ Deep Socket
  • Flat head screw driver

First you’ll want to remove the black trim panel from inside the trunk area. Start by removing the twist off screw and push pin as circled below. Use the flat head screw driver to gently pry out the push pin. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.

Next use your flat head screw driver and remove the two push pins as shown below. Again, gently pry out the pins to avoid any damage.

Take your 7/16 deep socket and remove the three nuts located on the inside of the trunk as shown below. These nuts hold the tail lamp onto the vehicle.

Once you’ve removed all three nuts, you are ready to remove the tail lamp and harness from the vehicle. Depress the tab on the grey harness plug and separate the connectors.

Now, gently pull the tail lamp away from the body of the vehicle and work the harness grommet out of its location using the flat head screwdriver as shown below. Once its free, pull the entire tail lamp and harness completely out.

With the tail lamp out from the vehicle, place it on a flat work bench and begin removing the light sockets by turning them counter-clockwise. You must also remove the socket for the reverse lamp. Finally, the harness is attached to the tail lamp with a white push pin. Remove it gently and free the harness from the tail light.

At this point we are almost done with the first side. Pull the bulbs out of the OEM harness and plug them back into the sequential harness. Before you re-install the new sequential harness, it is important to note the correct position. Each socket is pre-labeled with the numbers 1,2,3. Socket 1 should be installed in the inner most lens, socket 2 in the middle lens, and socket 3 on the outermost lens.

The orientation for the driver’s side tail lamp is shown below:

The orientation for the passenger side tail lamp is shown below:

The new sequential harness contains the white push pin. Remember to place it back in to secure the harness to the tail lamp.

To finish up the installation, re-route the harness with the grey connector through the body of the vehicle and plug it back in. Then, secure the black grommet and re-install the tail lamp. Re-attach the (3) bolts holding the tail lamp to the vehicle. Once you have completed the installation on the opposite side, place the black trim piece in place and re-attach the plastic push pins to complete your installation.

Now you can dazzle everyone when you flick your signals on with this unique product from StangMods.com

How To Install MRT’s Mustang Hood Strut Kits

In this write-up we go over the installation process of MRT’s hood strut kit. The paper instructions provided with the kit are helpful, but the black and white pictures are difficult to decifer. While installation is fairly straightforward, it is important to take notice of the orientation of each bracket. The pictures in the write-up aim to make the whole process a little easier.

Tools Needed:

  • 10mm Socket Wrench

The first step is to remove the bolt on the fender using your 10MM socket. There are two bolts in the same vicinity. Remove only the bolt that is circled below.

Keep in mind that we are working on the passenger side of the vehicle. Also, you should work on only one side of the vehicle at a time. Take the small bracket labeled RH and install it where you removed the bolt in the previous step. The correct orientation of the bracket will have the ball pointing in towards the engine bay.

Now, we will be removing the bolt holding the hood onto the stock hood hinge. Again, there are two bolts in close quarters. Remove only the bulb that is shown circled below.

Next, loosen the bolt (DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETELY) directly beneath the one you just removed in the previous step. We have it pointed out in the picture below.

Here we show the bolt loosened just enough to prepare for the installation of another bracket.

Now take the longer bracket also labeled RH (since we are working on the passenger side) and slide the open end down under the bottom bolt that was loosened in the previous step. You’ll want to line up the bracket before bolting it in place. Ensure that the top hole on the bracket is lined up with the hole on the hinge.

Once everything is lined up, re-install the top bolt but do not overtighten. This will fully secure the new long bracket to your hood. Take note of the orientation of the long bracket. The ball should be facing outwards as shown below.

You are now 99% complete done with the passenger side and you can repeat the steps above for the driver side. Remember that you are installing the brackets correctly when the ball on the small bracket faces in towards the engine bay and the ball on the long bracket faces out away from the vehicle.

Once you have the driver’s side brackets in place, you will be installing the struts to complete the installation. Starting on either side, attach the thinner portion of the strut to the lower bracket. You simply have to snap the open end onto the ball. Then, lift up the hood with your hand so that you can attach the thicker end of the strut onto the hood hinge bracket as shown below. Again, you just have to snap the open end of the strut onto the ball. Repeat the process on the other side and you are done!

The MRT hood struts will not only do away with the ugly hood prop rod, but you will also gain valuable working space underneath the hood of your Stang! You can purchase your hood struts by following the link at:  http://www.stangmods.com/MRT-Hood-Strut-Kit-p/00654.htm

Installing Ford’s Locking Gas Cap for 94-09 Mustangs

In this write-up we go over the simple installation process of adding a locking gas cap to your 1994-2009 Ford Mustang. Protect your car from gas thieves and pranksters with this simple, inexpensive modification. This install is very simple and straight forward. The only tool needed is a pair of pliers, total install time is less than 15 minutes.

Begin the install process by removing the OEM gas cap which is held onto the fuel door with a push pin. Take your needle nose pliers and gently pull out the push pin as shown below.

Once you have the factory gas cap freed, simply unscrew the cap as you normally would. The new gas cap is attached to the fuel door in the same manner as the OEM one. Simply take the push pin and use your finger to re-insert it into the hole on the fuel door as shown below.

Once the push pin is in, put the gas cap on and turn it clockwise until you hear it lock and you are done! IMPORTANT: It’s a good idea to keep a spare key inside your car as well as one on your keychain so you’ll be able to unlock the cap when you get to the gas station.

Thank you for taking the time to view our blog. If you are in the market for a locking gas cap look no further than StangMods.com. Everything ships free and customer satisfaction is our highest priority. You can find our selection of Ford locking gas caps here: Locking Gas Caps for 94-09 Mustangs

Xenon High Intensity Discharge (HID) Tech Guide

In the world of automobiles, there are three main types of lighting used today; Halogen, Xenon (HID), and LED. Halogen is the most common and also the oldest and most tried technology available. Halogen bulbs are used in every aspect of daily life, not just on your car. Most household bulbs are Halogen, they are cheap to make and have been in use since the early 1900′s. Halogen bulbs consist of a metal filament that glows when electrical current is sent through it, and Halogen gas inside the bulb is used to help promote long life and durability.

Xenon High Intensity Discharge, or HID, is a newer technology with many benefits over a standard Halogen type bulb. Instead of using a metal filament that is prone to failure over long term use due to high heat, Xenon bulbs use Xenon gas to create light instead. A steady electrical current is sent through the gas causing it to ignite which gives you the brilliant white light we have come to love from Xenon. There are a few advantages to using Xenon over Halogen, one being the significantly longer life, another being a brighter white color vs. Halogen’s yellowish light. Xenon technology also uses less wattage than a Halogen bulb and therefore Xenon runs significantly cooler than it’s Halogen counterpart. This lower temperature reduces risk of fire and premature failure. The white light emitted by Xenon bulbs also better represent daylight and make nighttime driving easier on the eyes.

LED technology, or Light Emitting Diode, is the newest technology available to the automotive lighting world. These tiny bulbs come in many colors, sizes, and shapes. They use the least amount of power out of the three technologies and run cool by comparison. They also have the longest life of all the bulb types because there is no heat to cause component failure. The downside to LEDs is their brightness, they are rather dim by comparison, and in order to create a similar amount of light to that of a Xenon bulb, you would need dozens of the smaller LEDs.

So now that we know how they work and what the benefits are, it’s pretty easy to see why HID technology has really dominated the automotive market when it comes to headlamps. You get the brightest whitest light available in a package that outlasts Halogen and runs cooler. Another advantage to Xenon technology is the ability to offer different “Color Temperatures” with different kits for different applications to fine tune the perfect look for each and every customer.

Typically HID color temps range from 4300k all the way to 12,000k. Although you may assume a higher number means the light is brighter, it’s actually the exact opposite. A 12,000k HID bulb emits a blue almost purple light, however this blue light isn’t as effective when it comes to illuminating a night road. Many people assume that the higher the number, the brighter the light…this is incorrect. The higher the color temperature the less usable light you have to use. A 4300k tempurature will create a pure white light that peirces through the night, and is by far the best at lighting up a night road. The kelvin rating is for color, the output is measured in lumens. A 35W HID bulb outputs 3x the lumens that a 55W Halogen bulb would output. The image below shows the differences in color temps from 4300k to 12,000k.

If you are looking for an HID package that will not stand out too much and will offer better visibility without the blue tint, 4300k is the perfect temperature for you. This is a pure white light that is the closest to a Halogen bulb’s color output. 6000k is our most popular temperature as is adds a bit of stylish blue tint without reducing visibility. There is almost no difference in visibility between a 4300k HID and a 6000k HID. Once you get to 8000k and above you start losing a small amount usable light, but you get the stylish blue tint that many enthusiasts demand from their HID kits. No matter what you choose in terms of color temperature, it will almost certainly be an improvement over your stock Halogens. Not just in terms of light output, but in longevity as well.

Now that we’ve covered the technology and color temps, what about the hardware? Included with every HID kit are ballasts. The job of the ballasts is to regulate electric current through the Xenon gas within the HID bulb. Without the ballast, the current would vary and the light would flicker. Ballasts come in many shapes and sizes, and depending on the quality of the kit their materials will vary. Cheap kits use plastic ballasts that are prone to overheating and pose a fire risk. Quality ballasts are constructed of metal materials and will last significantly longer in the harsh environment of your engine bay.

Below are some customer images showing different color temperatures:

4300K

6000k

8000k

10,000k

For more information on StangMods HID kits, visit our store and view our HID selection at: http://www.stangmods.com/Mustang-HID-Lighting-s/61.htm – Here you will find kits for late model Mustangs as well as kits for Non-Mustang applications.